• Hi, I am the owner and main administrator of Styleforum. If you find the forum useful and fun, please help support it by buying through the posted links on the forum. Our main, very popular sales thread, where the latest and best sales are listed, are posted HERE

    Purchases made through some of our links earns a commission for the forum and allows us to do the work of maintaining and improving it. Finally, thanks for being a part of this community. We realize that there are many choices today on the internet, and we have all of you to thank for making Styleforum the foremost destination for discussions of menswear.
  • This site contains affiliate links for which Styleforum may be compensated.
  • STYLE. COMMUNITY. GREAT CLOTHING.

    Bored of counting likes on social networks? At Styleforum, you’ll find rousing discussions that go beyond strings of emojis.

    Click Here to join Styleforum's thousands of style enthusiasts today!

    Styleforum is supported in part by commission earning affiliate links sitewide. Please support us by using them. You may learn more here.

brandonboot

Distinguished Member
Joined
Feb 7, 2022
Messages
1,253
Reaction score
1,498
EFDCA288-B1E6-422C-862B-0D7659266D94.jpeg
0F2582E4-324D-44D1-AF1D-9CF39B3694FE.jpeg
7D5543F7-2BB7-4C75-93B1-0C4D3673B8F6.jpeg

Here’s the shell in my pair …. it would be located on the left boot in the last picture
 

Crizzlelovesyou

Distinguished Member
Joined
Sep 30, 2020
Messages
3,006
Reaction score
6,265

Crizzlelovesyou

Distinguished Member
Joined
Sep 30, 2020
Messages
3,006
Reaction score
6,265
I'm saying it's circular reasoning.
If it rolls: yes shell
If it creases: maybe shell;

If shell: maybe rolls
If no shell: yes crease
 

Ageless

Member
Joined
Nov 15, 2020
Messages
22
Reaction score
45
Skip Horween explains a lot about horsebutt and shell on Ashland leather's channel. Tanneries will only sell horsebutts that have small shells because the same, expensive process is applied to all shells (critical steps: removing the strip, and 2 shavings). It's more profitable to sell it as workshoebutt than a tiny shell and horsehide strip. Also, keep in mind that horserump is a butt + strip + belly cut and horsebutt is a butt + strip cut. The ratio of shell to no shell is very small on horserump cuts. I also just want shell in the vamp, I've been incredibly unlucky with Indonesian makers that cut the shell portions into the quarters and tongue.

Based on what I know from the video, I'm guessing the shell is in this region because I can see the horizontal lines from the skiving blade bouncing.
 

Attachments

  • InkedInkedPXL_20220516_180510235.MP.jpg
    InkedInkedPXL_20220516_180510235.MP.jpg
    431.6 KB · Views: 80

Crizzlelovesyou

Distinguished Member
Joined
Sep 30, 2020
Messages
3,006
Reaction score
6,265
Skip Horween explains a lot about horsebutt and shell on Ashland leather's channel. Tanneries will only sell horsebutts that have small shells because the same, expensive process is applied to all shells (critical steps: removing the strip, and 2 shavings). It's more profitable to sell it as workshoebutt than a tiny shell and horsehide strip. Also, keep in mind that horserump is a butt + strip + belly cut and horsebutt is a butt + strip cut. The ratio of shell to no shell is very small on horserump cuts. I also just want shell in the vamp, I've been incredibly unlucky with Indonesian makers that cut the shell portions into the quarters and tongue.

Based on what I know from the video, I'm guessing the shell is in this region because I can see the horizontal lines from the skiving blade bouncing.
Indonesian makers click for aesthetic and evenness of color and texture so its uncommon for them to click shell into the vamp.

Generally yes, smaller shell HB hides are made into workshoe butt or horserump, but not always nowadays. Maryam and Shinki are more known for and sell enough HB that we see larger shells being used for horsebutt. The horween workshoe butts I've seen at Tannery row are smaller shells, but allegedly the ones Viberg gets are regular sized as the production runs are large enough to warrant it.

The shell in that picture (of which I just brushed the boots made out of that exact hide last night lol) is the entire lighter portion. Thats the reverse side so the itch damage isn't viewable. I had the roughed up parts used for the heels, but they weren't that bad to begin with on that particular hide. Working with Nathan was an absolute treat because we selected a perfectly smooth piece for the toe caps, center cut of the shell portion for the vamps, grain for the quarters, and roughed up section for the heel counters. But also that hide became only 1 pair where Viberg or an ID maker would make 2 pairs, maybe 2 and a part of a 3rd even as it was pretty clean.
 

Attachments

  • 20220807_210300.jpg
    20220807_210300.jpg
    175.1 KB · Views: 94

ajd578

Distinguished Member
Joined
Jul 29, 2018
Messages
1,426
Reaction score
2,102
Indonesian makers click for aesthetic and evenness of color and texture so its uncommon for them to click shell into the vamp.

Generally yes, smaller shell HB hides are made into workshoe butt or horserump, but not always nowadays. Maryam and Shinki are more known for and sell enough HB that we see larger shells being used for horsebutt. The horween workshoe butts I've seen at Tannery row are smaller shells, but allegedly the ones Viberg gets are regular sized as the production runs are large enough to warrant it.

The shell in that picture (of which I just brushed the boots made out of that exact hide last night lol) is the entire lighter portion. Thats the reverse side so the itch damage isn't viewable. I had the roughed up parts used for the heels, but they weren't that bad to begin with on that particular hide. Working with Nathan was an absolute treat because we selected a perfectly smooth piece for the toe caps, center cut of the shell portion for the vamps, grain for the quarters, and roughed up section for the heel counters. But also that hide became only 1 pair where Viberg or an ID maker would make 2 pairs, maybe 2 and a part of a 3rd even as it was pretty clean.
How's the sizing on Nathan's boots, compared with 2020/2040? I had to take a rain check when I got off his wait list because I had just ordered the double Viberg MTO. Painful choice.
 

Crizzlelovesyou

Distinguished Member
Joined
Sep 30, 2020
Messages
3,006
Reaction score
6,265
How's the sizing on Nathan's boots, compared with 2020/2040?
The last is really similar to the Ostmo Moe, both actually start as the same last before each respectively modified it. I like a 43.5 in each, but the NF version is a touch longer toe wise and has less toe spring. The heel to ball on the 43.5 is really similar to a Viberg 9 heel to ball. Nathan modifies the last as needed to. I had the lateral side of the waist built up a couple mm to accomodate my fat midfeet lol
 

RossM

Senior Member
Joined
Feb 15, 2021
Messages
128
Reaction score
103
Indonesian makers click for aesthetic and evenness of color and texture so its uncommon for them to click shell into the vamp.

Generally yes, smaller shell HB hides are made into workshoe butt or horserump, but not always nowadays. Maryam and Shinki are more known for and sell enough HB that we see larger shells being used for horsebutt. The horween workshoe butts I've seen at Tannery row are smaller shells, but allegedly the ones Viberg gets are regular sized as the production runs are large enough to warrant it.

The shell in that picture (of which I just brushed the boots made out of that exact hide last night lol) is the entire lighter portion. Thats the reverse side so the itch damage isn't viewable. I had the roughed up parts used for the heels, but they weren't that bad to begin with on that particular hide. Working with Nathan was an absolute treat because we selected a perfectly smooth piece for the toe caps, center cut of the shell portion for the vamps, grain for the quarters, and roughed up section for the heel counters. But also that hide became only 1 pair where Viberg or an ID maker would make 2 pairs, maybe 2 and a part of a 3rd even as it was pretty clean.
That leather looks thick! Nice.
 

Crizzlelovesyou

Distinguished Member
Joined
Sep 30, 2020
Messages
3,006
Reaction score
6,265
That leather looks thick! Nice.
Thanks! Its the same as the waxed black HB viberg's run a few times, just in the asphalt color. I'm hoping they use this tannage more in the future as its one of my favorites
 

Featured Sponsor

How important is full vs half canvas to you for heavier sport jackets?

  • Definitely full canvas only

    Votes: 83 37.2%
  • Half canvas is fine

    Votes: 85 38.1%
  • Really don't care

    Votes: 23 10.3%
  • Depends on fabric

    Votes: 35 15.7%
  • Depends on price

    Votes: 36 16.1%

Forum statistics

Threads
506,335
Messages
10,588,179
Members
224,180
Latest member
sightcareclickhere
Top