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Crizzlelovesyou

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Crizzlelovesyou

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Crizzlelovesyou

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I'm saying it's circular reasoning.
If it rolls: yes shell
If it creases: maybe shell;

If shell: maybe rolls
If no shell: yes crease
 

Ageless

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Skip Horween explains a lot about horsebutt and shell on Ashland leather's channel. Tanneries will only sell horsebutts that have small shells because the same, expensive process is applied to all shells (critical steps: removing the strip, and 2 shavings). It's more profitable to sell it as workshoebutt than a tiny shell and horsehide strip. Also, keep in mind that horserump is a butt + strip + belly cut and horsebutt is a butt + strip cut. The ratio of shell to no shell is very small on horserump cuts. I also just want shell in the vamp, I've been incredibly unlucky with Indonesian makers that cut the shell portions into the quarters and tongue.

Based on what I know from the video, I'm guessing the shell is in this region because I can see the horizontal lines from the skiving blade bouncing.
 

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Crizzlelovesyou

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Skip Horween explains a lot about horsebutt and shell on Ashland leather's channel. Tanneries will only sell horsebutts that have small shells because the same, expensive process is applied to all shells (critical steps: removing the strip, and 2 shavings). It's more profitable to sell it as workshoebutt than a tiny shell and horsehide strip. Also, keep in mind that horserump is a butt + strip + belly cut and horsebutt is a butt + strip cut. The ratio of shell to no shell is very small on horserump cuts. I also just want shell in the vamp, I've been incredibly unlucky with Indonesian makers that cut the shell portions into the quarters and tongue.

Based on what I know from the video, I'm guessing the shell is in this region because I can see the horizontal lines from the skiving blade bouncing.
Indonesian makers click for aesthetic and evenness of color and texture so its uncommon for them to click shell into the vamp.

Generally yes, smaller shell HB hides are made into workshoe butt or horserump, but not always nowadays. Maryam and Shinki are more known for and sell enough HB that we see larger shells being used for horsebutt. The horween workshoe butts I've seen at Tannery row are smaller shells, but allegedly the ones Viberg gets are regular sized as the production runs are large enough to warrant it.

The shell in that picture (of which I just brushed the boots made out of that exact hide last night lol) is the entire lighter portion. Thats the reverse side so the itch damage isn't viewable. I had the roughed up parts used for the heels, but they weren't that bad to begin with on that particular hide. Working with Nathan was an absolute treat because we selected a perfectly smooth piece for the toe caps, center cut of the shell portion for the vamps, grain for the quarters, and roughed up section for the heel counters. But also that hide became only 1 pair where Viberg or an ID maker would make 2 pairs, maybe 2 and a part of a 3rd even as it was pretty clean.
 

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ajd578

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Indonesian makers click for aesthetic and evenness of color and texture so its uncommon for them to click shell into the vamp.

Generally yes, smaller shell HB hides are made into workshoe butt or horserump, but not always nowadays. Maryam and Shinki are more known for and sell enough HB that we see larger shells being used for horsebutt. The horween workshoe butts I've seen at Tannery row are smaller shells, but allegedly the ones Viberg gets are regular sized as the production runs are large enough to warrant it.

The shell in that picture (of which I just brushed the boots made out of that exact hide last night lol) is the entire lighter portion. Thats the reverse side so the itch damage isn't viewable. I had the roughed up parts used for the heels, but they weren't that bad to begin with on that particular hide. Working with Nathan was an absolute treat because we selected a perfectly smooth piece for the toe caps, center cut of the shell portion for the vamps, grain for the quarters, and roughed up section for the heel counters. But also that hide became only 1 pair where Viberg or an ID maker would make 2 pairs, maybe 2 and a part of a 3rd even as it was pretty clean.
How's the sizing on Nathan's boots, compared with 2020/2040? I had to take a rain check when I got off his wait list because I had just ordered the double Viberg MTO. Painful choice.
 

Crizzlelovesyou

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How's the sizing on Nathan's boots, compared with 2020/2040?
The last is really similar to the Ostmo Moe, both actually start as the same last before each respectively modified it. I like a 43.5 in each, but the NF version is a touch longer toe wise and has less toe spring. The heel to ball on the 43.5 is really similar to a Viberg 9 heel to ball. Nathan modifies the last as needed to. I had the lateral side of the waist built up a couple mm to accomodate my fat midfeet lol
 

RossM

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Indonesian makers click for aesthetic and evenness of color and texture so its uncommon for them to click shell into the vamp.

Generally yes, smaller shell HB hides are made into workshoe butt or horserump, but not always nowadays. Maryam and Shinki are more known for and sell enough HB that we see larger shells being used for horsebutt. The horween workshoe butts I've seen at Tannery row are smaller shells, but allegedly the ones Viberg gets are regular sized as the production runs are large enough to warrant it.

The shell in that picture (of which I just brushed the boots made out of that exact hide last night lol) is the entire lighter portion. Thats the reverse side so the itch damage isn't viewable. I had the roughed up parts used for the heels, but they weren't that bad to begin with on that particular hide. Working with Nathan was an absolute treat because we selected a perfectly smooth piece for the toe caps, center cut of the shell portion for the vamps, grain for the quarters, and roughed up section for the heel counters. But also that hide became only 1 pair where Viberg or an ID maker would make 2 pairs, maybe 2 and a part of a 3rd even as it was pretty clean.
That leather looks thick! Nice.
 

Crizzlelovesyou

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That leather looks thick! Nice.
Thanks! Its the same as the waxed black HB viberg's run a few times, just in the asphalt color. I'm hoping they use this tannage more in the future as its one of my favorites
 

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