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jischwar

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Yeah, all-black, unlined, horsebutt, 2040, unstructured was the dream. The rest were details that came from trying to drum up support for a stockist makeup (8 eyelets, and slightly more people wanted leather sole), or from Brett at the event (Shinki, French binding).
Sounds a lot like what S&S put out
 

ajd578

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Sounds a lot like what S&S put out
I reached out to Neil about the possibility of doing the makeup through S&S back in 2020, and it turned out they already had that similar pair in the works. They weren't all-black though (brown midsole and natural stitchdown thread), and were fully lined (which was the real deal breaker for me).
 

jischwar

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I reached out to Neil about the possibility of doing the makeup through S&S back in 2020, and it turned out they already had that similar pair in the works. They weren't all-black though (brown midsole and natural stitchdown thread), and were fully lined (which was the real deal breaker for me).
Ah, these i assume is what you are referring to?
 

Crizzlelovesyou

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Ridgeway on almost everything. Not a fan. I know I’m in the minority though.
I dont mind ridgeway, but they've been overusing it lately.
 

brandonboot

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Is it me or does Maryam horsebutt roll the best?
Well I’ve yet to see a non shell cordovan boot roll similarly to a fully broken in, worn shell boot. soo in my mind the shell is still king BUT…. Do they make Maryam horsebutt shell cordovan? I know some portions are shell if you hit the lottery with your pair but I mean 100% shell horsebutt?

now that might be checkmate.
 

Crizzlelovesyou

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Well I’ve yet to see a non shell cordovan boot roll similarly to a fully broken in, worn shell boot. soo in my mind the shell is still king BUT…. Do they make Maryam horsebutt shell cordovan? I know some portions are shell if you hit the lottery with your pair but I mean 100% shell horsebutt?

now that might be checkmate.
so 2 things:
1) horsebutt CAN roll, but creasing is the delamination of the separate cutaneous layers. Skins are multiple layers, shells are one layer. When the point of friction on horsebutt is the shell it is more likely to roll, but that top layer may eventually separate too a bit with wear.

2) you can click a boot entirely out of shell portions of a horsebutt. It would probably take 2 full hides and at that point you may as well just buy shell. Personally I want shell in the vamp only and no where else as the boot is less comfortable with shell in the quarters and wasted in the heel IMO/IME.

Is it me or does Maryam horsebutt roll the best?
Viberg seems to have a pretty good hit rate with maryam and shell portion in the vamps, but I'm still only 1 for 16 or so pairs of horsebutt to have perfect rolls, but that one pair is Maryam
 

brandonboot

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@Crizzlelovesyou but do they make horsebutt shell cordovan? out of my 2 pairs, the black waxed HB doesn’t have any shell. Taupes have shell in one boot only, but on the back of that boot. It’s probably in the back of the shaft/heel counter.

the picture is in the thread gallery it’s a decent chunk of shell I guess but you’re saying not in a ideal spot
 

Crizzlelovesyou

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@Crizzlelovesyou but do they make horsebutt shell cordovan? out of my 2 pairs, the black waxed HB doesn’t have any shell. Taupes have shell in one boot only, but on the back of that boot. It’s probably in the back of the shaft/heel counter.

the picture is in the thread gallery it’s a decent chunk of shell I guess but you’re saying not in a ideal spot
Maryam HB hides are BIG. So the shell portion can wind up anywhere.

20220102_095054.jpg


These are my only perfect roll pair (my newest Maryam is too new).

20220721_103934.jpg

Here are my own TPR which are kinda meh roll wise. Still a perfectly good boot.


Pursuing HB just for rolls is a fools errand honestly
 

ajd578

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Maryam HB hides are BIG. So the shell portion can wind up anywhere.

View attachment 1822649

These are my only perfect roll pair (my newest Maryam is too new).

View attachment 1822650
Here are my own TPR which are kinda meh roll wise. Still a perfectly good boot.


Pursuing HB just for rolls is a fools errand honestly
How do you know the vamps on the 2040 pair are from the shell portion?
 

Crizzlelovesyou

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