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smartbrother

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Oh

Oh nice you saved me a convo of being called 'dear' over and over. So is washed the no shell butt for Maryam then?
That's my understanding, yes. It's from the part circled in red.

To add to the discourse, here's what they said about the strip:

The strips are simply the part of the breech that we cut when we designate it to become shell cordovan. We cut the two bones and the strip is the remaining part. Many of our customers make belts with that.

To make boots my clients use the whole breech of the horse which we can make in different ways:

VACCHETTA (simple barrel-dyed article without finishing)

TPR (what you have already bought)

NUBUCK (barrel dyed without refining and sanded to make it become nubuck)

WAX (simple barrel dyed article with a wax finish)
 

smartbrother

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The italian cuts have always been different. They do a culatta cut, where horween does shell+strip. I believe they are now producing what is the equivalent of strip, but not called strip in that due to the increased shell production they are doing culatta cuts sans shell. I'll go poke Maryam and ask them about it in a bit. It just bugs me that they call me dear whenever I ask them something
Here's a pic of Maryam's strip. Not as tall as Horween's cut (which can be 8-10in tall), so not suitable for boots (Maryam's words)

68C87948-246B-46F0-B025-31B7E361B6B3.jpeg
 

ajd578

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Yeah all shell does, but that's because the subcutaneous layer isn't the same thickness throughout. I think any tannery producing shell is producing some form of north of cordovan cut, they just may call it horsehide instead of butt or have any number of various names.
I know that - heck all hide has varying thickness throughout. Splitting creates a product with uniform thickness.

It's conceivable to me that you could split the shell layer off the same way. I think Horween "shaves" the hide to get the shell, resulting in variable thickness matching the thickness of the shell layer.
 

Crizzlelovesyou

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I know that - heck all hide has varying thickness throughout. Splitting creates a product with uniform thickness.

It's conceivable to me that you could split the shell layer off the same way. I think Horween "shaves" the hide to get the shell, resulting in variable thickness matching the thickness of the shell layer.
I believe all shell is shaved like that. They just free the shell from the booty essentially.
 

honestpanda

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I was super looking forward to these being unlined but Kevin lied!😅

They are unstructured. 1 out of 2 ain't bad. First pair I have stamped with a width.

I wonder if it was a mix of lined and unlined, because the one on Miloh Shop’s Instagram page is definitely unlined (you can tell by the top band stitch)
 

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