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Vests and Odd Waistcoats with Belted Trousers - What do You Think?

The Louche V2

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In schooling myself in the classic "rules" of menswear, I came to understand that a vest or odd waistcoat should never be worn with belt-top trousers (rather, only with side-adjusted trousers or proper fish-back trousers and braces). Not only does a belt create a horizontal division that is directly at odds with the potentially elongating effect of a waistcoat, but an exposed buckle is also a hick-ish distraction. Yet I see men wearing three-piece suits and other vested ensembles with belts ALL the time -- not only here, but in classic movies and other contexts where good taste is otherwise on display.

What do you think?
 

avsmusic1

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Count me among those that are OK breaking this rule - especially with an odd waistcoat
 

JJ Katz

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I think everyone agrees it's not ideal.

I would say that if, for whatever reason, you have belt-loop trousers (in a suit) and want to wear an odd waistcoat with it at least do not wear a belt with it and make sure that the waistcoat covers the top of the trousers at all times.
 

jdp234

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Confused as to how anyone could tell if the waistcoat and trousers overlap properly other than potentially the lump from the buckle, which seems like you could work around it.

For example, if the waistcoat covers the trousers tops, no reason not to just get brace buttons put into the trousers.
 

avsmusic1

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I can certainly agree it’s not ideal on a suit and I generally wouldn’t wear an odd vest w/ a suit. However, I have a couple odd vests I’ll wear w/ other trousers and don’t exclusively wear them w/ braces. It’s an inherently more casual outfit though
 

BigBadBernard

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Waistcoats, except perhaps for a knitted waistcoat, shouldn’t be worn with belts. Whether the waistcoat is ‘odd’ or not is beside the point.

The waistcoat should have its bottom button undone - this leads to unsightly buckle visibility and makes one look like a farmer.
 

The Louche V2

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Confused as to how anyone could tell if the waistcoat and trousers overlap properly other than potentially the lump from the buckle, which seems like you could work around it.

For example, if the waistcoat covers the trousers tops, no reason not to just get brace buttons put into the trousers.
I think, though, that is almost never the case.
Isn’t the waistcoat cover the waist anyway, thereby making the belt indiscernible?
There simply isn’t much overlap between the waistcoat and the the trouser’s waist band, particular in front. I think most proper tailors would tell you that, if anything, waistcoats are almost always cut too long these days, owing to low-rise trousers. If the waistcoat and trousers are to be cut within classical proportions and taste, there simply isn’t enough slack to risk a belt.
 

avsmusic1

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My favorite jacket to wear with denim.

To a prior point I was trying to make on being ok with it in more casual looks - I personally like this mix (lifted from SC and denim thread) and take no issue with the belt. I'm not sure if the vest is a sweater here, but I've seen and worn similar combos with odd waistcoats in heavy textured fabric
 

useless_username

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This is actually interesting as I've thought about commissioning an MTM three-piece suit next year.

If I wear a suit with a belt 90 % of the time, but want a waistcoat for those special occasions, would it not make sense to have belt loops as well as buttons for braces? That way I could wear them with a belt when no waistcoat and with braces when wearing a waistcoat. The assumption here being that the waistcoat would cover the belt loops. Or would the empty belt loops inevitable show from underneath the waistcoat?

I'm not a huge fan of side adjusters, they just don't seem to provide enough room for adjustment (weight fluctuates, etc).
 

Betelgeuse

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To a prior point I was trying to make on being ok with it in more casual looks - I personally like this mix (lifted from SC and denim thread) and take no issue with the belt. I'm not sure if the vest is a sweater here, but I've seen and worn similar combos with odd waistcoats in heavy textured fabric
Thanks! To be honest I would like to cover the belt, the problem is that if I close the next button there will be a lot of pulling, that is because that vest is L and I should have bought it in XL and the hips of it are quite tight and I like to workout my legs hehe. Also, it's hard to get high rise trousers.

This is an example of how it looks with a normal suit. Then again, consider the buttoning issue I mentioned. But usually I strive for covering the waistband and I don't wear a belt with dress trousers. :laugh:

 

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