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Ventless 3 Pc Suit?

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by laxnate, Oct 17, 2006.

  1. laxnate

    laxnate Senior member

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    I took a 3 pc suit to Peppino today. Overall I was happy with the fitting, attention, Peppino(?) seemed like a nice, friendly talkative guy.

    The one thing that kind of threw me was that he seemed insistent on closing the center vent. Is it unusual/frowned upon to have a ventless 3 pc or is it just preference. I think the ventless jacket might be ok since I am short and slim (5'7", 130lbs) but I don't want to be walking around in something that is an obvious faux pas.

    Should I call Peppino tomorrow and ask that the vent be kept open?
     
  2. DocHolliday

    DocHolliday Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    He offered no explanation? I'd keep it open, personally.
     
  3. Edward Appleby

    Edward Appleby Senior member

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    Maybe I'm on ebay too much, but I tend to associate ventless with late-eighties, and not in a positive way.
     
  4. whoopee

    whoopee Senior member

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    I don't think it's frowned upon and personally would prefer it over centre. It's a matter of taste.
     
  5. laxnate

    laxnate Senior member

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    He said that it would hang better on me since the center vent was making it flare out at the bottom and since it was already big on me, it would be better if the vent was closed.
     
  6. DocHolliday

    DocHolliday Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Ah, I see. There's certainly no problem with closing it, if there are reasons to do so and you don't mind the look.
     
  7. Tomasso

    Tomasso Senior member

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    I tend to associate ventless with late-eighties, and not in a positive way.
    It seems that some people do, but nonetheless it is a classic look. The "North by Northwest"(1959) suit was ventless. In twenty years some people will say that rear vents were so 2000, but yet they will still be classic.
     
  8. Dragon

    Dragon Senior member

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    From what you described, it sounds like no vents are better for fit and overall looks.

    Also, no vents tend to be more formal than side or center vents. The ventless (more formal) look might be a better match for your 3 pc suit, since a 3pc tends to be more formal than regular 2 pc suit.
     
  9. lakewolf

    lakewolf Senior member

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    IMO, vents have to do with confort not fashion....

    The vents help you when sitting and when accessing your trouser pockets....

    So If you have a 3 pieces suit then you would be dressed indoors without the jacket, and also you could more freely have your jacket open at all times...

    So the vents are less needed.

    I do have an OTR ventless 3 pieces.... I have 2 bespoke 3 pieces, one in navy another in heavy herringbone tweed, when I had them made I asked for vents, because I could use the suits as a 2 pieces on ocassions, and for that I'd need the vents.
     
  10. LARon

    LARon Senior member

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    It seems that some people do, but nonetheless it is a classic look. The "North by Northwest"(1959) suit was ventless. In twenty years some people will say that rear vents were so 2000, but yet they will still be classic.

    It is a classic look. In fact, most of CG's suits were ventless; not just the two in "North by Northwest" (gray sharkskin and navy stripe) but also, most prominently, the double breasted glen plaid in "His Girl Friday" and "Suspicion" (a suit lover's dream).

    I'm a devout fan of the ventless look, and have two that are three piece, one of which (charcoal beadstripe single breasted w/peak lapel) I had made just this summer by Oxxford. Go for it.
     
  11. Manton

    Manton Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Most of Astaire's coats were ventless, too. In fact, most classic clothing from the 30s was ventless.

    There is absolutely nothing wrong with either a vented or a ventless 3-piece suit.
     
  12. zjpj83

    zjpj83 Senior member

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    Almost all of Hugh Laurie's (as Bertie Wooster) suits were ventless. All of David Suchet's were in Poirot. They both looked awesome.

    Peppino has closed vents for me and done a wonderful job.

    To my taste:

    two vents>no vents>single vent
     
  13. rssmsvc

    rssmsvc Senior member

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    In fact, most of CG's suits were ventless; not just the two in "North by Northwest" (gray sharkskin and navy stripe) but also
    Are you sure ? The reason I ask is that on pages 36-37 of the new CG book , it describes how he actually did not like ventless suits, and preferred the dual vents. Also, in the section of the book that describes or has a huge picture of North by Northwest it describes how he actually had the dual vents cut much higher and longer AND that he learned a trick from Mae West(sp) about having 2 versions of a suit made. One was made ventless for scenes where he would have to stand straight and one was vented for sitting scenes. Please check me on that, but I believe throughout the book it describes his "special look" of how he puts his hands in his pants and this looks terrible in a vented suit so he preferred dual vented highly cut side seams.
     
  14. LARon

    LARon Senior member

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    Are you sure ? The reason I ask is that on pages 36-37 of the new CG book , it describes how he actually did not like ventless suits, and preferred the dual vents. Also, in the section of the book that describes or has a huge picture of North by Northwest it describes how he actually had the dual vents cut much higher and longer AND that he learned a trick from Mae West(sp) about having 2 versions of a suit made. One was made ventless for scenes where he would have to stand straight and one was vented for sitting scenes.

    Please check me on that, but I believe throughout the book it describes his "special look" of how he puts his hands in his pants and this looks terrible in a vented suit so he preferred dual vented highly cut side seams.


    I'm pretty sure, but haven't seen the movie in quite a while, so I could be wrong.

    I do know that there was a chase seen in NbNW. I don't remember his jacket flapping open at the vents, as you'd expect if, in fact, it was vented.

    Yet another great movie for suit fans is Dial M for Murder, again featuring ventless jackets. Magnificent film.
     
  15. Tomasso

    Tomasso Senior member

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    North by Northwest it describes how he actually had the dual vents cut much higher and longer

    [​IMG]
     
  16. FLMountainMan

    FLMountainMan Senior member

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    G-d, I love this site....

    Where else can you see a serious, interesting (to me at least) debate about this?
     
  17. laxnate

    laxnate Senior member

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    Thanks to all for your input. I'm going to go ventless. I'll post pics and a review of my experience with Peppino after I pick it up.
     
  18. rssmsvc

    rssmsvc Senior member

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    [​IMG]

    In the book though he describes that CG had 2 suits made for different shots. When standing it was ventless, when sitting or doing his "signature" move it was double vented. It is discussed around page 36 in the book.
     
  19. rssmsvc

    rssmsvc Senior member

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    Actually page 39, next to the picture text from the CG book:
    "To futher improve the functionality of his suit jackets, Grant had his tailor lengthen the vents beyond their normal boundaries"

    Very interesting chapter in that book.
     
  20. LARon

    LARon Senior member

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    [​IMG]

    Buy that man a beer! Thanks Tomasso.
     

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