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Vass vs. Alfred Sargent "Handgrade"

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by alexmvargas, Jul 2, 2010.

  1. fritzl

    fritzl Senior member

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    Agreed, and that's really what matters most. I respect your opinion, even when my own tendencies lean towards the half sock.

    can't wear it for fit reasons. that's all what matters for my personal situation.

    though, that wasn't my point. agreed, that one has the tendencies to support the traditions and heritage of his region.
     
  2. fritzl

    fritzl Senior member

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    Both are great makers of shoes who work in the traditional styles of their respective geographic regions.

    exactly
     
  3. Edify Inc

    Edify Inc Well-Known Member

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    Singapore
    astute observation Edify. The AS inside leather is also twice as thick, and somewhat softer. I like a robust shoe, solid - or to quote another contributor 'not ballet pumps'

    By "inside leather", I assume you mean the leather insole under the sock lining? I would venture to say that it by all accounts could be softer and that may give the impression that it is thicker. However, and correct me if I am wrong, I believe that AS HGs are gemmed, as opposed to Vass whose welts are stitched to a leather holdfast. This leather holdfast alone would probably require a thicker insole by itself, I would say by at least 2mm. Note though that my numbers are not empirical.

    I love both brands and would kill to own as many as some of you guys do. They both have very distinct styles, construction, and finishing values. I would agree with a previous poster that this comparison is quite a moot endeavour.

    If anyone is interested, I prefer the AS simply because I am loving the finishing and overall sleeker look.
     
  4. RSS

    RSS Senior member

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    thanks for the chuckle.

    what's next? paprika and AS, just curious?

    Given the shoes I'm seeing from Austria & Hungary ... I could easily give up England. Thanks again Fritzl for letting be a recipient of Operation Paprika!
     
  5. fritzl

    fritzl Senior member

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    Given the shoes I'm seeing from Austria & Hungary ... I could easily give up England. Thanks again Fritzl for letting be a recipient of Operation Paprika!

    you're welcome.

    wear them in good health and thank you for supporting my cause.
     
  6. Pliny

    Pliny Senior member

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    By "inside leather", I assume you mean the leather insole under the sock lining? I would venture to say that it by all accounts could be softer and that may give the impression that it is thicker. However, and correct me if I am wrong, I believe that AS HGs are gemmed, as opposed to Vass whose welts are stitched to a leather holdfast. This leather holdfast alone would probably require a thicker insole by itself, I would say by at least 2mm. Note though that my numbers are not empirical..

    Yes the leather insole is thicker (and softer) but the lining too is thicker on the AS. I think u are right, the AS are 'gemmed', but I'm not convinced this is a real problem - more that the hand stitched welting of Vass is simply more consistent with the romance of having shoes made the same way they were a hundred years ago. Cusey describes gemming as "[a procedure where] a rib made of stiffened linen tape can be glued (gemmed) onto the insole. This sounds like a shoddy procedure unlikely to produce a quality shoe, but this is not the case. When done properly, the gemming is extremely secure and long-lived, and the linen rib can take as many reweltings as a cut-and-turned rib".
    Good enough for me.[​IMG]
     
  7. Xenon

    Xenon Senior member

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    By "inside leather", I assume you mean the leather insole under the sock lining? I would venture to say that it by all accounts could be softer and that may give the impression that it is thicker. However, and correct me if I am wrong, I believe that AS HGs are gemmed, as opposed to Vass whose welts are stitched to a leather holdfast. This leather holdfast alone would probably require a thicker insole by itself, I would say by at least 2mm. Note though that my numbers are not empirical.

    I love both brands and would kill to own as many as some of you guys do. They both have very distinct styles, construction, and finishing values. I would agree with a previous poster that this comparison is quite a moot endeavour.

    If anyone is interested, I prefer the AS simply because I am loving the finishing and overall sleeker look.


    In the Vass, is the holdfast carved out of the insole or is the insole edge cut and turned down?
    Why do I remeber reading somewhere that Vass used a slightly different form of hand welting from the traditional english approach? (can't find the thread now)
     

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