Vass Shoes

[Slickman]

What is the difference between the double and single sole? Double's thicker? Also is it possible to make the edges of the shoes closer to the leather? I know my shoes language isn't up to par, but would appreciate any help.

 

[gdl203]

You guessed correctly that double soles are thicker than single ones.

 

[voxsartoria]

Originally Posted by gdl203

You guessed correctly that double soles are thicker than single ones.

GDL, about how much thicker are the double?

Can you measure, please? I recall that you have several pairs.

Thank you.

- B

 

[JamesX]

Double Sole is a Single Sole + Mid Sole. It gives more cushion and you won't feel rough terrain as much.

The down side is that they are noticibly thicker than single soles. I avoid them on dress shoes because it looks odd to me. But I like them on boots.

Double Leather Sole

Single Leather Sole

 

[DWFII]

Originally Posted by voxsartoria

GDL, about how much thicker are the double? Can you measure, please? I recall that you have several pairs. Thank you. - B
I'm not him but it is usually more about the maker's sensibilities than any standard thickness. I've seen the second (mid) sole be 6 iron (1/8") and I've seen them be as heavy as 12 iron (1/4") ...or the same thickness as the outsole. I'm not entirely convinced that double soles offer any significant gain in wear...by the time you've worn a hole through the outsole the stitches are near worn through and the outsole will start coming loose. They do confer a big step up in rigidity and will keep the foot from feeling sharp stones ...or peas.

I don't like the looks of them...but that's personal preference. I think they make a shoe look clunky and inelegant. They will add weight--the shoe may end up half again heavier than if a single sole were used.

 

[bengal-stripe]

Originally Posted by voxsartoria

.......about how much thicker are the double?

Originally Posted by JamesX

Double Sole is a Single Sole + Mid Sole.

The mid-sole is not as thick as the outer sole: 3 - 4 mm, which is about 1/8” or slightly more. In England, traditionally the thickness of leather is measured in ‘irons’: 1 iron = 1/48 inch. In the States they measure the thickness of leather in ounces.

http://www.claytonleather.com/thicknesstable.htm

The standard thickness of a leather sole is ¼” (6 mm), add the welt with 2.5 mm, then you’ll have thickness of a single sole with 8.5 mm.
Double sole will be about 12.5 mm.

 

[voxsartoria]

Originally Posted by bengal-stripe

Double sole will be about 12.5 mm.

Damn. You just reminded me that I want one of these.

A chasse could be a good DWF project, now that I think about...


- B

 

[Slickman]

How bout a double to single sole taper? Is it possible to mix different parts from different models, for example the shoes here http://asuitablewardrobe.dynend.com/.../vass-usa.html, I would use the style to the left but add the ^ to the cap lining as seen in the shoe on the right.

 

[radicaldog]

Originally Posted by voxsartoria

Damn. You just reminded me that I want one of these.

A chasse could be a good DWF project, now that I think about... - B
Tried them on in their London shop. Very appealing shoe in many ways, but quite awkward to walk in. Extremely stiff, and even the sales guy said they won't really soften much at all.

 

[DWFII]

Originally Posted by bengal-stripe

The mid-sole is not as thick as the outer sole: 3 - 4 mm, which is about 1/8" or slightly more. In England, traditionally the thickness of leather is measured in "˜irons': 1 iron = 1/48 inch. In the States they measure the thickness of leather in ounces. http://www.claytonleather.com/thicknesstable.htm The standard thickness of a leather sole is ¼" (6 mm), add the welt with 2.5 mm, then you'll have thickness of a single sole with 8.5 mm. Double sole will be about 12.5 mm.
In the US, some leather, such as upper leather and saddle leather is measured in ounces. Outsoling, insoling, midsoling... even rubber products intended as outsoling or midsoling is measured in irons.

 

[DWFII]

Originally Posted by voxsartoria

A chasse could be a good DWF project, now that I think about... - B
You talking about me?! My wife and I do dance, albeit not well--ballroom, Latin, even some CW (going on 20 years now). And maybe that is indeed why I am not fond of shoes that make a person more heavy footed (tanglefooted?) than they might otherwise be.

 

[Michael Ay329]

Originally Posted by voxsartoria

Damn. You just reminded me that I want one of these.

A chasse could be a good DWF project, now that I think about...


- B

Aren't these triple soled???

But without the Goyser stitching...their proportions seem unusual

 

[Fishball]

Originally Posted by bengal-stripe

The mid-sole is not as thick as the outer sole: 3 - 4 mm, which is about 1/8” or slightly more. In England, traditionally the thickness of leather is measured in ‘irons’: 1 iron = 1/48 inch. In the States they measure the thickness of leather in ounces.

http://www.claytonleather.com/thicknesstable.htm

The standard thickness of a leather sole is ¼” (6 mm), add the welt with 2.5 mm, then you’ll have thickness of a single sole with 8.5 mm.
Double sole will be about 12.5 mm.

Is it little bit too thick, ¼” = 12 irons, I think the normal thickness is around 8-10 irons.

 

[DWFII]

Originally Posted by Fishball

Is it little bit too thick, ¼” = 12 irons, I think the normal thickness is around 8-10 irons.
Especially in commercial footwear, 10 irons may be the new standard. I see it more and more frequently. After all, it costs less to put on a 10 iron outsole than a 12 iron. (Outsoles may be measured in irons but it's still sold by the pound.) And although 8 iron outsoles would be even cheaper, I suspect it's a little thin for men's dress shoes.. But the old standard...probably still widely adhered to in the UK and certainly among most bespoke boot and shoemakers in the US...is 12 iron.

 

[RSS]

My measurements of Vass soles are 8mm and 10mm.