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Vass question - goyser and lasts?

JDelage

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Hi,

Could someone explain to me what goyser sewn means, and how it relates to Goodyear and Norvegian?

Also, I'm having difficulties understanding the various Vass lasts. U and F are clear enough, and I'd love some explanation on the other ones (Budapester, New Peter, Banana, etc).

Many thanks!

JD
 

MarcellHUN

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I can help you in technologies:

Goiser is almost the same, what you know the name "norwegian". So, practically there is no difference, what you will recognise as a customer. On the other hand goiser looks perfect on a Budapest last (and that is very-very comfortable) and Vass makes it good.
 

MarcellHUN

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Budapest is a traditional, very comfortable last - I make both oxford and derby on it, and a shoe style (only on this last): wingcut, full brogue derby.
 

imatlas

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Go through the photos on Vass' website, the different lasts and styles are well represented, including Budapesters with and without Goyser sewn welts. http://www.vass-cipo.hu/Eng/Modellek_01_Budapest.html
Someday I hope to order a custom pair of cigar cordovan budapesters with double soles and goyser sewing, possibly in yellow...someday.
 

voxsartoria

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Vass Alt Wien, Budapester last, Goyster stitched except at heel, city style:














- B
 

binge

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[whistles] When I have some shit that needs kicked, I know who to call...
 

forex

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Vox,
have you actually worn those yet? It would be interesting to see you wear them.
 

voxsartoria

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Originally Posted by binge
[whistles] When I have some shit that needs kicked, I know who to call...

Good for elephant shit.

- B
 

voxsartoria

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Originally Posted by forex
Vox,
have you actually worn those yet? It would be interesting to see you wear them.


Yes. I'm remiss taking WAYWRN pics...should be restarting shortly, so you may wish to gouge out your eyes now.


- B
 

imatlas

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dkzzzz

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What are those two shoes on the background, I think they are VASS but on which last?
 

voxsartoria

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Originally Posted by dkzzzz
What are those two shoes on the background, I think they are VASS but on which last?

Good eye. Antique cognac boxcalf F-last Italian oxford, with a double sole going to single at the waist.


- B
 

JDelage

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Back to the top. I now have a pair in on R last and a pair on the F last. Where would the other last (esp. Peter / New Peter) fit in the Vass continuum? Please add your comments for the other lasts:

- Budapester: Hi toe-box, probably very comfortable, definitely more country than city (based on the London standards)
- R last: Very Brit'. Rounded toe, but not too slick.
- F last: Also a rounded toe, but rather slicker. Probably a bit tighter than the R last for most people.
- U last: A chisel toe. Considered the hardest to fit because fairly tight. Very slick / hip.
- Peter: ???
- New Peter: ???
- 3636: ???
- Banana: ???
 

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