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Vanson/Styleforum/Thurston Bros slim fit Japanese double rider MTO

Discussion in 'Preorders, Group Made-to-order, trunk shows, and o' started by LA Guy, Apr 19, 2014.

  1. AeroleathersTB

    AeroleathersTB Senior member Affiliate Vendor

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    In our experience, only about 5% of all slimfit customers want to go slimmer than this...do we want to go slimmer? The Junya designs were slimmer...

    Also, with a design this slim, we really can't go longer in the body because the jacket will get hung up on the hips...
     
    Last edited: May 4, 2014
  2. Brian SD

    Brian SD Senior member

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    Well the jacket fits him really well with the exception of the shoulder area which is too big. For me personally I would need it to be slimmer. For reference I am taller than the model and 20 lbs lighter, so obviously if I put the same jacket on as him, it'd be too large (as most American wear is), and the jacket is a size small, isn't it? I am what is a typical 46 for designers who design skinny/slim clothing, like most Japanese designers including Junya (obviously not Yohji Yamamoto). I would be one of the 5%.

    You're definitely right about the length. It's perfect there and any longer and you wouldn't be able to zip it up correctly.

    What is the checked lining like on the Derby jacket? Is it like a thick flannel, or is it like a quilted rayon? We talked earlier about doing rayon sleeves with quilted body. Is this something that is going to be possible?
     
    Last edited: May 4, 2014
  3. LA Guy

    LA Guy Opposite Santa Staff Member Admin Moderator

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    I think that the hips are fine. In fact, the hips could be let out a slight bit. However, I do think that we could tighten up the upper and mid back. These jackets will never see the back of a motorcycle, and the extra space is therefore not necessary. That's my opinion, but I'll let others chine in with theirs. The primary function of this jacket will be to look good when someone is standing on the steps of store drinking a coffee and eating a bagel with lox.
     
    8 people like this.
  4. LA Guy

    LA Guy Opposite Santa Staff Member Admin Moderator

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    He is about the same size as you up top. He is a serious biker (edit: cyclist), so a lot his his weight is in his legs. As you know, weight is not distributed equally with other people. I am the same size as some dudes who are 15 lbs light than me, for this same reason. My legs are much larger than my upper body usually suggests (though, these days, it's catching up, and not always in the best ways).
     
    Last edited: May 4, 2014
  5. sinnedk

    sinnedk Senior member

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    The jacket looks good on this guy with a few minor tweaks it could be even better. Each individual jacket will be catered to our measurements right?
    what is the length? I am hoping >=25 at least
    I agree back can be tighter and hips maybe a bit looser. I worry that if this gets into japanese sizing that it will cut me out of the group buy.
     
    Last edited: May 4, 2014
  6. Brian SD

    Brian SD Senior member

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    True, if he has bulk in his lower body from biking, then that will skew the weight distribution quite a bit. Though even disregarding the difference in body size, I'd still want the jacket to be slimmer than it is in that photo. I think it could just do with being more close-fitting overall - narrow shoulders/upper back, slightly in at the waist, and as you said it could actually be let out a tad in the hip area. Looking at the last pic, it's quite tight around the hem, but go up a few inches to the middle back/waist area and there's quite a lot of excess that could be trimmed off.

    I mean it looks like it's meant for riding. With the way you hold your arms on a bike, you'd appreciate that V shape, where the tightest area is just above the belt, and the shoulders/upper back are nice and roomy. However as you said it'll likely be worn by Sartorialist photo-bombers, or while sitting around at cafe tables. You don't need all that extra leather just to stare at your cell phone and pass silent judgments on whichever hipsters you deem less cool than yourself who walk through the door.
     
    Last edited: May 4, 2014
  7. Vordhosbn1

    Vordhosbn1 Active Member

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    The junya analogue doesn't appear a million miles away. As said the mid back and shoulders are the main tweaking points, albeit by very little, the sleeves and lengths look good.
    [​IMG][​IMG]
     
  8. AeroleathersTB

    AeroleathersTB Senior member Affiliate Vendor

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    ^^^This guy needs a better helmet!

    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: May 4, 2014
    1 person likes this.
  9. canstyleace

    canstyleace Senior member

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    Based on this pic,
    [​IMG]
    I think all it needs is smaller shoulder width and smaller armholes, that should take care of the extra material in the upper back & upper arm area, maybe take it in slightly at the midsection/navel area too

    also idk why you guys are worried about it looking tight at the hem, isnt it going to have a 2-way front zip?
     
    Last edited: May 4, 2014
  10. Brian SD

    Brian SD Senior member

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    Not worried just wanna cover all angles so were completely satisfied.
     
  11. LA Guy

    LA Guy Opposite Santa Staff Member Admin Moderator

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    I would agree with taking material out of the back of the shoulders and the back. But the arm holes are really high. This dude is not at all big. Check that first picture, and look carefully to see how high the arm holes are. And he was wearing a tee. You take any more out of the armhole, and it will cut off dudes's circulation. Maybe we could slim the upper arm a bit as well, but unless you are an enemy of arms everywhere, don't tighten the arm hole any more.

    fwiw, though @Thurston Bros is not a fashion guy, I am, and have seen a lot of clothes from many designers. And the thing is already slim through most of the body, even by "fashion" standards.
     
    1 person likes this.
  12. AeroleathersTB

    AeroleathersTB Senior member Affiliate Vendor

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    I know you weren't too jazzed on the Firenze leather...should we go with the Z150 leather?

    We also need StyleForum.net members to come up with a "working list" of what they'd like to see...here's an example that we worked with on a pattern-variation from the Vanson Model C

    1) no belt, no belt loops, and no coin pocket on lower abdomen
    2) angled left forearm coin pocket, angled on forearm like it is on the VAJ-3 bicep
    3) 5-5.5 inch chest pocket with 7 inch handwarmer pockets; chest pocket angled like on Aero 1930s Half Belt
    4) no dropped back, back cut straight across
    5) leather toggles (like on VAJ-3) on all exterior pocket ring pulls
    6) no interior pockets
    7) black rayon liner
    8) Z150 leather
    9) nickel hardware
    10) please construct jacket with throat latch
    11) please construct jacket snap-on / snap-off black mouton fur collar
    12) double-ended main zipper
    13) standard Vanson label
    14) Ultra slimfit Japanese Fit with model C "action" back
    15) size Large for prototype

    It's always best to go off of an existing Vanson Model...the Vanson Model C or Highwayman are the base of most "rocker" designs...

    We know a lot of suggestions have already been put forth, but a short working list, like that above, is a tremendous help!
     
  13. Brian SD

    Brian SD Senior member

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    I trust your judgment on this. I would like to see the upper arms made slightly slimmer. I suspect that may be necessary for balance's sake with the other tweaks being made.
     
    1 person likes this.
  14. LA Guy

    LA Guy Opposite Santa Staff Member Admin Moderator

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    @Thurston Bros it would be great if you could show a photoshop (without the mouton collar) of the jacket envisioned. I think that it would give people a good idea of how the proposed jacket would look, even if the photoshop is fairly crude.

    And yeah, if I am going to "model" it, it needs to be a large. The medium would strangle me. As for the leather, yeah, let's go with the Z150 as the base leather. I suppose that the Firenze is not horrible, but it did not hold a candle to the waxed blue Horween steerhide that I got on my Aero. I suppose that it was going to be hard to beat that.

    For the liner, is it possible to do a tartan liner in the body, with black rayon sleeve lining?

    Cheers,

    Fok.
     
  15. sinnedk

    sinnedk Senior member

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    what about the above for the leather?
     
  16. LA Guy

    LA Guy Opposite Santa Staff Member Admin Moderator

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    Too expensive as the default option. It's over $400 for the leather alone. Might be viable if you are willing to pay for the additional material cost Plus the $50 upcharge.
     
  17. sinnedk

    sinnedk Senior member

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    and regarding that leather option....
    [​IMG]
     
  18. canstyleace

    canstyleace Senior member

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    does z150 = light comp, 2.5 oz, cxl hh ?
     
  19. Brian SD

    Brian SD Senior member

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    but we could request it individually, correct? I wouldn't mind paying up if it's truly top quality stuff.
     
  20. chobochobo

    chobochobo Senior member Moderator

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    LOL
     

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