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Value dressing and slim fits... possible?

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by forcetrainer, May 30, 2009.

  1. forcetrainer

    forcetrainer New Member

    Messages:
    2
    Joined:
    May 30, 2009
    First off let me say that these forums are great. I've been perusing around and can see that there's a lot of knowledge. I do have a few questions that I'm sure some of you folks on here will be able to help me with. I'll admit up from that while I own several suits I don't know a whole lot about them, especially when it comes to tailoring.

    Let me start off with my situation. I'm one of those federal agent types that is in a suit everyday but is also wearing a ridiculous amount of equipment around my waist (gun, radio, handcuffs, etc.). I've generally always worn Jos. A Bank suits because value-wise they're not bad. I know I can drop $1500 on a beautiful suit and be very happy, but that's just wasted money because my suits get used and abused like you wouldn't believe. If they last longer than a year it's more sheer luck than anything else.

    The main problem that I run into is with the fit. I'm 6'1", about 190, and normally wear a 42L or 44L jacket, measure about 34-35" in the waist, and wear a 16.5"/35" shirt. Normally I don't get my jackets tailored because they need to stay big to hide my gear, but pants is a while different story. With a 42L jacket I'm usually looking at 36" pants, so they get taken in. However, I wear my pants around my waist because I'm usually wearing 10+ lbs. of equipment and they'll wind up there at some point anyway. The tailor will usually take in the crotch as well but it always seems like my pants are just too bulky. They fit fine in the waist/hips, but from there on down I feel like I'm wearing MC Hammer pants. If I get a 44L jacket then the pants are 38" and I hear the magic word "recut."

    My main question is - is there a way to get the pants tailored so they have a slimmer fit or do I need to find another brand that generally cuts those clothes slimmer? I normally consider myself to be an average build, but in the world of suits it seems that I'm definitely not. I own several brands of athletic cut shirts and I find that many of those are still too baggy when I wear them. The most disappointing was my recent purchase of a few Jos. A Bank tailored fit shirts. The waist is a bit narrower but it seems like I'm swimming inside the shirt. The cheap, Van Heusen athletic fit shirts I bought fit much better.

    So that's my story. If anyone has any suggestions - better places/brands for slim fitting wear, dress shirts, tailoring suggestions, etc. - that would be great. My only requirement is that I need to stay relatively on the cheap. I know that makes things difficult, but it would be just wrong to subject an expensive suit to the type of abuse I put them through.

    Thanks all!
     
  2. SlamMan

    SlamMan Senior member

    Messages:
    406
    Joined:
    Mar 18, 2008
    Slimming down trousers shouldn't be a big deal for any good tailor. Take in one pair and see what your tailor can do. If you have a pair of pants you do like see if your tailor can come close to matching the thigh, knee and leg opening measurements of those pants.

    I've done several MTM shirts but one of the best values I've found was buying shirts at places like Nordstrom Rack. Go somewhere like that and just try on a bunch of shirts until you find a couple brands that fit nice off the rack. I picked up 5 shirts there a couple weeks ago all for 30 to 60 bucks each. Most were 40 and under and all were relatively trim cuts. Then I just take them to my tailor for a little more tweaking and I've got great fitting shirts for about 50 to 70 bucks each.

    If you have a shirt or get a couple shirts that you really like the way they fit you can then just have a Chinese MTM house like Jantzen copy those shirts for really cheap.
     
  3. JayJay

    JayJay Senior member

    Messages:
    24,364
    Joined:
    Jun 25, 2007
    First off let me say that these forums are great. I've been perusing around and can see that there's a lot of knowledge. I do have a few questions that I'm sure some of you folks on here will be able to help me with. I'll admit up from that while I own several suits I don't know a whole lot about them, especially when it comes to tailoring.

    Let me start off with my situation. I'm one of those federal agent types that is in a suit everyday but is also wearing a ridiculous amount of equipment around my waist (gun, radio, handcuffs, etc.). I've generally always worn Jos. A Bank suits because value-wise they're not bad. I know I can drop $1500 on a beautiful suit and be very happy, but that's just wasted money because my suits get used and abused like you wouldn't believe. If they last longer than a year it's more sheer luck than anything else.

    The main problem that I run into is with the fit. I'm 6'1", about 190, and normally wear a 42L or 44L jacket, measure about 34-35" in the waist, and wear a 16.5"/35" shirt. Normally I don't get my jackets tailored because they need to stay big to hide my gear, but pants is a while different story. With a 42L jacket I'm usually looking at 36" pants, so they get taken in. However, I wear my pants around my waist because I'm usually wearing 10+ lbs. of equipment and they'll wind up there at some point anyway. The tailor will usually take in the crotch as well but it always seems like my pants are just too bulky. They fit fine in the waist/hips, but from there on down I feel like I'm wearing MC Hammer pants. If I get a 44L jacket then the pants are 38" and I hear the magic word "recut."

    My main question is - is there a way to get the pants tailored so they have a slimmer fit or do I need to find another brand that generally cuts those clothes slimmer? I normally consider myself to be an average build, but in the world of suits it seems that I'm definitely not. I own several brands of athletic cut shirts and I find that many of those are still too baggy when I wear them. The most disappointing was my recent purchase of a few Jos. A Bank tailored fit shirts. The waist is a bit narrower but it seems like I'm swimming inside the shirt. The cheap, Van Heusen athletic fit shirts I bought fit much better.

    So that's my story. If anyone has any suggestions - better places/brands for slim fitting wear, dress shirts, tailoring suggestions, etc. - that would be great. My only requirement is that I need to stay relatively on the cheap. I know that makes things difficult, but it would be just wrong to subject an expensive suit to the type of abuse I put them through.

    Thanks all!


    Finding well fitting clothing at reasonable prices is easier than you think. The slim-fit shirt thread would be a good starting place for learning about different brands available. Perusing the forum will provide you with lots of options for all your clothing needs.
     
  4. forcetrainer

    forcetrainer New Member

    Messages:
    2
    Joined:
    May 30, 2009
    Great advice. I think I need to spend more time with a tailor to get what I really want.

    If you bring in a shirt to get it tailored what are you normally paying? It's helpful to have a good idea of price so I don't get shafted!
     
  5. CruzAzul

    CruzAzul Senior member

    Messages:
    1,581
    Joined:
    Jan 24, 2009
    Location:
    Harlem, NY
    I normally have my tailor slim my shirts by putting darts in the back. She charges me I think $12.
     

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