Using a local unkown tailor fo a bespoke suit

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by blackstone, Nov 9, 2011.

  1. blackstone

    blackstone Well-Known Member

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    i did think of this but would you recommend a test jacket over a test pair of trousers?
     


  2. Sanguis Mortuum

    Sanguis Mortuum Senior member

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    CMT = 'Cut, Make, Trim'. Which means you supply the tailor with fabric and he charges only for the labour and trimmings.
    PoW usual means Prince Of Wales, which is a type of check pattern. SC means Sportcoat.
    So he is suggesting that you buy a sportcoat length of Prince Of Wales checked fabric (though, for checking pattern matching, any type of check will be just as good) then ask the tailor to make it up into a sportcoat to see how good his work is.
     


  3. texas_jack

    texas_jack Senior member

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    Just be careful of getting him too much out of his house style. If he's been cutting the same suit for 40 years he may not be as adept at making a different style as either of you think.
     


  4. blackstone

    blackstone Well-Known Member

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    Thanks.

    Im actually after a PoW suit.

    I currently have a Armani Collezioni suit which is now far too big for me. would this work as to a cmt test?
     


  5. blackstone

    blackstone Well-Known Member

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    good point. i will keep that in mind!
     


  6. Pliny

    Pliny Senior member

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    yes- more art to a jacket
     


  7. blackstone

    blackstone Well-Known Member

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    thanks
     


  8. Sanguis Mortuum

    Sanguis Mortuum Senior member

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    No, you need a new length of uncut fabric.
     


  9. blackstone

    blackstone Well-Known Member

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    damn, so theres nothing i can do with that suit?
     


  10. texas_jack

    texas_jack Senior member

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    some guy on here cut up his suits and made baby clothes for his kid.
     


  11. blackstone

    blackstone Well-Known Member

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    Hahaha, not a bad idea. But after going back and speaking with him today, he did day that if our is way too big he might be able to do something with it. But I h
    adn't to go back in the new year as he is busy until then.

    Also, he charges about 1k usd for his services if I provide the material and the jacket by itself is 1.2k
     


  12. chet31

    chet31 Senior member

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    Perhaps start by asking him to make a shirt? Maybe 100 USD? If he kills it, then move on.
     


  13. koolhistorian

    koolhistorian Senior member

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    Frankly, 1000 dolars for Cut Make Trim (sorry for using the acronyms) is pretty steep for a country like Brasil, he looks like being a local star! Probably you can find at a lesser price, if not go for it. Take care about some Zegna fabrics (those with a lot of cashmere inside) because they are prone of piling - mostly inside legs. I would suggest a British fabric - better made. Take care and have a good interpreter (even if you can do a lot with gestures with a tailor). The questions are - how many fittings is he doing?; Are his suits canvassed or fused? Is he offering a trial jacket on the first fitting? Find a knowledgeable person who worked with that tailor to act as a guide to the process (given the fact that you are at your first commission). Also, dig a little bit more on other tailors, there can be others.


    There is no link between the making of a shirt and the making of a coat - in fact they are two different crafts - so you cannot judge a tailor's skill based on a shirt that was made in his workshop.
     


  14. blackstone

    blackstone Well-Known Member

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    i did ask and he does do them but he did give me a good contact so i will be getting some shirts too!
     


  15. blackstone

    blackstone Well-Known Member

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    the reason it appears so steep is down to a few factors. firstly the usd fx, secondly everything here costs about 3x what it would in the US/UK and lastly, we get compensated for this in our pay. hence, the cost in reals is 1800 whicha actually isnt that much for people working here. no worris about the acronyms as i need to learn.

    the reason i mentioned Zegna is that i dodnt know the other fabrics that were all british. any in particular that i should be looking out for?

    luckily my fiance is brasilian and speaks perfect english so there will be no problems with translations.
    and what do you mean by "offering a trial jacket!" i assume you dont mean a free jacket!!!

    i do remember that he has dormeuil though!
     
    Last edited: Nov 13, 2011


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