Using a local unkown tailor fo a bespoke suit

[blackstone]



IMO sounds worth a try. But recommend u go trial jacket only first. lesser initial outlay while u decide whether the relationship is working. add trews if it wrks.
what i did

i did think of this but would you recommend a test jacket over a test pair of trousers?

 

[Sanguis Mortuum]



Sorry, being very naive here but I dont understand the acromyns. whats cmt, pow, sc?

CMT = 'Cut, Make, Trim'. Which means you supply the tailor with fabric and he charges only for the labour and trimmings.
PoW usual means Prince Of Wales, which is a type of check pattern. SC means Sportcoat.
So he is suggesting that you buy a sportcoat length of Prince Of Wales checked fabric (though, for checking pattern matching, any type of check will be just as good) then ask the tailor to make it up into a sportcoat to see how good his work is.

 

[texas_jack]



after speaking with him, albeit in portuguese and my portuguese isnt good, i believe he will accomodate the style i want so im not so worried about that.

Just be careful of getting him too much out of his house style. If he's been cutting the same suit for 40 years he may not be as adept at making a different style as either of you think.

 

[blackstone]



CMT = 'Cut, Make, Trim'. Which means you supply the tailor with fabric and he charges only for the labour and trimmings.
PoW usual means Prince Of Wales, which is a type of check pattern. SC means Sportcoat.
So he is suggesting that you buy a sportcoat length of Prince Of Wales checked fabric (though, for checking pattern matching, any type of check will be just as good) then ask the tailor to make it up into a sportcoat to see how good his work is.

Thanks.

Im actually after a PoW suit.

I currently have a Armani Collezioni suit which is now far too big for me. would this work as to a cmt test?

 

[blackstone]



Just be careful of getting him too much out of his house style. If he's been cutting the same suit for 40 years he may not be as adept at making a different style as either of you think.

good point. i will keep that in mind!

 

[Pliny]



i did think of this but would you recommend a test jacket over a test pair of trousers?

yes- more art to a jacket

 

[blackstone]



yes- more art to a jacket

thanks

 

[Sanguis Mortuum]



I currently have a Armani Collezioni suit which is now far too big for me. would this work as to a cmt test?

No, you need a new length of uncut fabric.

 

[blackstone]

damn, so theres nothing i can do with that suit?

 

[texas_jack]



damn, so theres nothing i can do with that suit?

some guy on here cut up his suits and made baby clothes for his kid.

 

[blackstone]

Hahaha, not a bad idea. But after going back and speaking with him today, he did day that if our is way too big he might be able to do something with it. But I h
adn't to go back in the new year as he is busy until then.

Also, he charges about 1k usd for his services if I provide the material and the jacket by itself is 1.2k

 

[chet31]

Perhaps start by asking him to make a shirt? Maybe 100 USD? If he kills it, then move on.

 

[koolhistorian]



Hahaha, not a bad idea. But after going back and speaking with him today, he did day that if our is way too big he might be able to do something with it. But I h
adn't to go back in the new year as he is busy until then.
Also, he charges about 1k usd for his services if I provide the material and the jacket by itself is 1.2k

Frankly, 1000 dolars for Cut Make Trim (sorry for using the acronyms) is pretty steep for a country like Brasil, he looks like being a local star! Probably you can find at a lesser price, if not go for it. Take care about some Zegna fabrics (those with a lot of cashmere inside) because they are prone of piling - mostly inside legs. I would suggest a British fabric - better made. Take care and have a good interpreter (even if you can do a lot with gestures with a tailor). The questions are - how many fittings is he doing?; Are his suits canvassed or fused? Is he offering a trial jacket on the first fitting? Find a knowledgeable person who worked with that tailor to act as a guide to the process (given the fact that you are at your first commission). Also, dig a little bit more on other tailors, there can be others.

Perhaps start by asking him to make a shirt? Maybe 100 USD? If he kills it, then move on.

There is no link between the making of a shirt and the making of a coat - in fact they are two different crafts - so you cannot judge a tailor's skill based on a shirt that was made in his workshop.

 

[blackstone]



Perhaps start by asking him to make a shirt? Maybe 100 USD? If he kills it, then move on.

i did ask and he does do them but he did give me a good contact so i will be getting some shirts too!

 

[blackstone]



Frankly, 1000 dolars for Cut Make Trim (sorry for using the acronyms) is pretty steep for a country like Brasil, he looks like being a local star! Probably you can find at a lesser price, if not go for it. Take care about some Zegna fabrics (those with a lot of cashmere inside) because they are prone of piling - mostly inside legs. I would suggest a British fabric - better made. Take care and have a good interpreter (even if you can do a lot with gestures with a tailor). The questions are - how many fittings is he doing?; Are his suits canvassed or fused? Is he offering a trial jacket on the first fitting? Find a knowledgeable person who worked with that tailor to act as a guide to the process (given the fact that you are at your first commission). Also, dig a little bit more on other tailors, there can be others.
There is no link between the making of a shirt and the making of a coat - in fact they are two different crafts - so you cannot judge a tailor's skill based on a shirt that was made in his workshop.

the reason it appears so steep is down to a few factors. firstly the usd fx, secondly everything here costs about 3x what it would in the US/UK and lastly, we get compensated for this in our pay. hence, the cost in reals is 1800 whicha actually isnt that much for people working here. no worris about the acronyms as i need to learn.

the reason i mentioned Zegna is that i dodnt know the other fabrics that were all british. any in particular that i should be looking out for?

luckily my fiance is brasilian and speaks perfect english so there will be no problems with translations.
and what do you mean by "offering a trial jacket!" i assume you dont mean a free jacket!!!

i do remember that he has dormeuil though!