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Using a local unkown tailor fo a bespoke suit

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by blackstone, Nov 9, 2011.

  1. Pliny

    Pliny Senior member

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    yes- more art to a jacket
     
  2. blackstone

    blackstone Well-Known Member

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    thanks
     
  3. Sanguis Mortuum

    Sanguis Mortuum Senior member

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    No, you need a new length of uncut fabric.
     
  4. blackstone

    blackstone Well-Known Member

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    damn, so theres nothing i can do with that suit?
     
  5. texas_jack

    texas_jack Senior member

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    some guy on here cut up his suits and made baby clothes for his kid.
     
  6. blackstone

    blackstone Well-Known Member

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    Hahaha, not a bad idea. But after going back and speaking with him today, he did day that if our is way too big he might be able to do something with it. But I h
    adn't to go back in the new year as he is busy until then.

    Also, he charges about 1k usd for his services if I provide the material and the jacket by itself is 1.2k
     
  7. chet31

    chet31 Senior member

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    Perhaps start by asking him to make a shirt? Maybe 100 USD? If he kills it, then move on.
     
  8. koolhistorian

    koolhistorian Senior member

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    Frankly, 1000 dolars for Cut Make Trim (sorry for using the acronyms) is pretty steep for a country like Brasil, he looks like being a local star! Probably you can find at a lesser price, if not go for it. Take care about some Zegna fabrics (those with a lot of cashmere inside) because they are prone of piling - mostly inside legs. I would suggest a British fabric - better made. Take care and have a good interpreter (even if you can do a lot with gestures with a tailor). The questions are - how many fittings is he doing?; Are his suits canvassed or fused? Is he offering a trial jacket on the first fitting? Find a knowledgeable person who worked with that tailor to act as a guide to the process (given the fact that you are at your first commission). Also, dig a little bit more on other tailors, there can be others.


    There is no link between the making of a shirt and the making of a coat - in fact they are two different crafts - so you cannot judge a tailor's skill based on a shirt that was made in his workshop.
     
  9. blackstone

    blackstone Well-Known Member

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    i did ask and he does do them but he did give me a good contact so i will be getting some shirts too!
     
  10. blackstone

    blackstone Well-Known Member

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    the reason it appears so steep is down to a few factors. firstly the usd fx, secondly everything here costs about 3x what it would in the US/UK and lastly, we get compensated for this in our pay. hence, the cost in reals is 1800 whicha actually isnt that much for people working here. no worris about the acronyms as i need to learn.

    the reason i mentioned Zegna is that i dodnt know the other fabrics that were all british. any in particular that i should be looking out for?

    luckily my fiance is brasilian and speaks perfect english so there will be no problems with translations.
    and what do you mean by "offering a trial jacket!" i assume you dont mean a free jacket!!!

    i do remember that he has dormeuil though!
     
    Last edited: Nov 13, 2011
  11. koolhistorian

    koolhistorian Senior member

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    1. Trial jacket is a jacket made from cotton fabric that is made to test the pattern, not for wearing - just not to start cutting the real fabric.
    2. Good english fabric makers (or sellers) - Holland and Sherry, Dormeuil, H. Lesser, Harrissons, JJ Minnis - see the Unfunded Liabilities thread or the discussions on the Cutter and Tailor forum (separate from this). My advice is to go with a staple suit - Navy or Grey - keep it relatively simple and classic a 2 buttons, notch lapel, single button coat, just to see how it fits. Do not be shy with the tailor, say what you want and expect, work the details (that is the beauty of bespeaking a suit). Good luck!
     
  12. blackstone

    blackstone Well-Known Member

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    cheers

    I know he has Dormeuil and H. Lesser, i will have to confirm what else he has when i go back this week.

    i was thinking of a navy and definietly a 2 button and then if that looks good, i also want a PoW grey.
     
  13. Romain

    Romain Senior member

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    Blackstone,
    I had a little experience with a "local unknown tailor" (South of France), and I wish to do it again.
    I believe it is better to ask for simple stuff (at least first) such as your Navy 2 buttons. For example it could be hazardous to order a Neapolitan shoulder (recent experience of a friend of mine) or a dape cut à la Sholte.
    Also, don't focus too much on the details like button holes, they would probably be honorably hand made, but don't expect a wonderful milanese... (of course you can always ask for it and see what comes).

    However, except what I stated above, all the rest has to be :fonz: especially the fit, even if it is classic, it should allow you to move easily and look good. And, of course it has to be fully canvassed!

    Good luck :nodding:
     
    Last edited: Nov 14, 2011
  14. blackstone

    blackstone Well-Known Member

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    @Romain

    totally agree. will just keep it simple and classic at first. if he is good then i will get many more made and then i will be able to "experiment"
     
  15. Mute

    Mute Senior member

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    If the tailor is proud to let you see some of his finished work, that's usually a good sign. See if you can get a look at one of his suits on a customer. If you like what you see, I say go for it.
     
  16. blackstone

    blackstone Well-Known Member

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    he has already shown me many examples of his work. he seems to have hell of a lot of work on.

    i will enquire about seeing one on a customer though
     

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