1. And... we're back. You'll notice that all of your images are back as well, as are our beloved emoticons, including the infamous :foo: We have also worked with our server folks and developers to fix the issues that were slowing down the site.

    There is still work to be done - the images in existing sigs are not yet linked, for example, and we are working on a way to get the images to load faster - which will improve the performance of the site, especially on the pages with a ton of images, and we will continue to work diligently on that and keep you updated.

    Cheers,

    Fok on behalf of the entire Styleforum team
    Dismiss Notice

Urgent overcoat question!

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by imageWIS, Mar 4, 2005.

  1. imageWIS

    imageWIS Senior member

    Messages:
    20,008
    Joined:
    Apr 19, 2004
    Location:
    New York City / Buenos Aires
    I meant to post this up earlier in the week, but alas...

    How long should the sleeves by on an overcoat? I.e. where should they end in terms of the distance from a certain part of the hand?

    As well, how suppressed should the waist be? I'm turning a 38 into a 36, so I (by I, I mean my tailor) have a lot of wiggle room to create a elegantly curved / suppressed waist.

    Thanks.

    Jon.
     
  2. j

    j Senior member Admin

    Messages:
    14,914
    Joined:
    Feb 17, 2002
    Location:
    Seattle, WA
    I think they should end just about where your shirt sleeve ends, so that if you bend your hand back it doesn't push up the cuff, but it covers the shirt cuff and well overlaps a glove.
     
  3. j

    j Senior member Admin

    Messages:
    14,914
    Joined:
    Feb 17, 2002
    Location:
    Seattle, WA
    Sorry, got interrupted there.

    As for the waist, it shouldn't be too suppressed, because it needs to be able to move over whatever is underneath. Therefore it depends on what you plan to wear under it. It also depends on the style of the coat - some coats would look weird with waist suppression.
     
  4. imageWIS

    imageWIS Senior member

    Messages:
    20,008
    Joined:
    Apr 19, 2004
    Location:
    New York City / Buenos Aires
    It's a SB 3-button, I have several pictures of suppressed Savile Row suits in Bernhard Roetzel's book, but I A) don't have time to scan / post them B) forgot the book at home so I can't show my tailor (silly me).

    Jon.
     
  5. Fashionslave

    Fashionslave Senior member

    Messages:
    215
    Joined:
    Oct 4, 2004
    Mind the waist suppression if you plan on wearing a suit or sportcoat beneath.As for sleeve length,I've heard it should come to the top of the V formed by the thumb and forefinger.
     
  6. imageWIS

    imageWIS Senior member

    Messages:
    20,008
    Joined:
    Apr 19, 2004
    Location:
    New York City / Buenos Aires
    Yeah, I've read that too. Won't it be too long though? Although that way it ands at ones gloves...hmm...

    Jon.
     
  7. j

    j Senior member Admin

    Messages:
    14,914
    Joined:
    Feb 17, 2002
    Location:
    Seattle, WA
    That seems long to me. As long as it covers your shirt cuff and keeps your glove from popping out (annoying.), beyond that it's down to personal taste, IMO.
     
  8. philosophe

    philosophe Senior member

    Messages:
    4,892
    Joined:
    Oct 20, 2004
    J is right on here. Cover your shirt cuffs and don't make the coat too fitted. Make sure you're wearing winter clothes for the coat fitting.
     
  9. imageWIS

    imageWIS Senior member

    Messages:
    20,008
    Joined:
    Apr 19, 2004
    Location:
    New York City / Buenos Aires
    That's what I mean, so that the glove does not come out, thus the "Ėœwarmth' seal is kept.

    Jon.
     

Share This Page

Styleforum is proudly sponsored by