I meant to post this up earlier in the week, but alas... How long should the sleeves by on an overcoat? I.e. where should they end in terms of the distance from a certain part of the hand? As well, how suppressed should the waist be? I'm turning a 38 into a 36, so I (by I, I mean my tailor) have a lot of wiggle room to create a elegantly curved / suppressed waist. Thanks. Jon.