Urgent overcoat question!

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by imageWIS, Mar 4, 2005.

  1. imageWIS

    imageWIS Senior member

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    I meant to post this up earlier in the week, but alas...

    How long should the sleeves by on an overcoat? I.e. where should they end in terms of the distance from a certain part of the hand?

    As well, how suppressed should the waist be? I'm turning a 38 into a 36, so I (by I, I mean my tailor) have a lot of wiggle room to create a elegantly curved / suppressed waist.

    Thanks.

    Jon.
     


  2. j

    j (stands for Jerk) Admin

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    I think they should end just about where your shirt sleeve ends, so that if you bend your hand back it doesn't push up the cuff, but it covers the shirt cuff and well overlaps a glove.
     


  3. j

    j (stands for Jerk) Admin

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    Sorry, got interrupted there.

    As for the waist, it shouldn't be too suppressed, because it needs to be able to move over whatever is underneath. Therefore it depends on what you plan to wear under it. It also depends on the style of the coat - some coats would look weird with waist suppression.
     


  4. imageWIS

    imageWIS Senior member

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    It's a SB 3-button, I have several pictures of suppressed Savile Row suits in Bernhard Roetzel's book, but I A) don't have time to scan / post them B) forgot the book at home so I can't show my tailor (silly me).

    Jon.
     


  5. Fashionslave

    Fashionslave Senior member

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    Mind the waist suppression if you plan on wearing a suit or sportcoat beneath.As for sleeve length,I've heard it should come to the top of the V formed by the thumb and forefinger.
     


  6. imageWIS

    imageWIS Senior member

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    Yeah, I've read that too. Won't it be too long though? Although that way it ands at ones gloves...hmm...

    Jon.
     


  7. j

    j (stands for Jerk) Admin

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    That seems long to me. As long as it covers your shirt cuff and keeps your glove from popping out (annoying.), beyond that it's down to personal taste, IMO.
     


  8. philosophe

    philosophe Senior member

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    J is right on here. Cover your shirt cuffs and don't make the coat too fitted. Make sure you're wearing winter clothes for the coat fitting.
     


  9. imageWIS

    imageWIS Senior member

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    That's what I mean, so that the glove does not come out, thus the "Ėœwarmth' seal is kept.

    Jon.
     


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