Smooth Jazz
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Check it out . . . http://www.gjcleverley.co.uk/
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With shoes, there is no such distinction. Each term really means the same thing, so the website is being redundant.Although what is "˜Bespoke Made to Measure'? It's either MTM or bespoke, but it can't be both.
Exactly, that's what I think as well. Thus, definitions should read like:I've heard of MTM shoes. Ducker's, in Oxford, once offered to make me a pair. You can choose any particular style from the maker, and they will build it on any of their regular lasts. This way if you need a particular last for reasons of fit, but don't like the shoes they normally make on this last, you can still be satisfied.
They didn't use the term "made-to-measure", but it strikes me as roughly equivalent to what Americans use that term to mean.
No, that's made to order, like the Edward Green made to order program, which has nothing to do with their bespoke program. Â This is simply a Special Order on an existing pattern or last. Â Made to Measure, even in tailoring, denotes that a stock pattern may be used but it is tweaked for some individual measurements. Â Kilgour offers a Stock Special Service that essentially is a made to order service -- patterns are not altered to fit you, but you choose a cloth and a style. Â (It is not their Shanghai bespoke program.) Â Contrast it with Gieves or Richard James' MTM service, where the existing pattern is altered to a certain extent to suit different height or girth or what have you.I've heard of MTM shoes. Ducker's, in Oxford, once offered to make me a pair. You can choose any particular style from the maker, and they will build it on any of their regular lasts. This way if you need a particular last for reasons of fit, but don't like the shoes they normally make on this last, you can still be satisfied.
They didn't use the term "made-to-measure", but it strikes me as roughly equivalent to what Americans use that term to mean.
It can be and is done. The maker will add strips of leather or other material to a stock last to fit the client's measurements (hence the name -- the addition method). Vass in Budapest uses this method, as do all of the custom bootmakers in the United States that I know of. Edward Green will make some additions to stock lasts to satisfy hard-to-fit customers on special orders, but I don't think that the modifications that they'll make for this service are as extensive as you would find at Vass.The acid test of MTM in tailored clothing is whether the stock pattern is modified to better fit a particular individual. So far as I know, this cannot be and never is done with shoe lasts.
I was going to mention that... I remember placing my nose against the window at rue Boissy d'Anglas looking at the place card with prices. The "made to measure" was 1800 euros... Not so long ago, in a different universe with a different exchange rate. Lobb Paris also refer to their bespoke shoes as made to measure.
Live and learn. How well does it work?It can be and is done. The maker will add strips of leather or other material to a stock last to fit the client's measurements (hence the name -- the addition method). Vass in Budapest uses this method, as do all of the custom bootmakers in the United States that I know of. Edward Green will make some additions to stock lasts to satisfy hard-to-fit customers on special orders, but I don't think that the modifications that they'll make for this service are as extensive as you would find at Vass.
Are you referring here strictly to U.S. M-T-M? I'm confused by your phrase "custom bootmakers".It can be and is done. The maker will add strips of leather or other material to a stock last to fit the client's measurements (hence the name -- the addition method). Vass in Budapest uses this method, as do all of the custom bootmakers in the United States that I know of.