UPDATE: (Posture and rushed pics vs.) First bespoke suit - please critique

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Antedote, Jan 1, 2011.

  1. Recoil

    Recoil Senior member

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    ^^

    I've never seen a bespoke suit made in Toronto that fits well or is worth the money. I'm not impressed with any of the offerings from the tailors in the area. All the "alterations" tailors cut corners and the "bespoke" tailors aren't at the top of their game.

    I've got three alterations tailors I take my stuff too depending on the work and I go with whoever I think will fuck up the job the least. None of them inspire any confidence. And just when I think I've found someone who is good I come on here and learn a few more things and realize they've hacked it up.
     
  2. sartorialism

    sartorialism Senior member

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    And just when I think I've found someone who is good I come on here and learn a few more things and realize they've hacked it up.

    Ignorance is bliss. [​IMG]
     
  3. reidrothchild

    reidrothchild Senior member

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    Burn the shirt, tie and vest. Take the suit back and get the shoulders fixed, they are way too wide. Othwerise the fit is good.

    This is just sort of a pet peeve of mine in reading suit critique threads. Whenever there is any sort of shoulder issue, the SF standard-issue response seems to be that the shoulders must be too wide. A tailor (Despos) has already explained the shoulder issue far better than I ever could, and he didn't mention anything about them being wide. Look at the guy's shoulders in the pics where he's not wearing a jacket. He has broad shoulders and a narrow waist; ergo when he puts on a fitted suit jacket, he's going to look top heavy. Maybe the shoulders are a bit wide (though they don't look it to my untrained eyes), but way too wide? I just don't see it. In any event, I've tried having the shoulders narrowed on jackets before, and the results have ranged from passable to atrocious depending on the tailor. I'd prefer a clean shoulder that's slightly too wide to one that's slightly too narrow and creates divots in the shoulder.
     
  4. hymo

    hymo Senior member

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    I have never seen a shoulder line so irregular.

    The jackets has pulls all over the place.

    There is either too much waisting or insufficient flare of the skirt. Looks top heavy.

    Too many gimmicks. What makes you feel like shouting so damned loudly to your environs that you went bespoke?
     
  5. amplifiedheat

    amplifiedheat Senior member

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    Who the hell gets a cutout on his vest to show off his belt buckle? Worst idea I've heard this year.
     
  6. hymo

    hymo Senior member

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    It's like that "Pimp My Ride" show. A suit pimped to the latest ghetto taste.
     
  7. Metlin

    Metlin Senior member

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    Who the hell gets a cutout on his vest to show off his belt buckle? Worst idea I've heard this year.
    Well, more importantly, why would you need a belt on a bespoke suit?
     
  8. sonlegoman

    sonlegoman Senior member

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    Damn, looks like Eric Glennie is hittin the big time.
     
  9. sonlegoman

    sonlegoman Senior member

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    I am shocked by the fact that several members think that the fit of that suit is good. It's so bad that any mid-market RTW suit in the OP's size would fit him much better. Sorry for being crude, but some things should be beyond reasonable disagreement.

    Yeah, lots of armchair quarterbacking from novices.

    Shoes appear to fit bang on though.
     
  10. Maccimus

    Maccimus Senior member

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    Fine MTM jacket and pants. Burn the vest and the shirt please
     
  11. SuitMyself

    SuitMyself Senior member

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  12. GlenCoe

    GlenCoe Senior member

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    is this a joke?
     
  13. GBR

    GBR Senior member

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    The suit itself looks OK-ish for small town MTM: Ah, but it is Toronto, so I cannot be forgiving: Try someone else next time. It is not bespoke by any stretch of the imagination and there is good advice from Despos on improvements. The thought put into the pockets is very sensible - too few think that through. Notably you only have one back pocket and on the left, presumably by choice - do you use it and why not a right as well? Have you had any thoughts about the inside coat pockets or a watch pocket in the trousers?

    However you demonstrate a lack of knowledge of fine clothes with that cut out to display that vulgar belt buckle. A three piece suit should be worn with braces preferably or side adjusters, certainly not a belt. The cut out just says " I can afford bespoke, you can't" and frankly is not attractive, neither is the belt buckle. Burn the vest and don't repeat. The shirt cuff is an abomination: Burn the shirt and any others like it at the same time- you are thinking carerfully in some ways but allowing some madness to creep in quiate unecesarily and to the detriment of the finished look: There is simply no need for such madness and a classic look would be far better.
     
  14. mlongano

    mlongano Senior member

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    I am constantly amazed at how many amateurs continue to put forth their opposing opinions regarding the fit of a suit AFTER one of the most respected tailors in the world has put forth his.

    After reading through all of the advice that Chris Despos has offered in this forum, it is my desire to one day take advantage of his services...I am quite convinced that it will be the first time I realize how a well designed and constructed suit should actually feel.
     
  15. radicaldog

    radicaldog Senior member

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    Increase the knee circumference enough to make the line straight from hip/fly to bottom. There is some advantage to using heavier cloth.

    Thanks very much -- I'll try and find a discreet way to tell this to my tailor next time.
     

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