Unusual clothing features

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by mistahlee, Nov 17, 2004.

  1. Will

    Will Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Agreed. I wear only English back trousers with minor exceptions in the summer, and no rear pockets.

    Will
     


  2. ViroBono

    ViroBono Senior member

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    This style of back is sometimes referred to here (in UK) as a fishtail.

    British military Mess dress invariably features a short jacket, whether stable or cavalry style, so high waisted trousers (some Mess uniforms have a version called coveralls) are essential. Worn with braces they ensure that the trousers hang perectly, but are also very comfortable to sit in. The higher waist also ensures that glimpses of shirt are not visible 'twixt waistcoat and trousers, for example when dancing.

    When I tried mine on for the first time I thought the waist slightly loose; the tailor told me he had made an allowance 'for the ravages of time and good dinners, sir'. His foresight has proved both accurate and useful.
     


  3. mistahlee

    mistahlee Senior member

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    There is a tailor here, an Englishman.  He learned his trade making uniforms for the King's Troop Royal Horse Artillery.  Later he spent seven years at Hawes & Curtis, now defunct.  He advises me and I give him a lot of business.
     


  4. kidkim2

    kidkim2 Senior member

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    I'm pretty sure it's the opposite of cool, but my "clothing feature" certainly counts as unusual.  Throughout my life, I've ordered waistcoats with my suits.  But I suffer from a mortal dread of the triangle of shirting that sometimes appears betweeen the vest and the trouser waistband.  So I specify that the vest be tailored with a working bottom button.  

    I've never heard of--or seen--anyone else who does this.  But neither has anyone ever commented on my doing so.  Hmmm. . . .
     


  5. Boulevardier

    Boulevardier Active Member

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    So does the vest still have the inverted 'V' at the bottom or do you end up with a square-bottomed vest?
    I must admit to having the some fear but have 'conquered' it by having my trousers made with a higher rise.
     


  6. masterfred

    masterfred Well-Known Member

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    Flusser describes the Viennese Knize 3-piece suit as having a tab that attaches to the trouser waistband, and shoulder tabs in the vest to hold up suspender straps. Anyone ever seen (or had made) a vested suit like this?
     


  7. Boulevardier

    Boulevardier Active Member

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    Great to see your moniker here masterfred. Wow that seems like a lot of inner construction.I'd be interested in this too.
     


  8. mistahlee

    mistahlee Senior member

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    Can't picture it.  Where is the button?
     


  9. kidkim2

    kidkim2 Senior member

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    The bottom of the vest still branches in the usual way--with perhaps slightly less spread. The big difference is that the bottom (now working) button is lower on the torso. It makes me feel more secure.

    I am 6'6" tall. Even with an extra long rise. . . .

    masterfred--The vest arrangement you mention sounds a bit like the familiar cumberbund attachment. Certainly works with the dinner suit. I might try it on my next three piece for day wear.
     


  10. Horace

    Horace Senior member

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    I have a similar backing on my bespoke trousers. And button on outside of waistbands on all suits cut for braces.
     


  11. Horace

    Horace Senior member

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    I agree with Brummel's credo as well.

    I do like back pockets on trousers. Usually one will hold a cotton handkerchief.
     


  12. Horace

    Horace Senior member

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    Is the working bottom-button that unusual in a waiscoat?  

    I've always had them made that way, though I've never asked for that feature, specifically.
     


  13. Boulevardier

    Boulevardier Active Member

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    Here's an unusual clothing feature.An extra buttonhole on the front of a waistcoat made to accommodate a watch chain.Back in the early days of the designer Alexander Julian, the vests on his three piece suits (RTW) actually came with this feature.An Englishman informed me that it's called a 'guard hole'.
     


  14. Dutch Master

    Dutch Master Active Member

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    The original English back was created with individual brace tabs for each back button of the braces. This avoids the "pulling" as seen in the image. For the front part of the waistband the ONLY correct placement of the buttons is on the OUTSIDE of the trouser. This placement avoids the "pulling" from the inside of the waistband, which also is a proponent of the dreaded "rollover". The correct location for the front waistband on the body is a half inch below the navel. I am eager to find out more about the English tailor located in Florida.
     


  15. twhite1

    twhite1 Member

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    I really like the look of the English trouser. Are these available only in bespoke, or is one of the internet MTM able to provide these as well? Any particular line carry these in RTW?

    Thanks.

    Tom
     


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