Untapering tapered suit pants

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by johnnynorman3, Oct 31, 2004.

  1. johnnynorman3

    johnnynorman3 Senior member

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    I saw a fantastic Baldessarini suit the other day for very cheap. Exactly what I'd want in a suit, except the pants have a pretty nice taper at the bottom, and that cut just doesn't flatter my body (I need more of a break over the shoe). Can a good tailor do anything to untaper tapered pants, or is there simply not enough fabric to do this?
     


  2. Manton

    Manton RINO Dubiously Honored

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    There's probably not enough cloth. This is, to say the least, not a common alteration. Plus it would really screw up the balance of the trousers.

    But the taper should not affect the break at all, unless I misunderstand you. All you need for a nice break is enough length.
     


  3. j

    j (stands for Jerk) Admin

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    I don't know if it can be made to look right, but you'd have to check how much extra is in the side seams of the pants to see if it's physically possible. If you had enough fabric in each of those seams all the way up to the knee to be able to resew them at a lesser taper and re-press them then yes, you could make the end of the leg wider. I don't know if it would look right, though, as I said. I checked the trousers to an Oxxford suit and they had maybe 1/2" of extra seam in the side seams at the bottom, but it's asymmetrical (i.e. the front side has none and the back side has 1/2") so it would be more involved than if it were symmetrical.
     


  4. Manton

    Manton RINO Dubiously Honored

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    1/2" of excess is not enough cloth to let out. There has to be enough cloth remaining on each side of the seam that can be folded back and pressed flat, otherwise you end up with a ridge running the length of the trouser leg that screws up the way the leg hangs (making it somewhat stiff) and also causes discomfort from rubbing against your leg.
     


  5. johnnynorman3

    johnnynorman3 Senior member

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    Yeah, I figured that it wasn't possible. Manton, I guess when I say, "not enough break" I'm referring to the pant not covering the tops of the shoe enough. I ideally, I like the back edge of my pants to fall to about the top of the heel (right were the heel meets the upper) and the top to cover about half of the eyelets. With these pants, the cuffs will not be able to do that. The back of the pants basically hits to the middle of the upper and then it just won't drape any further. I just don't like how it makes my legs look.
     


  6. j

    j (stands for Jerk) Admin

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    That's what I meant, there's 1/2" beyond the fold back allowance that the front has. In any case I don't think it's advisable. Even if possible it would be prohibitively expensive.
     


  7. Manton

    Manton RINO Dubiously Honored

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    Do you mean that the cuff (or leg bottom) is not wide enough?  That probably can't be fixed.

    However, if you want the trouser ends to angle rearward over the heel, but end higher over the vamp (i.e., have the trouser bottom slant downward from vamp to heel) that's easily doable, provided you give up cuffs.
     


  8. STYLESTUDENT

    STYLESTUDENT Senior member

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  9. VMan

    VMan Senior member

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    I have a few pairs of Prada and Dolce slacks that I bought sight-unseen for a great price online. Unfortunately, every one of them is tapered greatly at the ankle - so much that there's only an inch of allowance or so.

    There isn't enough material to let out on each side, so I was thinking about having a 2" slit sewn onto the inside of the pants (I've seen some Versace slacks with this done at the factory, to give a boot-cut) to allow them to break over the shoe better. However, this is probably better suited for casual slacks, and not for a suit.
     


  10. TYKOSHIRO

    TYKOSHIRO Active Member

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    How would you compare the Baldessarini trouser cut to Borrelli?
     


  11. johnnynorman3

    johnnynorman3 Senior member

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    I would say for this pair the cut is similar, though the Borrelli pants are much better proportioned because they are a bit slimmer all the way down.

    Look, I love Borrelli suits and I don't mind pants with a more tapered ankle -- they just don't look good on me. FYI, I have seen Baldessarini suits with non-tapered ankles, though I haven't seen enough Borrelli suits to know for them.
     


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