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Unstructured suit, before and after

UrbanComposition

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Edit 1/20/2011 - Scroll down for the after pics.

Original post 12/9/2010 -

I know the suit doesn't fit. At all. This will be fixed. This thread will be a sort of a catalogue of the tailoring of the suit. More directly:

Freely share your ideas/thoughts on how an unstructured suit should fit.

The original post:

This is my first unconstructed suit, and I'm at a bit of a loss as to how I want it to fit.

Currently, it's a bit big, and a little long. This I realize. But my tailor can work crazy voodoo with a needle, and truth be told, this one doesn't have to fit perfectly, as it'll be worn casually, and when I'm feeling fat.

Here's what I'd like to have done:

Take in the shoulders
Slight waist suppression
Raise the bottom patch pockets 1.5"
Raise the top patch pocket 1" - not 100% sure about this one.
Shorten the jacket 1.5"
Shorten the sleeves

As for the pants - I'll either have suspender buttons put in for the ultimate comfort, or have the tailor make side tabs with the extra material. Not sure yet.

Thoughts?





After alterations:



 

JohnnyLaw

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It fits like a lab coat. It seems to be at least a full size too big.
 

UrbanComposition

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Indeed. I've made notations as to what I'd like to fix. What are your thoughts on tailoring unstructured suits? Soft? Is less more?
 

Steeze

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Ask yourself this question. If Isaia didn't make the garment would you even bother? It doesn't seem to be your size.
 

Eustace Tilley

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Originally Posted by JohnnyLaw
It fits like a lab coat. It seems to be at least a full size too big.

+1. Not good. Awful even.
 

UrbanComposition

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^
agreed. Does anyone have experience with unstructured suits, or opinions on how they should look? @Steeze: I bought it because it's an unstructured suit, and is cozy. The maker, at least in this case, is inconsequential.
 

Lear

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I bought a totally unstructured linen jacket (made by J. Keydge) a while back. Got it from the lovely people at J. Simons, when they were next to Drury Lane, London. Anyway, it sits on me like a tent that's had the poles removed. Even for a size 60 Euro (UK 50), it's pretty roomy. It now gets worn on my summer walks to the gym.

Lear
 

ter1413

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You look like one of those dudes that work on the floor of the NYSE!
 

ter1413

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Originally Posted by UrbanComposition
Edited for clarity:

I know the suit doesn't fit. At all. This will be fixed. This thread will be a sort of a catalogue of the tailoring of the suit. More directly:

Freely share your ideas/thoughts on how an unstructured suit should fit.

The original post:

This is my first unconstructed suit, and I'm at a bit of a loss as to how I want it to fit.

Currently, it's a bit big, and a little long. This I realize. But my tailor can work crazy voodoo with a needle, and truth be told, this one doesn't have to fit perfectly, as it'll be worn casually, and when I'm feeling fat.

Here's what I'd like to have done:

Take in the shoulders
Slight waist suppression
Raise the bottom patch pockets 1.5"
Raise the top patch pocket 1" - not 100% sure about this one.
Shorten the jacket 1.5"
Shorten the sleeves

As for the pants - I'll either have suspender buttons put in for the ultimate comfort, or have the tailor make side tabs with the extra material. Not sure yet.

After all tailoring is complete, douse with gasoline and ignite!

Thoughts?


Fixed!!!
 

Macallan

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Originally Posted by UrbanComposition
Currently, it's a bit big, and a little long. This I realize. But my tailor can work crazy voodoo with a needle, and truth be told, this one doesn't have to fit perfectly, as it'll be worn casually, and when I'm feeling fat.

Return it. Get a suit at least one size smaller, I think you will probably need to drop two sizes and then let your tailor do his 'crazy voodoo' magic.



Originally Posted by UrbanComposition
Here's what I'd like to have done:

Take in the shoulders
Slight waist suppression
Raise the bottom patch pockets 1.5"
Raise the top patch pocket 1" - not 100% sure about this one.
Shorten the jacket 1.5"
Shorten the sleeves

As for the pants - I'll either have suspender buttons put in for the ultimate comfort, or have the tailor make side tabs with the extra material. Not sure yet.


Too much work for a casual suit. If you got a suit that fit better, you will only need to get half that work done, if not less.
 

UrbanComposition

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The catalyst was this post from Will's blog. I too felt like experimenting, and if it leads me to only wear the jacket as pajamas, at least they'll have pockets
 

Roger Everett

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Originally Posted by JohnnyLaw
It fits like a lab coat. It seems to be at least a full size too big.


Sorry dude, but my first thought was " that looks like shit " Something you only wear outside, when you take the dog out to pinch a loaf, and only when it's dark.
 

lee_44106

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No reason why a completely unlined/unstructured jacket should fit any different from a structured counterpart.

Provided you have an excellent tailor, everything is do-able.

Shoulder can be decreased, pockets moved (beware of stitch marks though).

What's going on with that horizontal line across the back?

You said this is part of a suit?
 

Sanguis Mortuum

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Originally Posted by lee_44106
What's going on with that horizontal line across the back?

It has a yoke, like a shirt. This could be just a styling touch or it could be to improve the fit across the back without using ironwork or easing like would be usual for a coat. Not that it's succeeded in this case...
 

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