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Unstructured Sport Coat Suggestions

aperson

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I bought an LBM 1911 in a sz. 50 (I usually wear 40 US, so it sounded right). The shoulders were way too wide (about an inch on either side), and I couldn't get the sleeves short enough at the shoulder without making the arms too narrow. I ordered a Boglioli from yoox that should arrive tomorrow, hopefully it'll be a better fit.

Edit: Boglioli arrived. It's beautiful, but the sleeves are way too long, and altering the jacket at the shoulder would ruin the pattern matching (black / blue plaid). I'm sending it back and ordering one in a solid color.
 
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Gus

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Polo just got in a new collection of unconstructed washed linen jackets that have excellent details and would be perfect for spring/summer. A bit casual but very good looking. I think they were $495. Sorry but they aren't on sale.
 
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aperson

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A jacket from polo for $95 not on sale? That sounds...unlikely. Where did you see this?
 

joeman

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I read somewhere rag & bone makes unstructured coats.
 

Spark

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I've ordered a few Bogliolis and an LBM from YOOX and had to send them back - the sleeves (working buttons) were fine in length but the length is cut very short on a regular but I can't seem to find any Longs.

Strange but true, I stumbled across this jacket from Joseph Abboud about a year ago in a Nordie's Rack while hunting down some shoe trees - zero padding, unlined, dual vent, working buttons but long sleeve ends for easy fix, patch pockets, wool, cashmere, silk blend. I had my tailor do the sleeves and nip the waist and it is one of my favorite coats for casual wear....feels more like a shirt and I get compliments pin it all the time from random strangers (and I generally wear Isaia, Caruso, Barberra, etc.).

I bought it for $100. Took it to my tailor and asked what it would cost to reproduce it - "$1,000." Hmmmm...

Then I went online and found this:
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B007BK4698/ref=pe_175190_21431760_C1_cs_sce_dp_1

Same coat (I had the blue/black/grey check one) but in both a solid navy and a gray - just ordered them!

FWIW, I've been looking for the Keis and they seem hard to find.
 

aperson

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Spark - what Boglioli did you get? I was looking at this on Yoox, and wondering if anybody happened to have the measurements of a 38R... I'm glad to hear that the jacket is short, since I'm a short guy
http://www.yoox.com/item/YOOX/BOGLIOLI/dept/men/tskay/3FD17CD7/rr/1/cod10/41280180PF/sts/sr_men80
I don't know the exact measurements, but a 38R is like a 38S with abnormally long sleeves. I'm about 5'9, and I'd guess that I need to take in at least 3 inches for a proper fit.

I believe the sleeves are intentionally long (in their lookbooks everybody is wearing t shirts or polos so there's no cuff showing anyway), but even if you're going for that style you'll need to have them altered.

If the sleeves fit you out of the box, the jacket itself will be about sweater length.
 

Spark

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Sorry, I don't know the Boglioli models - I grabbed a couple in the post-Xmas sales where prices were slashed to $2-250. My ideal BOC measurements should be 31.5 and this was more in the 29.5/30 range - close but no cigar. My sense is that the cut is part of the current trend to go shorter in the profile, but that whole Thom Brown-ish thing doesn't work for me.

RE 3 beans for JA. Agreed. Normally I wouldn't even look at his stuff, but these pieces are a real aberration from everything I've ever seen from them - it's the full Neapolitan package. Wears like a cardigan, very louche. But I got the first one for 100 and then went so far as getting a quote on re-producing it because I was wearing the crap out of it and my tailor said a grand. So yeah, more than I would have liked but much cheaper than I would have paid to get another. Sizing is accurate and you can return them if it doesn't work. I figured that they were a one-off in the line, probably didn't resonate with their normal target market, and wouldn't be making any more, so I ponied up.
 

joe4u

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Brooks Brothers also designs unstructured sports coats.
 

reidrothchild

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That actually doesn't look too bad. $200 isn't a bad price, but I haven't been thrilled with my CT shirts, so I doubt the quality would be in the Boglioli/LBM range.

I also have an unstructured Crittenden SC, and I would say it's comparable to my Boglioli in terms of quality. It's a touch longer though.
 

aperson

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Brooks Brothers also designs unstructured sports coats.
I have a couple of these in cotton that I picked up for about $150 each last year.

The cotton is a bit on the 'crisp' side if you're looking for something casual. Even though they're 'unstructured', the fabric is so stiff that they wear like a traditional suit jacket.

I much prefer the soft cotton and blends from LBM and boglioli. BB sleeves are easy to alter though, and the shoulders are spot on.
 

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