Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread

[WillingToLearn]

I have a couple from bunch, will take a picture later, I can highly recommend them although you have to like salt/pepper as a style, as is always the case with flannell.

EDIT: here you go View attachment 1292871

That's great, and yes, i love that book. i have a pair in a brownish grey, i've heard it called "donkey" that i love.

Could you give me the number of the dark grey middle pair in that photo? Thanks

 

[WillingToLearn]

@Bespoke DJP

That's great, thank you. I saw that grey at NMWA. You don't happen to have the fabric # for the charcoal version in the photo do you?

 

[Joefitz]

I have many ebay suits, and now want to go bespoke.
I'm confused on fabrics. Bespoke tailor tells me suits cost 2k up to 12k depending on fabric. What is a good year round wool fabric that is not super expensive. There are like 3000 choices. I need some help as I am new to this. Brand? Weight? Wool number? Any wool that is more wrinkle resistent?

 

[norMD]

I have many ebay suits, and now want to go bespoke.
I'm confused on fabrics. Bespoke tailor tells me suits cost 2k up to 12k depending on fabric. What is a good year round wool fabric that is not super expensive. There are like 3000 choices. I need some help as I am new to this. Brand? Weight? Wool number? Any wool that is more wrinkle resistent?

I would recommend you to read the permanentstyle guide on cloth.

 

[Joefitz]

I would recommend you to read the permanentstyle guide on cloth.

Thank you. I’m new to this. In the military you don’t have a choice how to dress. Now it’s fun, but a tad confusing

 

[dieworkwear]

I have many ebay suits, and now want to go bespoke.
I'm confused on fabrics. Bespoke tailor tells me suits cost 2k up to 12k depending on fabric. What is a good year round wool fabric that is not super expensive. There are like 3000 choices. I need some help as I am new to this. Brand? Weight? Wool number? Any wool that is more wrinkle resistent?

It's always best to start with your tailor's recommendation. If you start with a good tailor, he or she will be able to recommend you good cloth. If you haven't chosen a good tailor, then it won't matter much anyway.

That said, a friend of mine said that he really likes Draper's Ascot 4-ply as a year-round cloth for suits. I recently handled a pair of trousers in the material and thought it felt very nice. It seems to hang heavier for its weight. It's also a high twist, tropical wool, which means it resists wrinkles and breathes a bit better than most.

I have a suit in Harrison's Oyster. I also think that works well for a year-rounder. Has a nice heft and doesn't wrinkle.

But again, always good to start with your tailor. They should be able to narrow down your choices to three or four, if you give them some parameters of how you plan to wear the suit.

 

[The Chai]

Can anyone comment on the durability of seersucker? I’m playing around with the ideal of a 1b shawl dinner jacket in solbiati 240 gram midnight seersucker. Alternatively if the stocks go well I might splurge and order some midnight 100% kid mohair

 

[gdl203]

That said, a friend of mine said that he really likes Draper's Ascot 4-ply as a year-round cloth for suits. I recently handled a pair of trousers in the material and thought it felt very nice. It seems to hang heavier for its weight. It's also a high twist, tropical wool, which means it resists wrinkles and breathes a bit better than most.

Drapers/VBC 4-ply is really great but I’m not sure I’d want such an open weave on a 30 degree day in the city. Jacket may not matter because of overcoat but those legs will get cold fast

 

[mactire]

Dear @mactire,

I could not agree more!

As long as a chalet in Cortina d' Ampezzo is waiting...

Cheers,

Dimitris

Fake it til you make it baybay

 

[patrickBOOTH]

I really cannot understand why anybody would want a shawl collar. They are terrible looking.

 

[patrickBOOTH]

It's always best to start with your tailor's recommendation. If you start with a good tailor, he or she will be able to recommend you good cloth. If you haven't chosen a good tailor, then it won't matter much anyway.

That said, a friend of mine said that he really likes Draper's Ascot 4-ply as a year-round cloth for suits. I recently handled a pair of trousers in the material and thought it felt very nice. It seems to hang heavier for its weight. It's also a high twist, tropical wool, which means it resists wrinkles and breathes a bit better than most.

I have a suit in Harrison's Oyster. I also think that works well for a year-rounder. Has a nice heft and doesn't wrinkle.

But again, always good to start with your tailor. They should be able to narrow down your choices to three or four, if you give them some parameters of how you plan to wear the suit.

Does Lesser still make the 9oz book? That stuff is great sturdy twill weave.

 

[The Chai]

I really cannot understand why anybody would want a shawl collar. They are terrible looking.

Well this is my personal theory. Fundamentally I agree that a peak lapel looks ‘better’ and more elegant...however to me it only looks right being worn as a three piece with waistcoat. It looks weird with a cummerbund and even weirded without. That to me limits its functionality especially in the Aussie summer and in terms of events. It can come across as stiff...especially if you wear it to a bar...I find the shawl more relaxed, louche and hence higher functionality. I started out disliking shawls as well but time and changes in taste has made me prefer over a three piece sbpl dj. If I could only have one DJ it would be a 1b shawl sb

 

[Bespoke DJP]

Fake it til you make it baybay

Dear @mactire,

I am obliged to say that I've been there, spent generously my time! Well, not exactly what the fabulous David Niven used to experience, but considering the obvious differences, I am fully satisfied. As the song goes, "those were the days" my friend!

Cheers,

Dimitris

PS
Therefore, "go big or go home"!

PS 2
Now, back to cloth.

 

[ericgereghty]

I really cannot understand why anybody would want a shawl collar. They are terrible looking.

 

[patrickBOOTH]

Shawl collars suck. Sorry guys, now you know.