Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread

[patliean1]

Thank you @zr3rs

 

[circumspice]

It also depends on the pattern. take 4m to be safe.

Yeah, I have never asked B&Tailor what the floor would be, but I have gone with 2.5 for a coat and 4 for a suit. With 5 in a solid, I am having a second pair of pants and a vest done. I do CMT with them so my subsequent meetings are just fittings.

I am 6ft and 175

 

[Bespoke DJP]

Dear @patliean1,

As a comparison, I am 1.785m, 71-72kg and I need 3m for a solid SB suit; no patterns, nap, or patch pockets accounted.

I agree that the safe length for what you described would be 4m, but the optimum one would be 3.5m; in cases where cloth is über expensive, half a meter is a considerable cost!

Mind you, your tailors may have their own specs, requirements, so yes, checking with them first would be the most wise choice!

Best,

Dimitris

 

[patliean1]

I agree that the safe length for what you described would be 4m, but the optimum one would be 3.5m; in cases where cloth is über expensive, half a meter is a considerable cost!

Thanks for your reply. I've been quoted for some Fox Brothers fabric, and man that stuff is quite pricey! Worth it I'm sure...

 

[lordsuperb]

Thanks for your reply. I've been quoted for some Fox Brothers fabric, and man that stuff is quite pricey! Worth it I'm sure...

Unless you plan to sit on it just go through your tailor.

 

[bdavro23]

Unless you plan to sit on it just go through your tailor.

Good advice.

 

[zr3rs]

I've been quoted for some Fox Brothers fabric, and man that stuff is quite pricey! Worth it I'm sure...

The official prices are set so that they do not undercut resellers or tailors that want to markup the fabric.

 

[patliean1]

Whether it's negligence or laziness I have seen some tailors leave the responsibility of sourcing CMT fabrics solely on the client. This isn't to say my current tailor follows this philosophy, but having the transparency of fabric costs might be helpful to some clients.

 

[Concordia]

Pattern aside...is 3.5 meters the "typical" amount of cloth for a two piece suit? I plan to also ask my tailor directly but I'm looking to source my own CMT fabric.

I'm 6 feet (182 cm) in height, and I weigh 180 lbs (81 kg). Thanks

I usually get 4.5m.

Of course, I'm a bit larger than you, and that includes high-waisted trousers with cuffs, and DB jacket, as necessary. But always better not to run out in case of some mishap.

 

[RogerC]

There are a few circumstances in which it makes sense to go CMT: vintage/dead stock fabrics, killer deals, seasonal cloth you can’t make up straight away or special commissions like Dieworkwear’s summer tweed. In all other cases, just go through your tailor. It might be slightly more expensive but you’ll save the hassle and are protected if anything goes wrong. On topic: I’m 6’3 and at my biggest had a 47 inch chest. Even for patterned fabrics and patch pockets, I never needed more than 3,5m (although you always want to make sure you’re not confusing metres and yards).

 

[SimonC]

I have said it before, but I am 6ft 3in and have never needed more than 3m for a suit and 2m for a jacket.

I will acknowledge a preference for deadstock fabric, but also find that by buying bolts I can get a better sense of what a garment would look / feel like, which has avoided a few costly mistakes.

 

[dieworkwear]

The official prices are set so that they do not undercut resellers or tailors that want to markup the fabric.

That's true, although Fox Brothers cloth is also very expensive. At least when I inquired about organizing a custom run. They do try to maintain a global price so that you're not undercutting them or their partners. But the wholesale price is such that you can't sell it for much less than the global price anyway without losing money.

 

[ACluelessGent]

Pattern aside...is 3.5 meters the "typical" amount of cloth for a two piece suit? I plan to also ask my tailor directly but I'm looking to source my own CMT fabric.

I'm 6 feet (182 cm) in height, and I weigh 180 lbs (81 kg). Thanks

I need 3m. I am 180 cm and 70Kg.

 

[The Chai]

"Tailleur Oblique" wool serge suit - Ready-to-Wear - Men's Fashion | DIOR

Single-button "Tailleur Oblique" suit in gray wool serge with notched lapel Jacket: length of back: 75 cm (size 48R)Notched lapelSingle-button "Tailleur Oblique"Traditional interfacingHand-stitched detailsHorn buttons, working buttonhole Pants: Straight cut, high waistAdjustable side tabs...

www.dior.com

So the suit Daniel Craig is wearing in that picture costs $3700 USD... facepalm*

 

[mactire]

Pattern aside...is 3.5 meters the "typical" amount of cloth for a two piece suit? I plan to also ask my tailor directly but I'm looking to source my own CMT fabric.

I'm 6 feet (182 cm) in height, and I weigh 180 lbs (81 kg). Thanks

Ask your tailor and then add on some more. Over time you'll find out some are better or more economical cutters than others. I've had a 2-piece suit made from 3.5m and 3.9m. And some can get one from 3m.