Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread

[lordsuperb]

Per today's Permanent Style blogpost, Michael Browne is £6500 (inc VAT) and upwards for a suit.

Times the standard 17% import tax + the additional 25% makes the suit unobtainable.

 

[reidd]

MB's stuff looks fantastic but for roughly 1/3 the price, I'm beyond enamored with the stuff I have gotten from Naples.

 

[usctrojans31]

MB's stuff looks fantastic but for roughly 1/3 the price, I'm beyond enamored with the stuff I have gotten from Naples.

Exactly this. I was talking to a Parisian tailor whose work I really admire. His prices were 2.25x as expensive as my tailor in Italy, and I work with one of the more expensive ones there.

 

[CorozoButton]

Not sure if this is the right thread, as it isn't a query regarding cloth for bespoke/MTM, but I was looking at two pure cashmere coats in Suitsupply. One was cloth from Colombo, and the other Carlo Barbera. Does anyone have any opinion on if one should expect a difference in quality between the cloths?

 

[HuggyBear]

I only use Steed and Formosa and won't be switching any time soon. I don't want to think about what C&M or Michael Browne's prices are like given the new tariffs.

Ha, I missed out Steed. I have no doubt he can do as well as C&M and MB. There was a time all three were in the same place on the row... good choice ??

 

[patrickBOOTH]

Not sure if this is the right thread, as it isn't a query regarding cloth for bespoke/MTM, but I was looking at two pure cashmere coats in Suitsupply. One was cloth from Colombo, and the other Carlo Barbera. Does anyone have any opinion on if one should expect a difference in quality between the cloths?

I have no experience with Colombo, but Carlo Barbera (at least the old stuff) was exceptional.

 

[lordsuperb]

Ha, I missed out Steed. I have no doubt he can do as well as C&M and MB. There was a time all three were in the same place on the row... good choice ??

The lapped seams I saw from C&M were a bit more pronounced than what I’m looking to do. I will see how things work out next year.

 

[patrickBOOTH]

I actually don't love lapped seams on everything. I like it on sportcoats and I like it on trouser outseams, but all else is kind of handwork for handwork's sake and a bit too flashy.

 

[mactire]

MB's stuff looks fantastic but for roughly 1/3 the price, I'm beyond enamored with the stuff I have gotten from Naples.

Who do you go to in Naples?

 

[lordsuperb]

I actually don't love lapped seams on everything. I like it on sportcoats and I like it on trouser outseams, but all else is kind of handwork for handwork's sake and a bit too flashy.

Let's hope I didn't choose the wrong piece to do it with because this looks awful.

 

[dan'l]

^ Isn’t that one by Liverano? I seem to recall Simon had a purple SC from Liverano, but not sure if that’s it.

 

[UrbanComposition]

Is lapped seams the same as pick stitching spaced from the lapel seam?

 

[norMD]

Is lapped seams the same as pick stitching spaced from the lapel seam?

No, i think it is when the fabric overlaps. This is Simons suit with lapped seams.

 

[lordsuperb]

^ Isn’t that one by Liverano? I seem to recall Simon had a purple SC from Liverano, but not sure if that’s it.

That's the one.

Is lapped seams the same as pick stitching spaced from the lapel seam?

See shoulder seem of an Italian suit. The one's made by C&M were a bit more pronounced.

C&M

 

[UrbanComposition]

Ah. Got it, thanks.