Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread

[lngn2]

Interesting! I’d think that a Bemberg-lined waistband would be too slick and the trousers would slide down. But I guess that’s what braces are for!

Not an issue I've had! Trouser p0rn of a pair I've recently made in 9oz white linen w. bemberg lining & waistband. Biggest thing that makes a difference to whether trousers slide down or not is getting enough shape in the waistband. Following on from some help from a friend on the Row I've started making them with split waistband reinforcement and collar canvas - the resulting waistband is therefore slightly smaller at the top than the bottom and really hugs the body.

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Sunday sewing - lots of hand sewing on the curtain and lining of these white linen trousers I&#39;ve made myself from @dugdalebrosandco 9oz linen. #menswear #whitetrousers #style #fashion #sewing #tailoring #linen

A post shared by Lionel Nierop (@lionelnierop) on Aug 4, 2019 at 3:57am PDT​

 

[lngn2]

What do you call this fabric lining used by Rota? Is silesia just cotton?

View attachment 1230560

Yes.

 

[The Chai]

Bathroom pics! Mine has rubber and cotton Silesia

 

[Despos]

^ that is readymade waistband curtain. Buy it in rolls and sewn in by machine.
Silesia is lighter weight cotton used in jackets for pocketing. Not appropriate for trousers. Cotton pocketing for trousers is closer to cotton drill. More dense and stronger fabric as trouser pockets take more wear and tear than pockets in jackets. Getting harder to find 100% cotton pocketing for trousers. That's the good stuff. Poly cotton blends are more common but not as good IMO. You can use almost anything for trouser curtain as long as it doesn't shrink, bleed color and lasts as long as the trouser cloth does. Have seen lining used and shirting fabrics too. Usually it's sleeve lining not lining used to line the body of a jacket

 

[patrickBOOTH]

I didn't know sleeve lining was different than body lining.

 

[The Chai]

I didn't know sleeve lining was different than body lining.

Dont y usually get white/cream striped lining for the sleeves and a standard Bemberg lining for the body?

 

[Despos]

sleeve lining is softer and lighter than most jacket linings. I use Bemberg Asahi for sleeves and use the same to line trousers. It doesn't shrink at all and is durable. Think I read that it's made from wood pulp.
Looked it up, found this. "Bemberg is a regenerated fiber made from cotton linter"

 

[patrickBOOTH]

Is it different than ermazine? I get that in summer suits.

 

[smittycl]

Interesting morning. So far I've had to Google silesia and ermazine.

 

[Despos]

Interesting morning. So far I've had to Google silesia and ermazine.

Same here. Now I know Silesia is a region in Poland bordering the Czech Republic.
Smitty, Google Bemberg Asahi for product info

 

[dan'l]

I also learned a lot today, especially due to the feedback from @Despos.

Oh, and I’m glad that @The Chai cropped his bathroom pic!

 

[smittycl]

Same here. Now I know Silesia is a region in Poland bordering the Czech Republic.
Smitty, Google Bemberg Asahi for product info

Yeah, us History majors could find Silesia on a map but never knew it was a fabric as well!

 

[The Chai]

I know silesia from my total war gaming days

 

[ValidusLA]

Yeah, us History majors could find Silesia on a map but never knew it was a fabric as well!

All 4 of us lol.

Indeed Silesia is one of the more famous provinces that even HS students learn about in AP Euro, but I had no idea it was a fabric!

 

[SimonC]

Can anyone ID this tweed? On a bespoke sportcoat from about a decade ago - thick, soft hand; if it's still available I'd like to buy some:

Well it took me five years, but I finally have my hand on a jacket length of this tweed from Hunters of Brora. It’s gonna be a horseblanket winter!