Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread

[smittycl]

The Leder is a badass piece. Saw it last week.

Folks here on SF are connected in ways that surpass the Six Degrees of Kevin Bacon... ?

 

[Lorenzodm]

 

[Bromley]

Who's that cutting on a glass table?

 

[smittycl]

[QUOTE="Lorenzodm, post:
[/QUOTE]
Well, that was encyclopedic!

Possibly a bit too casual for me actually. Really like it but leaning more overcoat than pea coat. Already have Billy Reid's Bond Pea Coat and wear the crap out of it.. Anyway, will check out the offering when it hits the website!

 

[paborden]

@paborden did you ever find anything that came close to this large scale herringbone? I've been on the look out myself after you posted it a while ago and am curious to see what you've come up with...the only thing that I've come a cross is sort of similar (but it looks like its a touch darker) the W Bill WB21703 in their classic coating bunch

@Despos or @dieworkwear any idea where to find a large scale herringbone overcoat fabric like this?

Closest I've found is this - https://www.themerchantfox.co.uk/collections/coating/products/fox-tonedale-herringbone. Not quite the same but am thinking of getting something in this made up. I've scoured all mills, been on a trip to Scotland in the last year even, and no luck any more than this.

The W Bill options are nice but they are even more different than the Fox version, IMO.

 

[smittycl]

Was actually thinking of something closer to this. Hickey Freeman had a cashmere DB coat a few seasons ago. Kicked myself for letting it get past me. Clean lines but I’d like bolder lapels. Nice top coat length. Full length coats just bounce off my shins and get wet with slush and rock salt. Annoying in cars too.

 

[lordsuperb]

Was actually thinking of something closer to this. Hickey Freeman had a cashmere DB coat a few seasons ago. Kicked myself for letting it get past me. Clean lines but I’d like bolder lapels. Nice top coat length. Full length coats just bounce off my shins and get wet with slush and rock salt. Annoying in cars too.
View attachment 1223888

Why not go to Nordstrom’s and get it MTO?

 

[bdavro23]

You, sir, are correct. This is a good chance to pick your brain:

- looking for a double-breasted coat cut to fit over a suit
- Navy wool/cashmere blend would be nice, can be a shade or two lighter than standard Navy blue
- hate full length coats, prefer at or maybe just below knee, close to car coat length
- love bold (almost Gestapo-bold) peak lapels, hate the small ones with horizontal top edges
- slanted hand warmer pockets, hate patch pockets, besom pockets below hand warmer pockets okay

I realize I’m describing a long Pea Coat of sorts. What do you think?

I did an double breasted overcoat in Loro Piana Baby Camelhair last year and it si a gorgeous off-navy kind of color. I'll try to take a picture for you in the morning if I remember.

 

[emptym]

Cavalry twill trousers in gray, is that a thing? I have them in olive green and have seen them mostly in tans and taupes. I want to branch out from gray flannel but pairing a navy sport coat with gray trousers is my go to. I was looking at Huddersfield, any other rec’s?

I have some in gray that I like a lot, a custom pair from Drapers fabric and a rtw one from Gurteen of unknown fabric. They go well with a navy flannel blazer imo. The Gurteen pair may be my most-worn pants in winter.

 

[Fonz4]

@paborden did you ever find anything that came close to this large scale herringbone? I've been on the look out myself after you posted it a while ago and am curious to see what you've come up with...the only thing that I've come a cross is sort of similar (but it looks like its a touch darker) the W Bill WB21703 in their classic coating bunch

@Despos or @dieworkwear any idea where to find a large scale herringbone overcoat fabric like this?

You can check W Bill Coating (probably the most comprehensive bunch), Dugdale Bros coating, Fox Bros, and Caccioppoli coating. You will find some, for sure.
I fell in love with W Bill from The Phantom Thread so I'm now waiting for a raglan coat in that fabric. Really fabulous.

 

[smittycl]

Why not go to Nordstrom’s and get it MTO?

Not a bad idea. I didn't know Hickey did MTO overcoats. I keep hoping I'll stumble on a good RTW coat but no luck so far. I ordered a B Corner from the Rake but it was awful and I sent it back.

Does Nordstrom do MTM Hickey Freeman all the time or just at special events?

 

[smittycl]

Summer Tweed and Slubby Oxford — Die, Workwear!

A couple of years ago, after having no success trying to find raw silk jacketing, I organized a custom-run of linen-silk fabric modeled after Taka’s jacket pictured above. The cloth mimics the slubby texture of raw silk jacketings from yesteryear — which are impossible to find today outside of...

dieworkwear.com

Pretty cool. Thinking of having a sport coat made.

 

[lordsuperb]

Not a bad idea. I didn't know Hickey did MTO overcoats. I keep hoping I'll stumble on a good RTW coat but no luck so far. I ordered a B Corner from the Rake but it was awful and I sent it back.

Does Nordstrom do MTM Hickey Freeman all the time or just at special events?

All the time but you won't get the discount if you don't go during the mtm event.

Summer Tweed and Slubby Oxford — Die, Workwear!

A couple of years ago, after having no success trying to find raw silk jacketing, I organized a custom-run of linen-silk fabric modeled after Taka’s jacket pictured above. The cloth mimics the slubby texture of raw silk jacketings from yesteryear — which are impossible to find today outside of...

dieworkwear.com

Pretty cool. Thinking of having a sport coat made.

That silk linen wears hot in the DC summers.

 

[smittycl]

All the time but you won't get the discount if you don't go during the mtm event.



That silk linen wears hot in the DC summers.

Will query Nordstrom on the next HF event. Thanks!

I had a Zegna silk-wool blend S/C a while back but I passed it on. Didn't wear hot so much as not keep its shape and was too shiny.

 

[venividivicibj]

DWW, did you ever post about the oxford cloth order in this thread?