Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread

[Alan Bee]

I have a wool gab suit from H&S. Mine is a 9oz cloth. It's pretty light and gab is slippery, so it can be hard to tailor. It hangs OK, I don't know if I would say it "hangs like steel."

@dieworkwear

Thank you Derek. Do you know of any gabardines at heavier weights (13oz and over)? And where they might be sourced? Everything I've seen so far is 9oz (260 grams) like your H&S.

Alan Bee

 

[dieworkwear]

@dieworkwear

Thank you Derek. Do you know of any gabardines at heavier weights (13oz and over)? And where they might be sourced? Everything I've seen so far is 9oz (260 grams) like your H&S.

Alan Bee

I don't, sorry.

 

[Mr. Six]

Having a pair of pants made from a grey wool-silk cav twill (probably around 9 oz).

 

[Alan Bee]

Having a pair of pants made from a grey wool-silk cav twill (probably around 9 oz).

@Mr. Six

What brand is the cloth? Were you dead set on 9oz or did you look at anything heavier?

Alan Bee

 

[yanagi]

@dieworkwear

Thank you Derek. Do you know of any gabardines at heavier weights (13oz and over)? And where they might be sourced? Everything I've seen so far is 9oz (260 grams) like your H&S.

Alan Bee

I have not used it myself, but have you looked at Eskdale from Huddersfield?

Huddersfield Fine Worsteds Shop - Pieces in Eskdale Trousers Collection

shop.hfwltd.com

 

[Mr. Six]

@Mr. Six

What brand is the cloth? Were you dead set on 9oz or did you look at anything heavier?

Alan Bee

I got it from Ed. It might have been a Zegna fabric. I can’t remember at the moment. I wasn't looking for that weight. The fabric just seemed interesting , and it’s a good weight for most of the year in the Bay Area.

 

[Alan Bee]

I have not used it myself, but have you looked at Eskdale from Huddersfield?

Huddersfield Fine Worsteds Shop - Pieces in Eskdale Trousers Collection

shop.hfwltd.com

@yanagi

Yes I saw that already, thank you. They do carry 340 grams in Gab but the only colors that interest me there are the tan and olive. The rest are too dark for casual spring/summer odd pants

Alan Bee

 

[dan'l]

Please correct me if I’m wrong, but I thought that gaberdine tends to get shiny at wear points, such as the elbows. Any truth to that?

 

[dieworkwear]

Please correct me if I’m wrong, but I thought that gaberdine tends to get shiny at wear points, such as the elbows. Any truth to that?

Yes, that's the reputation. It's a little easier to hide this in lighter colors such as tan.

 

[patrickBOOTH]

What about the 9oz Lesser book? They have some twills in there, but I'm not sure if they are true Gabardines.

 

[Alan Bee]

What about the 9oz Lesser book? They have some twills in there, but I'm not sure if they are true Gabardines.

@patrickBOOTH

Booth, incidentally I’m wearing a Lesser Tropical 9oz 2pc suit (tobacco) today. While it’s a lovely fabric (amazing hand), it barely holds crease and doesn’t hang like steel as I tend to like my pants.

I was drawn to gabardine because as I understand it, it’s the perfect thing for odd dress trousers because it hold a mean crease and hangs like iron.

I’m looking for a spring/summer trousering that will be cut “Full and High Rise”. I really want the thing to “sway” when I walk. Lesser 8/9oz won’t give you that sway ...

I’ve seen 260gram Gabardine but can’t find heavier. Reading through the archives, Will Boehlke says the lighter stuff wrinkles like tissue paper. He recommends the 360 gram tho.

Alan Bee

 

[Bespoke DJP]

Dear @Alan Bee,

I trust you are well.

Zegna offers the "Gabardine - Trofeo" bunch which may satisfy your requirements. Unfortunately I cannot recall the fabric's exact composition and weight, and apart from August holidays, tomorrow in Greece is a significant religious holiday, so I could not ask on your behalf!

Wait..., haven't you made in the past a pair of trousers out of this bunch? You want something different, or were you dissatisfied?

Cheers,

Dimitris

 

[Alan Bee]

Dear @Alan Bee,

I trust you are well.

Zegna offers the "Gabardine - Trofeo" bunch which may satisfy your requirements. Unfortunately I cannot recall the fabric's exact composition and weight, and apart from August holidays, tomorrow in Greece is a significant religious holiday, so I could not ask on your behalf!

Wait..., haven't you made in the past a pair of trousers out of this bunch? You want something different, or were you dissatisfied?

Cheers,

Dimitris

@Bespoke DJP

Hey Dimitri’s, long time!

Indeed I had a cream pair made out of a Zegna cloth (which I was told is 8/9oz gabardine) but I doubt it’s Gab. I still wear it but I’m looking for something that hangs even heavier and better ...

Alan Bee

 

[lordsuperb]

@patrickBOOTH

Booth, incidentally I’m wearing a Lesser Tropical 9oz 2pc suit (tobacco) today. While it’s a lovely fabric (amazing hand), it barely holds crease and doesn’t hang like steel as I tend to like my pants.

I was drawn to gabardine because as I understand it, it’s the perfect thing for odd dress trousers because it hold a mean crease and hangs like iron.

I’m looking for a spring/summer trousering that will be cut “Full and High Rise”. I really want the thing to “sway” when I walk. Lesser 8/9oz won’t give you that sway ...

I’ve seen 260gram Gabardine but can’t find heavier. Reading through the archives, Will Boehlke says the lighter stuff wrinkles like tissue paper. He recommends the 360 gram tho.

Alan Bee

If you have access to the London Lounge see if anyone has a bolt of the Tan Piuma for sale. It’s a beautiful fabric at 10 oz, holds a crease, and feels cool against the skin.

 

[Alan Bee]

If you have access to the London Lounge see if anyone has a bolt of the Tan Piuma for sale. It’s a beautiful fabric at 10 oz, holds a crease, and feels cool against the skin.

@lordsuperb

Will do!