Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread

[Spaghettimatt]

There are additional factors to consider, but that's a really small amount of cloth. How will the suit be lined? What kind of pockets? SB or DB? Pleats? Cuffs? Does the cloth have a pattern? Or a nap/direction?

Thanks for your insightful reply. In short: SB, patch pocket, half lined, single pleat and cuff, no pattern.

I’m guessing it would be a borderline case but would need 3 to be safe.

 

[Bromley]

Cloth requirement goes up for: patch pockets, half-lined (depending on how your tailor does that), pleats, and cuffs. Also, cloth may have a direction even if it doesn't have a pattern, which would add to the requirement. Whoever's making your suit should be able to answer specifically. I always err on the safe side, though-- have seen a tailor able to replace a moth-holed patch pocket on an old jacket because they'd saved the leftover cloth. Not typical, but pretty cool.

 

[usctrojans31]

Does anyone know an alterations tailor who can fix the sleeve pitch in the us? I went back and forth with a tailor in Naples a while back & finally just gave up. Send it back 3 times. Thinking maybe will field in DC bc he does bespoke. But I’m unsure if he’ll be able to properly reattach the sleeve like a Neapolitan tailor. Or maybe ask a different Neapolitan tailor I’m working with to help me out. Thoughts? It really bothers me on an otherwise quite wearable suit.

Hopefully it's not the tailor we DMed about. Sam Wazin has done shoulder and armhole work for me, and it's been good. I'd give him a ring. He used to be in-house at Isaia NYC, and he's who The Armoury uses too.

 

[Despos]

Thanks for your insightful reply. In short: SB, patch pocket, half lined, single pleat and cuff, no pattern.

I’m guessing it would be a borderline case but would need 3 to be safe.

Will you be using a MTM service or a tailor who cuts the suit himself? MTM factories don't want to fool with short yardages and there is no extra room to allow for a possible flaw in the cloth. Not uncommon to find a flaw you have to cut around.
3 yards is doable but consult the maker. Even cutting/making side vents takes up cloth width.

 

[Spaghettimatt]

Will you be using a MTM service or a tailor who cuts the suit himself? MTM factories don't want to fool with short yardages and there is no extra room to allow for a possible flaw in the cloth. Not uncommon to find a flaw you have to cut around.
3 yards is doable but consult the maker. Even cutting/making side vents takes up cloth width.

Thanks Chris. It'll be a MTM service. Sounds like I'll need 3 meters bare minimum if that is the case, so 2.5m won't cut it. Good to know!

 

[aristoi bcn]

CMT question: I know the standard recommendation is 3.5-4 meters for a suit; 2.5 meters for a jacket, etc.

However, I'm a 34-35 extra short with a ~26" inseam. Can I get away with 2.5 meters for a full suit? Any smaller folk have experience here?

Depends on the tailor. I'm a short 38 and my Neapolitan tailor can make a suit out of 3 meters and a jacket out of 1,65 meters.

 

[jonathanS]

Hopefully it's not the tailor we DMed about. Sam Wazin has done shoulder and armhole work for me, and it's been good. I'd give him a ring. He used to be in-house at Isaia NYC, and he's who The Armoury uses too.

Different Napoli tailor haha. This was from a year back or so. It was delivered around this time last year. Went up to New York twice & still didn’t get fixed. I’m considering going back one more time, but I have to have a reason to go to New York anyways. So we’ll see.

 

[Concordia]

My first thought is that Simon's Cifonelli had just been pulled out of a suitcase or shipping box. Not bad in the grand scheme of things, but a lot of small ripples, etc.

The other thing to remember is that Simon has a really weird body. I mean, when someone tells me my clothes don't look right, I congratulate them for avoiding seeing me naked.

 

[birdlives80]

Cavalry twill trousers in gray, is that a thing? I have them in olive green and have seen them mostly in tans and taupes. I want to branch out from gray flannel but pairing a navy sport coat with gray trousers is my go to. I was looking at Huddersfield, any other rec’s?

 

[dieworkwear]

Cavalry twill trousers in gray, is that a thing? I have them in olive green and have seen them mostly in tans and taupes. I want to branch out from gray flannel but pairing a navy sport coat with gray trousers is my go to. I was looking at Huddersfield, any other rec’s?

I have a pair of grey whipcords made from Dakota fabric. I think Will at ASW has cav twill in grey.

 

[birdlives80]

I have a pair of grey whipcords made from Dakota fabric. I think Will at ASW has cav twill in grey.

How smooth is the whipcord? I like the chunkiness of the cav twill but I could see the versatility of a more subtle weave so long as it’s still got character

 

[The Chai]

How smooth is the whipcord? I like the chunkiness of the cav twill but I could see the versatility of a more subtle weave so long as it’s still got character

I have a pair of the whip cords in the gray dakota h&s fabric myself. It quite smooth to the touch but it looks rough and mottled. Good for a pair off odd trousers imo

 

[dieworkwear]

How smooth is the whipcord? I like the chunkiness of the cav twill but I could see the versatility of a more subtle weave so long as it’s still got character

Hm I wouldn't call the weave chunky. It's kind of like a mottled twill.

I don't have the ref number anymore, but if you check out H&S Dakota book, you'll see a bunch of these options. Would say it has more character than cav twill, but still smooth enough to wear with almost anything

 

[Alan Bee]

GABARDINE TROUSERING

Gentlemen of Cloth,

Can anyone please point me to a good source for gabardine cloth for spring/summer odd trousers that will hang well (like steel). I'd ike to make this a "full-cut" trouser hence, drape qualities of the cloth very important.

I've seen a 260 gram version at both Huddersfield Fine Worsted and Dugdale Bros. Will 260 grams provide sufficient drape? If not, is there a source for heavier gabardine out there?

Alan Bee

 

[dieworkwear]

GABARDINE TROUSERING

Gentlemen of Cloth,

Can anyone please point me to a good source for gabardine cloth for spring/summer odd trousers that will hang well (like steel). I'd ike to make this a "full-cut" trouser hence, drape qualities of the cloth very important.

I've seen a 260 gram version at both Huddersfield Fine Worsted and Dugdale Bros. Will 260 grams provide sufficient drape? If not, is there a source for heavier gabardine out there?

Alan Bee

I have a wool gab suit from H&S. Mine is a 9oz cloth. It's pretty light and gab is slippery, so it can be hard to tailor. It hangs OK, I don't know if I would say it "hangs like steel."