Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread

[aristoi bcn]

Hmmm, I found a cashmere similar in texture that may work for me.
View attachment 1193671 .

I wouldn't say that the one you posted is a serge but...it's from Dormeuil? Delfino?

Very excited about funding this one. Vintage Reid & Taylor. Early fall or late spring weight I’d say. View attachment 1193753

Amazing cloth. I wish I could pull it off.

View attachment 1193780

I didn't know that W.Bill had cavalry twills...may I ask you which bunch it is?

 

[lordsuperb]

I wouldn't say that the one you posted is a serge but...it's from Dormeuil? Delfino?

Dormeuil

 

[aristoi bcn]

Dormeuil

Good product for sure but I don't know where it is made. I saw somewhere a Dormeuil selvedged pure cashmere that was allegedly made by Cerruti.

 

[TweedyProf]

Seems slightly pedantic telling this to a guy who’s been around as long as you, but I’ve been wearing a 0520 blazer while traveling this week, and while it feels a bit light (color-wise) in the fall I’m always amazed by its versatility and comfort in spring and summer. Basically up to 85 degrees, and I’ve worn it with a tie, with and open-collar linen-cotton shirt, and with a (nicely-collared) polo. Works fine in the latter settings but is really at home in the former two, which would seem to fit the professorial lifestyle.

Well, I'm all about being pedantic .

0520 though? Which fabric is this?

 

[dieworkwear]

0520 though? Which fabric is this?

I'm sorry, but I'm going to have to ask you to hand over your StyFo passport.

 

[TweedyProf]

I'm sorry, but I'm going to have to ask you to hand over your StyFo passport.

I suppose this is the world we live in now, hm?

 

[dieworkwear]

I suppose this is the world we live in now, hm?

More seriously 0520 is one of the blue Frescos. I think it was a forum favorite for a while.

I think Fresco is fine for a sport coat. There are some who think it's a bit suity, and I agree it's not as textured as an "ideal" sport coat fabric. I wear it all the time as SC and think the language about this stuff is mostly lost anyway. Meaning, no one is going to look at you and think you're wearing and orphaned suit jacket. It's not as suity as a Super 100s worsted or something. But Mock Leno (and weaves it like it) seem just as breathable and they're more textured.

 

[TweedyProf]

More seriously 0520 is one of the blue Frescos. I think it was a forum favorite for a while.

I think Fresco is fine for a sport coat. There are some who think it's a bit suity, and I agree it's not as textured as an "ideal" sport coat fabric. I wear it all the time as SC and think the language about this stuff is mostly lost anyway. Meaning, no one is going to look at you and think you're wearing and orphaned suit jacket. It's not as suity as a Super 100s worsted or something. But Mock Leno (and weaves it like it) seem just as breathable and they're more textured.

Thanks Derek. I've seen some coarse hopsacks or perhaps those were Mock Leno. Any other thoughts on coarser fabrics?

 

[dieworkwear]

Thanks Derek. I've seen some coarse hopsacks or perhaps those were Mock Leno. Any other thoughts on coarser fabrics?

For a navy summer sport coat, I would probably do Fresco or Mock Leno. There are a few companies right now doing Mock Leno type weaves. One is HFW, which is the actual Mock Leno that people here talk about. I can't remember the other two -- maybe Smiths and H&S? Solito showed them to me and they seemed like the Goldilocks thing. Mock Leno was right in the middle, whereas the other was softer with less body, and the third had more body but was less soft. I just went with the HFW version.

 

[ValidusLA]

For a navy summer sport coat, I would probably do Fresco or Mock Leno. There are a few companies right now doing Mock Leno type weaves. One is HFW, which is the actual Mock Leno that people here talk about. I can't remember the other two -- maybe Smiths and H&S? Solito showed them to me and they seemed like the Goldilocks thing. Mock Leno was right in the middle, whereas the other was softer with less body, and the third had more body but was less soft. I just went with the HFW version.

Is the HFW MockL that people here talk about the Snowflake IX book 320761-A? Or a different book?

 

[dieworkwear]

Is the HFW MockL that people here talk about the Snowflake IX book 320761-A? Or a different book?

I don't know the number or book of my fabric. I just asked for some navy summer sport coat options and Solito pulled out some Mock Leno weaves. On HFW, it looks like there are some Mock Lenos listed in both Fresco III and Snowflake though.

 

[Mr. Six]

@TweedyProf Another option to look at is the newish Indigo bunch from Harrisons. It has several shades of blue/navy and several textures. Light wool- linen blends. My memory of looking at the book at the last Steed visit is that they're quite nice. The photos so far look good as well.

 

[ericgereghty]

Grey or mid brown to tan trousers, blue or white shirt, tie, teaching apparel. Never with jeans.

I really love the Halstead mohair blend hopsack. Super crunchy texture.

Is the HFW MockL that people here talk about the Snowflake IX book 320761-A? Or a different book?

I believe they're adding a new Fresco book, so it may well end up there, but it is (was?) in the Fresco III book at last check.

 

[yanagi]

@TweedyProf , @ValidusLA , I consulted this thread previously when I was planning to commission a DB blazer. I'm 99% sure "the" HFW mock leno is 510244 in Fresco III.

Huddersfield Fine Worsteds Shop - Pieces in Fresco III Collection

shop.hfwltd.com

At least, that's what I ended up choosing.

 

[reidd]

Almost all the English merchants have a mockleno, most are between 9-13oz. The one from the Smith's Finmeresco book caught my eye and I'm planning on doing a DB blazer out of it in the near future.

Its been humid as hell in NYC this week and I've been putting my two 10oz Minnis Frescos to the test and they have performed pretty admirably. Would shudder to think about wearing them in this humidity if it were 10 degrees hotter though. Although at that point, your going to be uncomfortable no matter what.

Also, regarding the Crispaire; I have a very recent version of this in a trouser and I have to say I've been really happy with it as well. It feels a lot different to the Minnis stuff so I'm not sure its really apples to apples to be honest. The Crispaire is certainly softer in the hand but I don't think it really gives anything up in terms of wear wrinkle resistance or breath-ability. It's certainly a more "modern" feeling cloth than the Minnis.