Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread

[Concordia]

London Lounge sold a run or two of linen that weight.

It looked and felt pretty good. Linen will breathe and absorb humidity very well, so even the 15oz will have its virtues. Certainly the 11oz stuff will have a shot of wearing well in hot weather.

 

[lordsuperb]

Anybody ever have Dugdale's Crommelin linen made up in a jacket? Got a pair of Shibumi braces made up in the cloth, and I imagine it would make a really fun, tweedy type of summer sport coat...provided one could tolerate the weight.

Not Crommelin, but Paone is making up a Dugdale Lisburn linen suit for me. Lisburn is more porous than typical tightly woven Irish linen. Drapes well. Worth a try.

FWIW I have a Solbiati 450g linen jacket which I use for shoulder seasons in HK. Not for the dog days of summer outdoors for sure but then nothing works in 30C plus 80% humidity.

London Lounge sold a run or two of linen that weight.

It looked and felt pretty good. Linen will breathe and absorb humidity very well, so even the 15oz will have its virtues. Certainly the 11oz stuff will have a shot of wearing well in hot weather.

If you check the spence bryson website you will notice all the linen swatches are the same.

 

[kolecho]

If you check the spence bryson website you will notice all the linen swatches are the same.

Dugdale Lisburn is very much like John England's porous linen weave. I believe Drake's linen field jacket is also made out of the same linen.

 

[lordsuperb]

Dugdale Lisburn is very much like John England's porous linen weave. I believe Drake's linen field jacket is also made out of the same linen.

What are your go to for shirts in the summer?

 

[reidd]

Dugdale have a great selection of Irish linens. I have just ordered a length from the "Natural Elements" which is about 9.5-10oz to have made up for the summer. Hoping I can get true heat of summer wear out of this.

 

[sensuki]

I have some odd trousers in Dugdale Natural Elements, in the Oatmeal shade.

I think it depends on the Climate. I live in Melbourne, Australia where summer temperatures can reach mid 40C and humidity is often high, and my body temperature runs on the hot side.

I have mostly worn the trousers in the 25-30 C with ~70% humidity and found that they were comfortable. The backside of the cloth is finished very smoothly so it feels very nice against the skin.

I have some casual pants in a Baird McNutt 228gsm linen and they are wearable into the 40s

 

[reidd]

Thanks that's helpful. I live in the South East USA so heat and humidity are a very real issue for me as well. I think 10oz is about as light as I would go in a linen for a full suit; which is the plan for this one. I went for 7304 the mid fawn. Hoping to be able to split it up for maximum wear.

 

[9thsymph]

I too am about to order a linen jacket for the summer heat and am thinking of definitely going 11oz or lighter. I don't see the virtue of heavy linen. No matter how it drapes the sleeves get super wrinkled, so I've always thought it looked strange to see suits and jackets that hold their shape in the body, but severely rumple in the sleeves. At least with the lighter stuff the whole damn thing gets rumpled and that just looks more coherent to me (and wears cooler...).

EDIT: But now after looking around a bit more I might go with an 8oz wool linen blend. Anyone have any stuff to report on from the Harrisons Indigo book?

 

[Concordia]

Haven't seen it in person, but I wonder if 20% linen will do much. Maybe add a look at the new Fox Air (heavier but reportedly very breezy).

 

[9thsymph]

Haven't seen it in person, but I wonder if 20% linen will do much. Maybe add a look at the new Fox Air (heavier but reportedly very breezy).

the indigo weaves looks super open, though, and at 8oz, even 100% wool would be quite cool. I think the 20% just adds a nice interest to the texture of the cloth while perhaps adding marginally to its coolness. Will def have a look at new Fox Air...

 

[ericgereghty]

Not sure of the beating this was subjected to, but this might run afoul of the look you're trying to avoid. Though based on this, I could conceive of the body adopting (perhaps a slightly lesser version) similar character to the sleeves.

 

[mactire]

Any Torontonians on here know of cloth merchants/sellers there at all? Or other recommendations?

 

[The J]

Hi all,

I’ve never posted in this thread but have lurked for a while now.

I’m thinking of having my first MTM commission for 3-4 season wear.

I was thinking of a light-ish to mid grey wool suit since I have charcoal already; I would like it made up of something on the lighter end of weight as I run hot. I think I would want to stick to the range of 12oz or below. I also would prefer something with some visual texture, so no very smooth worsteds.

As mentioned above however I know weave is also important. I live near SF but work in the city so at work it is usually no hotter than 70’s with a breeze in the dead of summer.

@Mr. Six has given me some very good suggestions and a few that have caught my eye are the finmeresco sw2723, Harrison fine classic 46727 and dugdale 8960.

Apologies for the essay but hopefully I could get some assistance!

Sorry edit: I should also mention I work at a wealth management firm so something that could fit in a not-so-strict business environment would be necessary.

Might be a little too late to the party but fwiw, I think the below 3 are my favourites. Not taking into account what weave you'd like, these are high twists and the ones I have experience with.

The Harrisons Frontier at 300g/10oz. Slightly drier hand and coarser feel to it, but nowhere near the Frescos and I like them. Ideal weight for me for the 3 seasons, but obviously geographic location dependent. Texture looks the most interesting out of the 3, to me.


H&S Crispaire at 380/310 / 9/10oz. It labelled as worsted, but appearance wise not very much so. I like how it looks appropriate for the office and/or outside as separates. Holds shape pretty well.


Drapers Ascot 370g/13oz. I love this one the most out of all, crease resistant and the texture is quite something when looked at closely. Slightly heavy however, but I wear them through the heights of summer at about >30degrees although I don't perspire too much.

 

[Alocin]

Might be a little too late to the party but fwiw, I think the below 3 are my favourites. Not taking into account what weave you'd like, these are high twists and the ones I have experience with.

The Harrisons Frontier at 300g/10oz. Slightly drier hand and coarser feel to it, but nowhere near the Frescos and I like them. Ideal weight for me for the 3 seasons, but obviously geographic location dependent. Texture looks the most interesting out of the 3, to me.
View attachment 1141064

H&S Crispaire at 380/310 / 9/10oz. It labelled as worsted, but appearance wise not very much so. I like how it looks appropriate for the office and/or outside as separates. Holds shape pretty well.
View attachment 1141065

Drapers Ascot 370g/13oz. I love this one the most out of all, crease resistant and the texture is quite something when looked at closely. Slightly heavy however, but I wear them through the heights of summer at about >30degrees although I don't perspire too much.
View attachment 1141066
View attachment 1141067

Thank you so much! You aren’t late at all.

That Drapers Ascot looks really nice and despite the weight I keep going back to it. And in my searches I came across the frontier as well. Thank you for the insight as well!

So far in my office I’ve noticed it’s even more casual than I had thought so that gives me a little more leeway in terms of texture and casual nature of fabric.

 

[Concordia]

Frontier is good for 3-season officewear.