Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread

[lordsuperb]

My current blazer that I'd wear to a casual wedding a 280/300g twill, all other things being equal, would a 380g plain weave linen run cooler than that? sorry to ask for the odd comparison, but trying to figure out if I am barking up the wrong tree all together here...I was always under the impression that linen was a cooler fabric option

If you don't have the linen (380g) washed before its made up it will feel stiff and heavy from the get go but will soften over time. I would actually try to wear a linen jacket in the 280-340g range as it will be noticeably lighter and somewhat softer. I've been wearing a linen jacket (280g) the past two summers in DC and don't have too many problems when its over 85 degrees. Also have a linen jacket from W. Bill (380g) which makes me sweat as soon as I put it on.

Check out the Harrison Mesolair (linen) collection they have some cool herringbone and glenplaid patterns that are light weight.

 

[classicalthunde]

If you don't have the linen (380g) washed before its made up it will feel stiff and heavy from the get go but will soften over time. I would actually try to wear a linen jacket in the 280-340g range as it will be noticeably lighter and somewhat softer. I've been wearing a linen jacket (280g) the past two summers in DC and don't have too many problems when its over 85 degrees. Also have a linen jacket from W. Bill (380g) which makes me sweat as soon as I put it on.

Check out the Harrison Mesolair (linen) collection they have some cool herringbone and glenplaid patterns that are light weight.

thanks for the input and suggestions! I'm sure if it works for you in DC than it should be fine for a slightly-less muggy Philly summer...maybe I will bite the bulled and pay more for the 310g version of the fabric, I am particularly fond of the check/windowpane pattern and think it'll make a fun neapolitan-style summer option

when you say washed, should i have the fabric dry cleaned first and then give it to the tailor? or do you mean wash it myself in the washer and then hang dry?

 

[smittycl]

Given the cost of that cloth, thats an unbelievable price. I mean, I believe you, its just shockingly low.

I'll dig up the old receipt from my email queue just to be sure I'm passing accurate info!

 

[lordsuperb]

thanks for the input and suggestions! I'm sure if it works for you in DC than it should be fine for a slightly-less muggy Philly summer...maybe I will bite the bulled and pay more for the 310g version of the fabric, I am particularly fond of the check/windowpane pattern and think it'll make a fun neapolitan-style summer option

when you say washed, should i have the fabric dry cleaned first and then give it to the tailor? or do you mean wash it myself in the washer and then hang dry?

Haha, you can hand wash linen, or put them in the washer machine. I do it all the time with my linen pents. I wouldn't worry too much about washing the lighter fabrics they soften up pretty fast. Just let your tailor handle everything. What fabric book are you ordering from?

 

[classicalthunde]

Haha, you can hand wash linen, or put them in the washer machine. I do it all the time with my linen pents. I wouldn't worry too much about washing the lighter fabrics they soften up pretty fast. Just let your tailor handle everything. What fabric book are you ordering from?

good to know! I was interested in this navy check/windowpane fabric...it seems there are a couple of versions from different merchants in 285g/310g/380g weights

 

[lordsuperb]

good to know! I was interested in this navy check/windowpane fabric...it seems there are a couple of versions from different merchants in 285g/310g/380g weights

That pattern is hard to pull off. Keep it simple.

 

[The J]

I was planning to use this for a DB navy business suit but now I’m wondering whether I need something a bit more ‘refined’. This looks very similar to hopsack in texture

I would not discount the whole idea just yet. It looks like that only when I focus the camera on the texture from a very very close distance. Otherwise it works just as fine as a suit to me.

 

[mactire]

For those of you located in the EU, are you buying and hoarding English cloth, in advance of a potential no-deal Brexit?

I’m wondering how e-commerce sites like Huddersfield will be impacted. Of course it shouldn’t be different than ordering from say the US, but perhaps processing orders will take longer and it will be necessary to pay duty in EU countries.

In the event of no-deal the supply chains would grind to a halt and delivery pricing would go up due to the extra pricing.

There wouldn't be much in the way of duty to be paid as cloth has only an 8% tariff I think. You would have to pay VAT though at the rate of the country of destination, instead of UK VAT.

 

[kolecho]

thanks for the input and suggestions! I'm sure if it works for you in DC than it should be fine for a slightly-less muggy Philly summer...maybe I will bite the bulled and pay more for the 310g version of the fabric, I am particularly fond of the check/windowpane pattern and think it'll make a fun neapolitan-style summer option

when you say washed, should i have the fabric dry cleaned first and then give it to the tailor? or do you mean wash it myself in the washer and then hang dry?

Look for Caccioppoli or Carnet linens. Their weaves are more open and weight is around 330-350g. Very breathable and great for jackets.

Dugdale Lisburn is also good at around 350g. Very open weave for an Irish linen and drapes very well.

 

[Bromley]

That pattern is hard to pull off. Keep it simple.

View attachment 1126480

There's a lot of cool stuff in the Mersolair bunch. I like how weird some of those cloths are. I'm having some pants made up in one of the 17 oz. linens right now.

Have you seen anything from Spence Bryson (Ulster Weavers)? A lot of checked and patterned linen, and really inexpensive.

 

[sebastian mcfox]

I would not discount the whole idea just yet. It looks like that only when I focus the camera on the texture from a very very close distance. Otherwise it works just as fine as a suit to me. View attachment 1126481

That looks great - I’m now(re)convinced!

 

[tim_horton]

That pattern is hard to pull off. Keep it simple.

That dark navy glen plaid is so tasty.

 

[Jamesbond1]

Has anyone here commissioned H&S fabric with Teclana?

I need an unlined sport coat for summer heat and humidity in Greece.

I also have Reda Wool/ Linen 260 G/M or VBC Summer Kid Mohair/ Wool 230 G/M as my other two option presented by my tailor.

 

[Knox]

Does anybody have any remaining stock of Minnis #0305 (from the older flannel book)?

Also: any sources for a bold, deeply etched navy serge (worsted) ? Not the more frequently seen fine ribbed serge.

 

[smittycl]

Has anyone here commissioned H&S fabric with Teclana?
I need an unlined sport coat for summer heat and humidity in Greece.
I also have Reda Wool/ Linen 260 G/M or VBC Summer Kid Mohair/ Wool 230 G/M as my other two option presented by my tailor.

Never heard of it but am suspicious of all things synthetic for anything other than sportswear.