Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread

[aristoi bcn]

Most suiting cloth books have 3 shades of plain grey. That makes it easy to describe them as dark/mid/light grey. But what if the book has 4 or more shades of grey? I know there are charcoal and oxford grey colours but I was never able to know what shades are they referring to. Conclusion: I end up ordering cloth lengths for trousers of all grey shades available, and that increases my unfunded liabilities to an insane degree.

 

[Concordia]

Funny about the relativity of color judgements. The glimpse of the lower left fabric is of finmeresco 2730 which I would have thought light grey from the web pic, but the trousers I have in that fabric reads mid grey to me, perhaps on the “lighter” side. Mid grey for me requires a good but not extreme contrast with navy on the lightness scale, as in the above botany/archive flannel contrast. I wouldn’t want the grey to be too much darker. I think the above pic of the archive flannel bleaches on the lightness scale as well.

View attachment 1094316

View attachment 1094315

As with "middle class", there are many shades and variants. Between light grey and charcoal (which some London shops say is lighter than Oxford or dark grey-- go figure) is a fair bit of ground to cover.

 

[Stugotes]

We have taken to calling this cloth the Gulf Racing jacket. The picture you have posted does no justice to this swatch in person and there should be a jacket to share with you all in the next few months. I have a friend who is waiting to pull the trigger as other items clear the queue.

Did this come to fruition? Still very interested.

 

[reidd]

A couple of lengths that have just arrived from England.

First is a 15/16 oz cavalry twill. Color is a true navy. I had envisioned this as a winter BlazerSuit to compliment the fresco I have for summer. This cav strangely has a bit of sheen to it though so wondering if maybe it might work better as a straight up blazer in either DB with brown horn buttons or SB with brass. What do you guys think?


This POW is about 10oz, very soft handle. Sort of a spring/early fall cloth I guess. I am tempted to go DB but I imagine that would be significantly less wearable than SB.

 

[Skanstull]

A couple of lengths that have just arrived from England.

First is a 15/16 oz cavalry twill. Color is a true navy. I had envisioned this as a winter BlazerSuit to compliment the fresco I have for summer. This cav strangely has a bit of sheen to it though so wondering if maybe it might work better as a straight up blazer in either DB with brown horn buttons or SB with brass. What do you guys think?
View attachment 1096298

This POW is about 10oz, very soft handle. Sort of a spring/early fall cloth I guess. I am tempted to go DB but I imagine that would be significantly less wearable than SB.
View attachment 1096292

Which merchant/book is the Pow? Looks great.

 

[jonathanS]

A couple of lengths that have just arrived from England.

First is a 15/16 oz cavalry twill. Color is a true navy. I had envisioned this as a winter BlazerSuit to compliment the fresco I have for summer. This cav strangely has a bit of sheen to it though so wondering if maybe it might work better as a straight up blazer in either DB with brown horn buttons or SB with brass. What do you guys think?
View attachment 1096298

This POW is about 10oz, very soft handle. Sort of a spring/early fall cloth I guess. I am tempted to go DB but I imagine that would be significantly less wearable than SB.
View attachment 1096292

Pow Db for sure. No doubt.

 

[reidd]

Which merchant/book is the Pow? Looks great.

I picked these up from a jobber so these are likely not part of any current bunches. The product listing said the POW is by William Halstead and the twill is Bower Roebuck although neither selvedge is branded apart from the fabric composition on the POW.

 

[bdavro23]

Did this come to fruition? Still very interested.

No, he got cold feet. I did just check on it and there is still stock left with the distributor, so maybe there is still time to convince him. Are you thinking of having it made up? Maker and details?

 

[lordsuperb]

No, he got cold feet. I did just check on it and there is still stock left with the distributor, so maybe there is still time to convince him. Are you thinking of having it made up? Maker and details?

Is this in regards to the racing green linen? I never received my order!!!!!

 

[bdavro23]

Is this in regards to the racing green linen? I never received my order!!!!!

No, we're talking about this one:

 

[lordsuperb]

 

[bdavro23]

Noted. Though if you are a fan of auto racing, particularly nostalgic racing, the Gulf Motorsports team is pretty iconic and used colors similar to these. Thus the interest in this cloth.

 

[lordsuperb]

Anyone know where to source chambray?

 

[bamboo]

I think it depends on weight and type. Dressy one or casual one etc.
Testa should have it. I guess Canclini or Albiate (Albini brand) should have those too.

 

[Stugotes]

No, he got cold feet. I did just check on it and there is still stock left with the distributor, so maybe there is still time to convince him. Are you thinking of having it made up? Maker and details?

I haven‘t done anything yet, as I was looking for something made up from it before I order cloth worth 300€. Thank you anyway! May just order a length then.

I would probably have one of the Fiorentines make it up as a nice classic 3btn jacket.