Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread

[Slewfoot]

Hi Guys,

I will be having some trousers made up in a "jean style" with U-shaped front pockets and back patch pockets. They won't be able to have the rivets, but will still retain a casual feel.

I'm curious what fabrics people would recommend in heavyweight, sturdy cotton that would work well in this style. A heavyweight canvas or cavalry twill comes to mind.

I very much like the fabrics of Brisbane Moss, but they don't seem to have much above 320 grams. I'm thinking more 450 - 500 grams.

 

[Axelman 17]

Not saying this is a bad idea by any means but why not go for actual jeans?

 

[Eustace Tilley]

Hi Guys,
I will be having some trousers made up in a "jean style" with U-shaped front pockets and back patch pockets. They won't be able to have the rivets, but will still retain a casual feel.
I'm curious what fabrics people would recommend in heavyweight, sturdy cotton that would work well in this style. A heavyweight canvas or cavalry twill comes to mind.
I very much like the fabrics of Brisbane Moss, but they don't seem to have much above 320 grams. I'm thinking more 450 - 500 grams.

Cacciopolli Napoli has a selection called "Winter Cottons" which I think would work well for this.

 

[Manton]



Hi Guys,
I will be having some trousers made up in a "jean style" with U-shaped front pockets and back patch pockets. They won't be able to have the rivets, but will still retain a casual feel.
I'm curious what fabrics people would recommend in heavyweight, sturdy cotton that would work well in this style. A heavyweight canvas or cavalry twill comes to mind.
I very much like the fabrics of Brisbane Moss, but they don't seem to have much above 320 grams. I'm thinking more 450 - 500 grams.

drill

 

[Slewfoot]

Most jeans in general don't have a high rise and too slim. If you know of a maker of various shards of brown with a high rise and fuller leg I'm all ears.

I kind of have to need to make fabric decisions by Christmas so Doif anything with Naples might be tricky.

Who makes good quality heavy drill these days?

 

[Manton]

Drapers has good drill and it's everywhere. H&S also good

 

[Eustace Tilley]

Moleskin would be a good option as well, albeit a bit heavy. Though, I do think tailored pants in such a style would look a little weird.

Take a look at Grown & Sewn's KAX pants - a denim / khaki hybrid. Cut higher and not that slim.

 

[Axelman 17]

It does seem like a bit of a waste to bespeak such a casual pant. Have you looked at Cordings? Wide variety of moleskins, cords even jeans. Rise is very high but leg is pretty pegged - tapers to the bottom. I think it's a pretty flattering cut on me and I have the same rise issue with most jeans.

 

[Slickman]



Cacciopolli Napoli has a selection called "Winter Cottons" which I think would work well for this.

+1, nice stuff in that book

 

[Mr. Pink]



Most jeans in general don't have a high rise and too slim. If you know of a maker of various shards of brown with a high rise and fuller leg I'm all ears.

Levi's meatpacking district will custom make jeans however you want them, and some of the LVC from earlier years are both quite high-waisted and full through the leg.

 

[dieworkwear]



Most jeans in general don't have a high rise and too slim. If you know of a maker of various shards of brown with a high rise and fuller leg I'm all ears.

I'm not sure if they come in various shades of brown, but you can look into Levis Vintage Clothing's 1947 501 cut, and others like it (3Sixteen just came out with a somewhat similar cut).

Though, I think these are two completely different projects - a pair of jeans with a slightly higher rise and fuller cut, and then casual cotton drill pants made with jean pockets.

 

[coolpapa]



Levi's meatpacking district will custom make jeans however you want them, and some of the LVC from earlier years are both quite high-waisted and full through the leg.

Really? Any idea what that costs?

 

[Mr. Pink]

It's a bit ridiculous. Something around $600. But it also really is worth trying on some of the other LVC cuts. There's alot of variation. All the cuts prior to 1960's are reasonably high waisted, and the Cone mills denim is nice.

 

[coolpapa]



It's a bit ridiculous. Something around $600. But it also really is worth trying on some of the other LVC cuts. There's alot of variation. All the cuts prior to 1960's are reasonably high waisted, and the Cone mills denim is nice.

Ah, okay, thanks. I'm not a jeans freak, so I'll stick with RTW.

 

[Eustace Tilley]

It's a bit ridiculous. Something around $600. But it also really is worth trying on some of the other LVC cuts. There's alot of variation. All the cuts prior to 1960's are reasonably high waisted, and the Cone mills denim is nice.

Still cheaper than 3x1's "bespoke" denim that starts at $1,200!!