Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread

[aristoi bcn]

The problem with flannel above 350/370g is that for most of us will wear too warm in a standard office. I run cold and my old Minnis flannel suits (400g) feel slightly too warm. My 340g worsted flannel are more comfortable. I think 370g might be a good compromise between comfort and durability/hand/drape.

 

[jonathanS]

The problem with flannel above 350/370g is that for most of us will wear too warm in a standard office. I run cold and my old Minnis flannel suits (400g) feel slightly too warm. My 340g worsted flannel are more comfortable. I think 370g might be a good compromise between comfort and durability/hand/drape.

That’s the problem with fox heritage flannel, correct?

I looked up the weight on my drapers fabric, it’s 310g. Not sure about the Harrison’s fabric, lighter than the heritage flannel bust still quite robust. My guess is 400g (actually, I have a medium gray flannel & a db navy chalkstripe coming). I unintentionally went heavy on flannels this year & was thinking of doing one more. Only 1 worsted navy 450g suit (although flipping through the standeven heritage twist book, I was tempted by a 500g dark olive fabric).

 

[aristoi bcn]

Yes, that 550g Fox flannel posted earlier might be overkill in any office. For solely outdors wear might be fine in winter.

 

[The_Schmidt]

My 320/340g trousers feel like a good weight. I can imagine going a bit heavier, but absolutely not above 400g in my office setting.

 

[JohnMRobie]

On the subject of heavy worsteds - Does anyone have experience with Harrison’s Universal? Or suggestions on another heavy worsted with a navy nailhead/Birdseye.

 

[jonathanS]

This is a sample sent by my tailor of the flannel. It felt like the same weight. But after pressing a crease into it, it doesn’t take the crease the same, so I’m not sure if that is actually the same. At any rate it’s a heavy weight flannel & you’d suggest it’s too heavy for modern offices.

 

[jonathanS]

On the subject of heavy worsteds - Does anyone have experience with Harrison’s Universal? Or suggestions on another heavy worsted with a navy nailhead/Birdseye.

How heavy are you going?


14oz:

18 Oz:

I just trusted the tailor’s suggestion when I did the 450g. But these look awesome. I was considering doing the last fabric for an olive suit for the fall. But I’m not sure yet.

 

[JHWilliams]

You ordered out of the lady sanfelice flannel book right?

Yes, and it was a mistake.

 

[JHWilliams]

How often should one wear a flannel suit to avoid the crotch blowing out? Is worsted flannel any better?

Worsted flannel just isn’t the same. Wear your flannel suits gently and no more than once a week.

 

[JHWilliams]

On the subject of heavy worsteds - Does anyone have experience with Harrison’s Universal? Or suggestions on another heavy worsted with a navy nailhead/Birdseye.

I have two double breasted suits from this bunch. One is 19/20 ounces. The other is 18/19 ounces. They will outlive me. The cloth is old school English with a bone dry handle.

 

[JHWilliams]

I have two double breasted suits from this bunch. One is 19/20 ounces. The other is 18/19 ounces. They will outlive me. The cloth is old school English with a bone dry handle.

Both P & B Universal

 

[jonathanS]

Worsted flannel just isn’t the same. Wear your flannel suits gently and no more than once a week.

worsted flannel should wear better than woolen, right?

makes sense. Once / week seems like a good guideline.

Both P & B Universal

is that heavy weight worsted?

 

[JHWilliams]

worsted flannel should wear better than woolen, right?

makes sense. Once / week seems like a good guideline.



is that heavy weight worsted?

Yes, heavy weight worsted with just a touch of milling.

Worsted flannel will definitely be stronger than woolen, but I don’t think it’s worth it. If you want durability: go with a hard worsted. If you want the luxurious drape and comfort of a flannel: you’ll just have to put up with the fact that it will need to be looked after.

 

[Despos]

How often should one wear a flannel suit to avoid the crotch blowing out? Is worsted flannel any better?

No definitive answer.
Have seen the trousers blow out quickly or over years of wear.
Different for each individual.
My suit was from the Harrisons flannel book, lasted a few years. Wore it often but only 6-7 months of the year.

 

[JHWilliams]

The problem with flannel above 350/370g is that for most of us will wear too warm in a standard office. I run cold and my old Minnis flannel suits (400g) feel slightly too warm. My 340g worsted flannel are more comfortable. I think 370g might be a good compromise between comfort and durability/hand/drape.

Any flannel is going to be warm, regardless of weight. I find my 18 ounce flannel suits wear just as warm as my 12/13 ounce flannels. The weave and finishing is closed up tighter than a drum.

My office is damn cold (I’m a cheap Yankee) so I appreciate my 18 ounce flannels in the winter time