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The_Schmidt

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This is the classic bunch without cashmere. The 1772 bunch has 10 % cashmere and is a pleasure to wear.
That sounds very nice as well, will take a look at that bunch, too! Thx! I assume that despite the cashmere portion, it does not really loose durability?
 

JHWilliams

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That sounds very nice as well, will take a look at that bunch, too! Thx! I assume that despite the cashmere portion, it does not really loose durability?
A Flannel suit is not something you want to treat as a workhorse, regardless of cashmere content. Flannel is meant to be enjoyed for the comfort and soft drape that a worsted doesn’t provide.

You have to look after flannel, but it is well worth it. Commission one and enjoy it!!!
 

Despos

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A Flannel suit is not something you want to treat as a workhorse, regardless of cashmere content. Flannel is meant to be enjoyed for the comfort and soft drape that a worsted doesn’t provide.

You have to look after flannel, but it is well worth it. Commission one and enjoy it!!!
Agree with this. Flannel isn't delicate but it's not hard wearing. My last flannel suit was retired when the crotch wore thru and the cloth tore along the seat seam. When I replace the suit, will make 2 trousers. Jacket showed hardly any wear.
Not saying this to discourage anyone from ordering/wearing flannel but you want to have realistic expectations of what you're getting.
 
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double00

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Agree with this. Flannel isn't delicate but it's not hard wearing. My last flannel suit was retired when the crotch wore thru and the cloth tore along the seat seam. When I replace the suit, will make 2 trousers. Jacket showed hardy any wear.
Not saying this to discourage anyone from ordering/wearing flannel but you want to have realistic expectations of what you're getting.

flannel aside , in your experience how common is it to consider making up 2 trousers ?
 

Despos

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My knowledge of weaving cloth is limited.
One difference of a "jacket only" cloth and a cloth made for suitings or trousers is tensile strength of the yarn. This measures the amount of pressure or tension on the yarn before it reaches the breaking point and tears apart. This is one factor, there are probably others.

This applies to hopsacks and why some are for jackets and some can be made into trousers and suits.

Mock Leno is a different weave than hopsack. It's not a linear weave. The yarns are woven in a looping figure 8 type weaving pattern adding strength.
This keeps the yarns from stretching and still maintain an open weave.

Hopsack name came from burlap bags woven from jute, used to carry hops.
Thus the name hopsack. A sack for transporting hops.
 

Despos

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flannel aside , in your experience how common is it to consider making up 2 trousers ?
Have commented on this before. When I first started tailoring it was more common.
Still do it for clients but each client may have a different reason.

One reason is to have different styling details.
One pleated, one plain front.
Loops or no loops, maybe side straps.
Cuffs or no cuffs.
Different pocket choices.
As practical as this might sound, most clients end up wearing one style more by personal preferences and the other becomes an odd trouser if they wear it at all.

Some order two trousers and only wear one pair and save the other as a back up.

Some rotate wearing the trousers since there is more stress on the trouser, it prolongs the life of each pair and they wear evenly.

Some clients make up one pair and save the cloth for the second pair. Sometimes client gains or loses so much weight the trouser cannot be let out or taken in enough and they make up the second pair.
One client orders every suit with 3 trousers. Makes up 2 with the suit and saves the extra cloth as an emergency back up.

Currently the main reason my clients order 2 trousers is their weight fluctuates thru the year.
Make the trousers with a 1" or 1'5" difference in the waist/seat size.
They have a trouser to wear when their weight is up or when they lose.
They do this to avoid alterations and they are realistic that they cannot maintain their weight.
This is the reason most clients have currently.
 
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Despos

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That sounds very nice as well, will take a look at that bunch, too! Thx! I assume that despite the cashmere portion, it does not really loose durability?
Loro Piana has a 90/10, wool cashmere flannel that is excellent. It's around or just under 11 ounce.
Luxe hand and holds a crease.
Get cashmere blend if you want a more luxurious hand and cloth, worn for special purposes or events. Or for an everyday garment if you have a larger suit rotation.
Get 13/14 ounce worsted flannel for a basic everyday suit.
 

Bespoke DJP

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Loro Piana has a 90/10, wool cashmere flannel that is excellent. It's around or just under 11 ounce.
Luxe hand and holds a crease.
Get cashmere blend if you want a more luxurious hand and cloth, worn for special purposes or events. Or for an everyday garment if you have a larger suit rotation.
Get 13/14 ounce worsted flannel for a basic everyday suit.


I corroborate.

I do have a pair of trousers made of the said Loro Piana and another one made of its "competitor" from Piacenza, both 90%WO-10%WS at 300glm. They are two shades of mid-grey, as versatile as a garment can be with a very nice hand indeed; suitable for your Autumns and our Winters.


Best,

Dimitris
 

The_Schmidt

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A Flannel suit is not something you want to treat as a workhorse, regardless of cashmere content. Flannel is meant to be enjoyed for the comfort and soft drape that a worsted doesn’t provide.

You have to look after flannel, but it is well worth it. Commission one and enjoy it!!!

Loro Piana has a 90/10, wool cashmere flannel that is excellent. It's around or just under 11 ounce.
Luxe hand and holds a crease.
Get cashmere blend if you want a more luxurious hand and cloth, worn for special purposes or events. Or for an everyday garment if you have a larger suit rotation.
Get 13/14 ounce worsted flannel for a basic everyday suit.

I corroborate.

I do have a pair of trousers made of the said Loro Piana and another one made of its "competitor" from Piacenza, both 90%WO-10%WS at 300glm. They are two shades of mid-grey, as versatile as a garment can be with a very nice hand indeed; suitable for your Autumns and our Winters.


Best,

Dimitris

Thanks for all your responses.

I currently have no seasonal suits (sans the soon-to-be linen one, see "ongoing bespoke projects" threak), but only "three/four season" stuff. Plus a bunch of summer/winter jackets and trousers. However, it is more than enough that I wont need to wear anything more than once per month or probably even less.

Now coming to the winter stuff. With what I have commissioned for this winter, I feel like I am done with odd jackets/trousers, so I wanted to expand my wardrobe with winter suits and flannel came first to mind.
I have two trousers in LP Wool & Cashmere Flannel, which is 95/5 wool/cashmere and will have three in a similar H&S mix including the aforementioned "Superflannel" trousers. I am very satisfied with all of them to be honest, they all feel great.

For a suit I was considering dropping the cashmere part, but if the consensus here is that it also works well for a suit, I will look into that too. My current choice from Fox is a bit heavier (370g vs. 320/340 from LP/H&S) than what I have, but I believe it is still not too heavy.

Went through many of the LP bunches, but I cannot remember any bunch specifically with a 90/10 mix, could you please let me know which one that would be? Cashmere Wish is I think 94/6, but the wool is a Super 170s, which I fear might be too delicate.
 

jonathanS

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Have commented on this before. When I first started tailoring it was more common.
Still do it for clients but each client may have a different reason.

One reason is to have different styling details.
One pleated, one plain front.
Loops or no loops, maybe side straps.
Cuffs or no cuffs.
Different pocket choices.
As practical as this might sound, most clients end up wearing one style more by personal preferences and the other becomes an odd trouser if they wear it at all.

Some order two trousers and only wear one pair and save the other as a back up.

Some rotate wearing the trousers since there is more stress on the trouser, it prolongs the life of each pair and they wear evenly.

Some clients make up one pair and save the cloth for the second pair. Sometimes client gains or loses so much weight the trouser cannot be let out or taken in enough and they make up the second pair.
One client orders every suit with 3 trousers. Makes up 2 with the suit and saves the extra cloth as an emergency back up.

Currently the main reason my clients order 2 trousers is their weight fluctuates thru the year.
Make the trousers with a 1" or 1'5" difference in the waist/seat size.
They have a trouser to wear when their weight is up or when they lose.
They do this to avoid alterations and they are realistic that they cannot maintain their weight.
This is the reason most clients have currently.


How often should one wear a flannel suit to avoid the crotch blowing out? Is worsted flannel any better?
 

jonathanS

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Get 13/14 ounce worsted flannel for a basic everyday suit
Nevermind. This answered my previous question. Im assuming worsted is better than woolen flannel. But it has less character. I have an old Harrisons gray flannel & a drapers five star (worsted flannel?) coming this fall.

Has anyone had any experience with this fox 530/560gram flannel? Does it make up well as a suit? I’m thinking of doing a second gray flannel (db vs sb)



IMG_9048.jpeg
 

JHWilliams

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Thanks for all your responses.

I currently have no seasonal suits (sans the soon-to-be linen one, see "ongoing bespoke projects" threak), but only "three/four season" stuff. Plus a bunch of summer/winter jackets and trousers. However, it is more than enough that I wont need to wear anything more than once per month or probably even less.

Now coming to the winter stuff. With what I have commissioned for this winter, I feel like I am done with odd jackets/trousers, so I wanted to expand my wardrobe with winter suits and flannel came first to mind.
I have two trousers in LP Wool & Cashmere Flannel, which is 95/5 wool/cashmere and will have three in a similar H&S mix including the aforementioned "Superflannel" trousers. I am very satisfied with all of them to be honest, they all feel great.

For a suit I was considering dropping the cashmere part, but if the consensus here is that it also works well for a suit, I will look into that too. My current choice from Fox is a bit heavier (370g vs. 320/340 from LP/H&S) than what I have, but I believe it is still not too heavy.

Went through many of the LP bunches, but I cannot remember any bunch specifically with a 90/10 mix, could you please let me know which one that would be? Cashmere Wish is I think 94/6, but the wool is a Super 170s, which I fear might be too delicate.

Do not go under 13/14 ounces for flannel. I made the mistake of commissioning a Drapers VBC flannel. It is a lovely cloth but I wear it sparingly, as the cloth is just too delicate.
 

JHWilliams

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Nevermind. This answered my previous question. Im assuming worsted is better than woolen flannel. But it has less character. I have an old Harrisons gray flannel & a drapers five star (worsted flannel?) coming this fall.

Has anyone had any experience with this fox 530/560gram flannel? Does it make up well as a suit? I’m thinking of doing a second gray flannel (db vs sb)



View attachment 1969015

You may have a difficult time keeping a trouser crease with lambswool that heavy in weight.
 

jonathanS

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Do not go under 13/14 ounces for flannel. I made the mistake of commissioning a Drapers VBC flannel. It is a lovely cloth but I wear it sparingly, as the cloth is just too delicate.
You ordered out of the lady sanfelice flannel book right?
 

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