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JHWilliams

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Dear Gentlemen,

Two pertinent questions if you don't mind: how heavy was/is the LL Ultimate Blazer fabric?

Which exactly is its composition? If memory serves, I think it is a mix.


Best,

Dimitris
I believe it is around 15/16 ounces

Lambswool and angora mix.
 

jonathanS

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I believe it is around 15/16 ounces

Lambswool and angora mix.
I believe this is correct, I think I saw Alden wrote it was 400-450g
 

classicalthunde

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I may be saving that for something special. I don’t understand the concept of multiple blue blazers.

I think the idea is that blue blazer/sport coat, like grey trousers, is ubiquitous and can be used in a ton of different situations and easily used in different combo outfits. So, I have one for spring summer and a heavier one for fall winter so that I can wear them year round (although the stylistic details differ).

Loro Piana, dead stock, have had the cloth around 15 years.

used the cloth frequently with clients, saved one for me.

@Despos do you have any recommendations for a navy doeskin blazer? I have had a hard time finding anything in books labeled as such, but from what I remember doeskin used to be classic/common winter blazer cloth
 

Despos

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Haven't seen doeskin jacketing for a long, long time.
Do have a doeskin gabardine I use for trousers
 

Sreezy36

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Ultimate navy blazer is not a workhorse fabric and very soft. It is a woolen and worsted mix.

The heavy mock-Leno would be a good three season cloth

I was under the impression that the lambswool and angora blend is extremely durable. The softness of cashmere but the durability of a tweed. People on this thread have posted very positive experiences in regards to the durability of both “Moonbeam” and WBill “lamlana.” Same composition as the LL UNB cloth but at a much lighter weight.
 

jonathanS

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So, not something really extravagant as the Agnelli beige PoW "jacketing fabric" at 625glm.
I’m looking forward to having that fabric made up. I still haven’t gotten around to it, but it’s on the docket as I brought it to Milan last trip. I was just going to do a normal sports jacket.

I was under the impression that the lambswool and angora blend is extremely durable. The softness of cashmere but the durability of a tweed. People on this thread have posted very positive experiences in regards to the durability of both “Moonbeam” and WBill “lamlana.” Same composition as the LL UNB cloth but at a much lighter weight.

I wouldn’t say that lambswool & angora has the same softness of cashmere. Actually, it’s not close. Cashmere (and vicuña) are a lot of luxurious than lambswool & angora. But, it’s also reflected in the price.

Ultimate navy blazer fabric, imo, is nicer than the moonbeam or lamlana from what I felt / recall. But, not saying those are bad.
 

brax

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What didn’t he like about the ultimate navy blazer? It drapes very well. Usually tailors don’t like the tissue paper cloth.
I’m not really certain. He always held a stash of unfunded liabilities that we would later use. When I sent him the LL blazer jacketing, he suggested that I sell it (which I did) as he did not like it.
 

Despos

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I’m not really certain. He always held a stash of unfunded liabilities that we would later use. When I sent him the LL blazer jacketing, he suggested that I sell it (which I did) as he did not like it.
@brax
The person you sold it to is selling it.
It may have the "pink tie" syndrome
 

The_Schmidt

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When visiting my tailor today for the 3rd fitting of my linen suit (details in the bespoke thread tomorrow or Sunday), I also pulled the trigger on that "Superflannel" for winter trousers. It seems like a really nice fabric, the bit of cashmere makes it soft yet it should not be too delicate.

And, I am very heavily considering to get a winter suit made of this:
IMG_9348.jpeg


In real life it is not as blue as in the picture, though. Anyone got any experience with that? The look and feel are really good to me and the weight seems also to be just in the right spot.
 

LJ1891

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Hi

Would anybody be able to point me in the direction of where to find similarly sized houndstooth mid weight jacketing?
16B5CB6B-B9B0-46ED-A909-7FAB696F26B2.jpeg
 
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JHWilliams

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When visiting my tailor today for the 3rd fitting of my linen suit (details in the bespoke thread tomorrow or Sunday), I also pulled the trigger on that "Superflannel" for winter trousers. It seems like a really nice fabric, the bit of cashmere makes it soft yet it should not be too delicate.

And, I am very heavily considering to get a winter suit made of this:
View attachment 1968093

In real life it is not as blue as in the picture, though. Anyone got any experience with that? The look and feel are really good to me and the weight seems also to be just in the right spot.
This is the classic bunch without cashmere. The 1772 bunch has 10 % cashmere and is a pleasure to wear.
 

jonathanS

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jonathanS

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this is going to sound like a really dumb question, but what is hopsack?

This is my understanding: a lot of times, mock Leno gets lumped into the hopsack category. But hopsack can be a jacket or suit, depending upon how open weave it is, correct? @Despos posted a few days ago about hopsack, & it got me thinking. What is the actual definition? Is a basket weave (mock Leno) considered a hopsack? Mock Leno is more open weave than some hopsack from what I’ve seen. As despos mentioned, drapers placed hopsack in the formalwear book, which indicates (to me, and correct me if I’m wrong) that it could be used for a suit. Standeven has 2 hopsack fabrics in their formalwear book as well, one dark midnight, the other navy.

So excuse me if this is a stupid question, just trying to understand / make sure my understanding is correct.
 

classicalthunde

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this is going to sound like a really dumb question, but what is hopsack?

This is my understanding: a lot of times, mock Leno gets lumped into the hopsack category. But hopsack can be a jacket or suit, depending upon how open weave it is, correct? @Despos posted a few days ago about hopsack, & it got me thinking. What is the actual definition? Is a basket weave (mock Leno) considered a hopsack? Mock Leno is more open weave than some hopsack from what I’ve seen. As despos mentioned, drapers placed hopsack in the formalwear book, which indicates (to me, and correct me if I’m wrong) that it could be used for a suit. Standeven has 2 hopsack fabrics in their formalwear book as well, one dark midnight, the other navy.

So excuse me if this is a stupid question, just trying to understand / make sure my understanding is correct.

My understanding is that hopsack is 2x2 weave vs a 1x1 for a plain weave, thereby giving it a bit more texture.

I’m not quite sure what the difference is between hopsack suiting and hopsack jacketing. My understanding is that the weave is the same but suiting doesn’t have as much of a pronounced texture as the jacketing. I wonder if it’s due to the size of the thread or the tightness of the weave

This is a helpful breakdown of the different weaves with some good illustrations:

 
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