Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread

[FlowableFill]

I have a suit made from a W. Bill 13/14 oz linen. It's not fun in the heat. I wore it to an outside wedding last year with temps in the 90s and was miserable.

 

[camez_]

It's just too heavy and not really open weaved because of the density of the linen.

I'd suggest a lighter high twist around 300g for these endeavors

 

[jonathanS]

I have a suit made from a W. Bill 13/14 oz linen. It's not fun in the heat. I wore it to an outside wedding last year with temps in the 90s and was miserable.

Backup, nothing is fun in the heat. A tshirt isn’t fun in the heat.

 

[lordsuperb]

Like solaro (though admittedly a bit less so), I don't think I believe anybody who says heavy linen truly wears cool. I have a fully unlined Solbiati (I think maybe 15oz?) suit that wears dramatically warmer than, say, a similar/slightly lighter weight high twist.
If you run icebox cold, you'll be fine. Otherwise, if you're in a hardcore summery climate, it's gonna be a ***** and a half to wear. Though, to be fair, the same can really be said of any proper tailoring in harsh climates.

I have a suit made from a W. Bill 13/14 oz linen. It's not fun in the heat. I wore it to an outside wedding last year with temps in the 90s and was miserable.

It's just too heavy and not really open weaved because of the density of the linen.

I'd suggest a lighter high twist around 300g for these endeavors

shorts and t shirts kiddos

 

[jonathanS]

Like solaro (though admittedly a bit less so), I don't think I believe anybody who says heavy linen truly wears cool. I have a fully unlined Solbiati (I think maybe 15oz?) suit that wears dramatically warmer than, say, a similar/slightly lighter weight high twist.
If you run icebox cold, you'll be fine. Otherwise, if you're in a hardcore summery climate, it's gonna be a ***** and a half to wear. Though, to be fair, the same can really be said of any proper tailoring in harsh climates.

Solaro is just hot. It’s a fall / spring fabric. Maybe winter too. Look at the weight & it’s a twill (doesn’t breath)

 

[ericgereghty]

shorts and t shirts kiddos

This is the truth of it all. And, arguably, a reason to go for linen if you really want to. You're in DC, right? In the dog days, anything (up to and including nudity) sucks. No form of tailoring will feel good.

Solaro is just hot. It’s a fall / spring fabric. Maybe winter too. Look at the weight & it’s a twill (doesn’t breath)

100% agreed. Would easily be winter worthy for me. But, again, it's a "summer" cloth according to menswear. Which is of course absolutely wrong, but it does look neat in direct sun.

 

[jonathanS]

This is the truth of it all. And, arguably, a reason to go for linen if you really want to. You're in DC, right? In the dog days, anything (up to and including nudity) sucks. No form of tailoring will feel good.

100% agreed. Would easily be winter worthy for me. But, again, it's a "summer" cloth according to menswear. Which is of course absolutely wrong, but it does look neat in direct sun.

I have experimented with a linen cotton tshirt. I will report back this summer. Still anticipate it to be hot, but I wouldn’t be surprised if it wicks moisture a bit better than cotton.

 

[kolecho]

Solaro is just hot. It’s a fall / spring fabric. Maybe winter too. Look at the weight & it’s a twill (doesn’t breath)

Yes, I don't know why Solaro is a summer fabric. Maybe it's for UK summer.

 

[classicalthunde]

Yes, I don't know why Solaro is a summer fabric. Maybe it's for UK summer.

I think its just been mischaracterized over the years...if I recall correctly, it was designed for British troops in India and the double colored weave was supposed to reflect the sunlight to protect the troops and not necessarily due to its breathability or propensity to run cool

 

[Bespoke DJP]

Re: Solaro

I agree with all of your points, dear gentlemen.

However, is the original Solaro "misunderstood"? I believe no! Everyone who's wearing it in - say - the summer Pitti exhibition is sweating like an athlete during training but they say nothing because it is/was(?) in vogue; it's one of those fads generated and amplified by various menswear internet "personas", bloggers, etc, etc.

It is inconceivable to wear with comfort a winter-weight suit during summer, or even late spring; it may be (for some climates only) bearable during the early spring with the chill still holding during the early morning and late evening hours, but just that.

As far as sun reflecting is concerned, Ermenegildo Zegna has put a lot of technology for some years now in its High Performance "Cool Effect" line, a genuine sun reflecting, summer 100%wool fabric at the summer-appropriate 230 glm.

It has been updated & upgraded (I have only the old version), check it with your tailors gentlemen!


Best,

Dimitris

 

[heldentenor]

Yes, I don't know why Solaro is a summer fabric. Maybe it's for UK summer.

This, for so much of tailored clothing. I often think that the reason so many of the well dressed guys live in Sweden, San Francisco, and the UK is that "summer" means 68F/20C in those places. Not only can you wear tailoring year round at those temps, but the differences aren't in weight so much as color and texture. Everything looks better at 12/13oz than at 8oz.

There's no tailoring on Earth that feels good when it's 90F and even moderately humid.

 

[ericgereghty]

This, for so much of tailored clothing. I often think that the reason so many of the well dressed guys live in Sweden, San Francisco, and the UK is that "summer" means 68F/20C in those places. Not only can you wear tailoring year round at those temps, but the differences aren't in weight so much as color and texture. Everything looks better at 12/13oz than at 8oz.

There's no tailoring on Earth that feels good when it's 90F and even moderately humid.

Have you heard of Mockleno?

 

[Concordia]

To make suits of any sort more comfy in the summer, make sure to wear linen shirts, socks, and (if you can find them) boxer shorts. Do all of that and good Irish linen tailoring will do its job much better. Fine-weave cotton is the pits in humid weather.

 

[jonathanS]

This, for so much of tailored clothing. I often think that the reason so many of the well dressed guys live in Sweden, San Francisco, and the UK is that "summer" means 68F/20C in those places. Not only can you wear tailoring year round at those temps, but the differences aren't in weight so much as color and texture. Everything looks better at 12/13oz than at 8oz.

There's no tailoring on Earth that feels good when it's 90F and even moderately humid.

Yes, I was talking to one of my tailors and he really liked his solaro in Amsterdam during the summer. But in America, Italy, France, etc, you’ll be sweating more than a stripper in church wearing solaro during the summer

 

[brax]

I’ve gone a bit overboard with Smith Solaro (three suits) but I enjoy them in early spring and late fall.