Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread

[TheLawBeard]

I am finally getting around to figuring out what to do with the last meters of the original Scabal Shetland, which I bought from “sartorial notes” back when it was still Grunwald True Style. I’ve given the sage green barleycorn to A&S and have no picture yet and may do the same with this one.

I'd be tempted to do something "rugged" or "frumpy" with that length. An unstructured leisurely coat.

 

[DorianGreen]

Even I want to get a hold of the middle two

Certainly the most interesting of the bunch.

 

[kolecho]

I am finally getting around to figuring out what to do with the last meters of the original Scabal Shetland, which I bought from “sartorial notes” back when it was still Grunwald True Style. I’ve given the sage green barleycorn to A&S and have no picture yet and may do the same with this one.

It's quite loosely woven so definitely a more casual jacket but keep the canvassing or it will lose shape in no time.

 

[AriGold]

Just ordered a MTM Armoury x Ring Jacket Model 6 Double Breasted Suit in this W. Bill Linen below - adding smoke mother of pearl buttons too. I hear good things about W Bill Linen so I hope I can wear this casually as a seperate.

Wondering if I should also do a Tobacco Linen... does DB work for linen or should I stick to Single breasted?

 

[Concordia]

The heavy Irish linen takes a little time to break in, depending on how it is made. But there are lots of good-looking linen DB suits.

 

[ericgereghty]

Just ordered a MTM Armoury x Ring Jacket Model 6 Double Breasted Suit in this W. Bill Linen below - adding smoke mother of pearl buttons too. I hear good things about W Bill Linen so I hope I can wear this casually as a seperate.

Wondering if I should also do a Tobacco Linen... does DB work for linen or should I stick to Single breasted?

It works, though I've never been a fan of the tobacco shade. I think I would like it even less in a DB.

 

[Master Shake]

Just ordered a MTM Armoury x Ring Jacket Model 6 Double Breasted Suit in this W. Bill Linen below - adding smoke mother of pearl buttons too. I hear good things about W Bill Linen so I hope I can wear this casually as a seperate.

Wondering if I should also do a Tobacco Linen... does DB work for linen or should I stick to Single breasted?

I've always liked this look:

 

[brax]

Just ordered a MTM Armoury x Ring Jacket Model 6 Double Breasted Suit in this W. Bill Linen below - adding smoke mother of pearl buttons too. I hear good things about W Bill Linen so I hope I can wear this casually as a seperate.

Wondering if I should also do a Tobacco Linen... does DB work for linen or should I stick to Single breasted?

Tobacco linen is probably my favorite. I commission linen suits exclusively as SB but wouldn’t try to talk you out of a DB commission if you wanted one.

 

[FlithyButler]

GABARDINE

How do you identify gabardine, specifically, over other types of twill?

Also, can it be either a left-hand or a right-hand twill etc?

 

[vezzmag]

Hi guys, I'm planning to get an Irish linen cream suit from W.Bill, but I'm not sure about the exact cloth code, can someone please help me with this? I think it's 61312, but could be wrong.
Also does anyone know the equivalent of that to Spence Bryson?
Thank you very much!

 

[AriGold]

The heavy Irish linen takes a little time to break in, depending on how it is made. But there are lots of good-looking linen DB suits.

How do these 12/13oz linens feel in summer? are they too heavy to wear cool enough?

 

[Concordia]

Hard to say. I run warm and don't mind them. But they are not light. The main virtue is that they hoover up humidity like it's going out of style.

 

[camez_]

i just got the info (although this is 2 weeks old news) that marling & evans no longer offers their cut length service and all the stock will be supplied by dugdale bro's in the future.

very interesting to see this partnership

 

[classicalthunde]

i just got the info (although this is 2 weeks old news) that marling & evans no longer offers their cut length service and all the stock will be supplied by dugdale bro's in the future.

very interesting to see this partnership

Damn, should have picked up the length when I was thinking about it this winter, now it’s gonna be 2x the price

 

[ericgereghty]

How do these 12/13oz linens feel in summer? are they too heavy to wear cool enough?

Like solaro (though admittedly a bit less so), I don't think I believe anybody who says heavy linen truly wears cool. I have a fully unlined Solbiati (I think maybe 15oz?) suit that wears dramatically warmer than, say, a similar/slightly lighter weight high twist.
If you run icebox cold, you'll be fine. Otherwise, if you're in a hardcore summery climate, it's gonna be a ***** and a half to wear. Though, to be fair, the same can really be said of any proper tailoring in harsh climates.