Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread

[Baked Potato]

I’ve got a navy double breasted suit in the works using this 370g Drapers 4-ply https://drapersitaly.it/us-en/collection/18059/. Hoping I’ll get a lot of use out of it, concerned it’ll be neither here nor there—a classic business suit that’s a little too attention grabbing because it’s a DB, a warm weather fabric in a cut that might wear hot. We’ll see.

Is it a VBC fabric? Can't seem to find it on VBC's website. My tailor uses VBC as one of their main suppliers, so would be good if I could check it out in store.

 

[Nico]

Okay so this is a question that's already most likely beaten to death in this thread but here I go.

I am planning to commission a business suit, something quite sombre and conservative, to be made by Whitcomb & Shaftesbury.

I am looking for top-quality dark navy cloth recommendations, something hard-wearing, to be worn in the autumn/winter/spring here in the UK. I was thinking c.13oz is a good all-around weight for this purpose.

I've done some digging in the thread and I've identified a few potential candidates:

- Lesser's No.303 13oz
- Smith's Botany 12/13 oz
- Harrison's Oyster 13oz
- Minnis Classic II / Crown Classic

I haven't seen samples in person yet so I don't have any real impressions of either but instinctively I've been leaning towards the Lesser's 13oz.

I'd be really grateful for some first-hand impressions and, of course, any other advice - have I missed something else that's worthwhile?

Fox recently issued some new worsted cloths: https://www.themerchantfox.co.uk/collections/worsted-classics-mixed-weights

T&L have some good classic ones here too: https://www.taylorandlodge.com/shop-iconic

Both mills will send you samples.

 

[reidd]

Gentlemen, I have a question. I searched high & low through the forum to find out more information On Eurotex but cannot find any conclusive opinions.

specifically, I am looking at a dead stock hopsack (possibly mockleno?) one of my tailors has. When compared to the dugdale and Minnis mock Leno, it has a softer hand but, perhaps, may not be as hard-wearing.

thats common theme for Italian fabrics, however. So does anyone have any experience / opinions about Eurotex? How does it compare to drapers/ariston/cacciapolli?

Eurotex are good from what I have seen but yes hard to get much info on them. Many or even most of their books are made in England I believe. No idea which mills they use but probably a host of the smaller Huddersfield ones. Mostly somewhat vintage looking patterns if that is your cup of tea.

 

[bjhofkin]

Is it a VBC fabric? Can't seem to find it on VBC's website. My tailor uses VBC as one of their main suppliers, so would be good if I could check it out in store.

Basically everything Drapers is VBC – think of Drapers as the storefront for VBC. So use the Drapers website to look at any VBC cloth you're interested in.

 

[camez_]

Basically everything Drapers is VBC – think of Drapers as the storefront for VBC. So use the Drapers website to look at any VBC cloth you're interested in.

basically this is correct - will help with another comparison
take a look at standeven - they're the cut-length service for a lot of other brands like william halstead, kynoch or escorial

the same applies to draper's - they're the cut length service of their own brand and VBC's - although you cannot get certain VBC cloth that is only sold in wholesale b2b style (don't bother with this)

 

[lordsuperb]

Raglan overcoats, let’s talk about it. Which cloth is better suited for a coat of this nature?

 

[classicalthunde]

Raglan overcoats, let’s talk about it. Which cloth is better suited for a coat of this nature? View attachment 1890737 View attachment 1890739 View attachment 1890741 View attachment 1890743

I prefer the higher contrast of the herringbone. Magee has some has some heavier ones in their Errigal bunch that would work well

 

[bjhofkin]

Raglan overcoats, let’s talk about it. Which cloth is better suited for a coat of this nature? View attachment 1890737 View attachment 1890739 View attachment 1890741 View attachment 1890743

I'm a sucker for the subtlety of the second kind of cloth.

 

[DavidLane]

The bigger the herringbone the better. This one is from Wythe.

-DL

 

[ericgereghty]

The bigger the herringbone the better. This one is from Wythe.
View attachment 1890751

-DL

Was this included in Derek’s “how big boys do tailoring?”

If not, it should have been.

 

[DavidLane]

Was this included in Derek’s “how big boys do tailoring?”

If not, it should have been.

I think it was, I know he liked it.

-DL

 

[lordsuperb]

Herringbone it is, thanks.

 

[hpreston]

Herringbone it is, thanks.

Concur.

Project raglan from NMWA

 

[Zerase]

Heavy tweeds in big patterns!

 

[Bespoke DJP]

Heavy tweeds in big patterns! View attachment 1891005

Really nice!

Taking your overcoat... for a stroll, or you just bought it?


Cheers,

Dimitris