Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread

[JohnMRobie]

Do you find any differences between Brisa and the Bard? I have clicked through the book and they appear to be the exact same to me. Same weight, same weave, same finish.

Have you found The Bard book available online anywhere by chance?

 

[Free Style]

New unfunded liabilities from Maison Hellard. Very soft linen to the touch. After trying out heavy Irish linens, I wanted to get something different for a blazer, and I find the patterns and colours of their bunch to be quite nice

 

[Warrant_Buffet]

New unfunded liabilities from Maison Hellard. Very soft linen to the touch. After trying out heavy Irish linens, I wanted to get something different for a blazer, and I find the patterns and colours of their bunch to be quite nice
View attachment 1861651

Lovely PoW right there. What's their weight and may I ask where you bought them?

 

[Baked Potato]

Hey,

Got a recommendation in the overcoat thread to check in here. Do you guys have any recommendations for heavy fabrics suitable for an overcoat to be used during Swedish winters? Not to be used in the nothern country side really, in that case a parka would probably be more suitable. So something that is warm enough to be used in the city.

I'm going with my local MtM place (they use Munro), so perhaps a fabric that they can source. I want something heavy and most fabrics they showed me last time were around 500g, so something heavier than that perhaps. The design I'm thinking of is a raglan coat with flapped patch pockets (although I'm unsure of the raglan sleeve itself, I might go with a regular sleeve, but keep the rest of the design, no belt though whatever sleeve I'll choose). I'm thinking navy in colour, but perhaps some very discreete pattern won't hurt? I'm not that keen on donegal though.

 

[Fad P]

Hey,

Got a recommendation in the overcoat thread to check in here. Do you guys have any recommendations for heavy fabrics suitable for an overcoat to be used during Swedish winters? Not to be used in the nothern country side really, in that case a parka would probably be more suitable. So something that is warm enough to be used in the city.

I'm going with my local MtM place (they use Munro), so perhaps a fabric that they can source. I want something heavy and most fabrics they showed me last time were around 500g, so something heavier than that perhaps. The design I'm thinking of is a raglan coat with flapped patch pockets (although I'm unsure of the raglan sleeve itself, I might go with a regular sleeve, but keep the rest of the design, no belt though whatever sleeve I'll choose). I'm thinking navy in colour, but perhaps some very discreete pattern won't hurt? I'm not that keen on donegal though.

Maybe check with Fox? I have a coat in (a now discontinued) wool that takes me through the winters in Stockholm. It’s bullet proof and probably around 900g.

 

[Baked Potato]

Maybe check with Fox? I have a coat in (a now discontinued) wool that takes me through the winters in Stockholm. It’s bullet proof and probably around 900g.

Thanks for your reply! Is is Fox Flannel you're thinking of? Did you order your coat through an MtM service, or did you source the fabric yourself? Don't know if it's possible to use your own fabric when going the MtM route, as you might be able to do when going bespoke.

 

[Fad P]

Thanks for your reply! Is is Fox Flannel you're thinking of? Did you order your coat through an MtM service, or did you source the fabric yourself? Don't know if it's possible to use your own fabric when going the MtM route, as you might be able to do when going bespoke.

Yes, Fox Flannel. You can order both samples and fabrics directly from their site if needed.

It depends on the MTM service I guess. Saman Amel would do it for example.

 

[classicalthunde]

Do you find any differences between Brisa and the Bard? I have clicked through the book and they appear to be the exact same to me. Same weight, same weave, same finish.

where can you view the Bard book online?

 

[Spaghettimatt]

What’s the go-to blazer cloth that isn’t a mockleno these days. I’m looking at Fox midnight hopsack but wondering if there’s anything else out there that people prefer.

 

[JHWilliams]

What’s the go-to blazer cloth that isn’t a mockleno these days. I’m looking at Fox midnight hopsack but wondering if there’s anything else out there that people prefer.

How heavy do you want to go?

 

[JohnMRobie]

Lovely PoW right there. What's their weight and may I ask where you bought them?

Not the OP but have some experience with MH. Their book is available online to browse but last I checked they’ll only sell to people in the trade so you’ll need to have your tailor order them. Nathan is super responsive via email. The patterns are 360gsm and have a very soft hand. The solids are a bit more crisp - Sort of between an Irish and Italian linen and a hair lighter at 330 grams.

 

[reidd]

Hey,

Got a recommendation in the overcoat thread to check in here. Do you guys have any recommendations for heavy fabrics suitable for an overcoat to be used during Swedish winters? Not to be used in the nothern country side really, in that case a parka would probably be more suitable. So something that is warm enough to be used in the city.

I'm going with my local MtM place (they use Munro), so perhaps a fabric that they can source. I want something heavy and most fabrics they showed me last time were around 500g, so something heavier than that perhaps. The design I'm thinking of is a raglan coat with flapped patch pockets (although I'm unsure of the raglan sleeve itself, I might go with a regular sleeve, but keep the rest of the design, no belt though whatever sleeve I'll choose). I'm thinking navy in colour, but perhaps some very discreete pattern won't hurt? I'm not that keen on donegal though.

Yeah I'd be looking at these Fox vintage military reproduction patterns:

Fox Military Issue Midnight

Fox Military Issue Midnight CODE: CT24 WEIGHT: 840/870 grm (30/31 oz) TYPE: Fox Overcoating The set of the cloth is taken from Fox's extensive historic, military archive. This classic dark navy cloth will look splendid made in to British Reefer or classic duffle coat. Heavily set weighing 30/31...

www.themerchantfox.co.uk

Fox's Great Coat

Fox's Great Coat CODE: CT25 WEIGHT: 840/870 grm (30/31 oz) TYPE: Fox Overcoating Miles of this cloth was woven by Fox Brother's to dress our soldiers in The Great War. Commemorating it's centenary, this cloth using the original recipe where there is no compromise in ingredients, as used 100...

www.themerchantfox.co.uk

Fox Natural Slate Twill

Fox Natural Slate Twill CODE: CT19 WEIGHT: 760/790 grm (27/28oz) TYPE: Fox Overcoating Fox Brother's 100% Lambswool twill in charcoal, olive and straw. This cloth has a natural, closer to loom state finish. With a more country feel this cloth will look superb teamed with solid brown brogues...

www.themerchantfox.co.uk

 

[classicalthunde]

What’s the go-to blazer cloth that isn’t a mockleno these days. I’m looking at Fox midnight hopsack but wondering if there’s anything else out there that people prefer.

Just ordered a length of the Taylor and Lodge archive blazer in a dark navy hopsack and am pretty pleased with it, has some heft to it and a nice texture

 

[classicalthunde]

Yeah I'd be looking at these Fox vintage military reproduction patterns:

Fox Military Issue Midnight

Fox Military Issue Midnight CODE: CT24 WEIGHT: 840/870 grm (30/31 oz) TYPE: Fox Overcoating The set of the cloth is taken from Fox's extensive historic, military archive. This classic dark navy cloth will look splendid made in to British Reefer or classic duffle coat. Heavily set weighing 30/31...

www.themerchantfox.co.uk

Fox's Great Coat

Fox's Great Coat CODE: CT25 WEIGHT: 840/870 grm (30/31 oz) TYPE: Fox Overcoating Miles of this cloth was woven by Fox Brother's to dress our soldiers in The Great War. Commemorating it's centenary, this cloth using the original recipe where there is no compromise in ingredients, as used 100...

www.themerchantfox.co.uk

Fox Natural Slate Twill

Fox Natural Slate Twill CODE: CT19 WEIGHT: 760/790 grm (27/28oz) TYPE: Fox Overcoating Fox Brother's 100% Lambswool twill in charcoal, olive and straw. This cloth has a natural, closer to loom state finish. With a more country feel this cloth will look superb teamed with solid brown brogues...

www.themerchantfox.co.uk

agreed, I have a 30oz USN pea coat and that thing has held up against a tough Maine winter

 

[Spaghettimatt]

How heavy do you want to go?

Not sure how to answer that. 300-400g?

I already have a summer Mockleno in 510243, which is 280/310 and a bright navy. I'm looking for something heavier and darker in color for year-round use that is more conservative.