Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread

[classicalthunde]

Hello all, considering commissioning some trousers in dugdale fine new worsted line. Specially their mid gray, light gray and cream colors. Does anyone happen to have them as well as minnis fresco? Mostly going with NFW to save some coin but if it’s inferior in quality, feel or ability to maintain its crease then I’ll go for fresco. also, are most lighter fabrics (light gray and cream) see through? Wondering if lining your the knee is enough to avoid this issue.
Thanks!

To the best of my knowledge NFW is a robust plain weave, and not an open high-twist like fresco. I believe they are one of the fabrics recommended (particularly the greys) in The Armoury's "Building a Trouser Wardrobe" post.

 

[Crispyj]

Opinions on this tweed? 360 grams

 

[JHWilliams]

Hello all, considering commissioning some trousers in dugdale fine new worsted line. Specially their mid gray, light gray and cream colors. Does anyone happen to have them as well as minnis fresco? Mostly going with NFW to save some coin but if it’s inferior in quality, feel or ability to maintain its crease then I’ll go for fresco. also, are most lighter fabrics (light gray and cream) see through? Wondering if lining your the knee is enough to avoid this issue.
Thanks!

I have a suit in NFW. It is nothing like Fresco. The weave is a bit more closed and the hand is very different. I selected it as a summer suit and was disappointed that it doesn’t breath very well.

 

[MrFingers]

I have a suit in NFW. It is nothing like Fresco. The weave is a bit more closed and the hand is very different. I selected it as a summer suit and was disappointed that it doesn’t breath very well.

That’s very disappointing to hear. I guess I’ll just go with vbc 4 ply or fresco 3 ply then

 

[ericgereghty]

That’s very disappointing to hear. I guess I’ll just go with vbc 4 ply or fresco 3 ply then

Unsure if the savings would be similar, but no interest in Tropicalair? That's a closer equivalent to Fresco

 

[Concordia]

Finmeresco 3-ply is also very good.

 

[emptym]

Thanks, @Bespoke DJP and @Sreezy36! I already ordered the Yorkshire herringbone, but I like both of those, particularly the one Sreezy36 posted. If that had a blue and red instead of orange and red overcheck, it'd be pretty much perfect.

@calypso, I love that book, particularly the herringbones. I have a couple jackets from it. They're about 10 years old, have gotten a lot of wear, and look new. I think they were 14 oz. I've posted a few pics over the years, such as these

Spoiler: Donegal

@MrFingers, I don't have any NFW, but I believe Ashish of Luxire speaks highly of it and he has a lot of experience w/ Minnis as well. I have the light gray Minnis high twist, 8/9 oz pants, unlined, and they aren't transparent at all.

 

[MrFingers]

Unsure if the savings would be similar, but no interest in Tropicalair? That's a closer equivalent to Fresco

Could you link me to it? After talking to luxire I don’t think I’ll be saving any real money so I think I’m just going to sprint for whatever is “best”. In this case it’s between 4 ply vbc and 3 ply fresco. They’re both heavy weight. However, I don’t think either has a light gray shade so I may have to get a regular 300g fresco for that

 

[JohnMRobie]

Could you link me to it? After talking to luxire I don’t think I’ll be saving any real money so I think I’m just going to sprint for whatever is “best”. In this case it’s between 4 ply vbc and 3 ply fresco. They’re both heavy weight. However, I don’t think either has a light gray shade so I may have to get a regular 300g fresco for that

I’ve got the NFW. Second or third at this point whatever everyone else said. It’s fine but I much prefer my Drapers/VBC 4 ply. Makes great trousers.

Drapers 4 ply definitely comes in a light gray. Whether Luxire has it I’m not sure but the code is 18050.

 

[MrFingers]

I’ve got the NFW. Second or third at this point whatever everyone else said. Of the high twists it feels least like a high twist and is a much tighter weave. It’s fine but I much prefer my Drapers/VBC 4 ply. Makes great trousers.

Drapers 4 ply definitely comes in a light gray. Whether Luxire has it I’m not sure but the code is 18050.

Thanks! Yeah when I spoke with luxire they only carry whatever’s on their website (mid and charcoal) because allegedly vbc won’t sell them the cloth for single cuts. But good deal, I think I’ll go with vbc for the mid gray.

 

[ericgereghty]

Could you link me to it? After talking to luxire I don’t think I’ll be saving any real money so I think I’m just going to sprint for whatever is “best”. In this case it’s between 4 ply vbc and 3 ply fresco. They’re both heavy weight. However, I don’t think either has a light gray shade so I may have to get a regular 300g fresco for that

Tropicalair | Dugdale Bros & Co | Cloth Merchants, High Quality Cloth

Dating back to the 1960s, this collection was originally developed for Tyler Brothers, who represented Dugdale Bros in the Hong Kong, Singapore and Malaysian m

www.dugdalebros.com

Oh, are you getting the heaviest weight Fresco (the 435 or so grams)? These are lighter than that.

Out of curiosity, what is Luxire charging for the 4-ply and Fresco?

 

[JohnMRobie]

Tropicalair | Dugdale Bros & Co | Cloth Merchants, High Quality Cloth

Dating back to the 1960s, this collection was originally developed for Tyler Brothers, who represented Dugdale Bros in the Hong Kong, Singapore and Malaysian m

www.dugdalebros.com

Oh, are you getting the heaviest weight Fresco (the 435 or so grams)? These are lighter than that.

Out of curiosity, what is Luxire charging for the 4-ply and Fresco?

I wasn’t a huge fan of the tropicalair comparatively but at the discount price Luxire runs on it where it’s about half price I see some appeal. I probably wouldn’t order it again on purpose though. Much smoother hand. Doesn’t hold a crease as well. Tighter weave.

Personally I find 4 ply to be the sweet spot of weight, ability to hold a crease and feel (crisp but not scratchy).

Luxire has limited colors for like $300 or something. Pretty good deal.

Tropicalair:

4 Ply:

 

[MrFingers]

Tropicalair | Dugdale Bros & Co | Cloth Merchants, High Quality Cloth

Dating back to the 1960s, this collection was originally developed for Tyler Brothers, who represented Dugdale Bros in the Hong Kong, Singapore and Malaysian m

www.dugdalebros.com

Oh, are you getting the heaviest weight Fresco (the 435 or so grams)? These are lighter than that.

Out of curiosity, what is Luxire charging for the 4-ply and Fresco?

Yes. Mostly cause it’s getting colder down here but I’ll eventually have the lighter weight stuff too.
Luxire charges about 300/ea for the vbc and fresco so pretty good deal!

 

[JHWilliams]

That’s very disappointing to hear. I guess I’ll just go with vbc 4 ply or fresco 3 ply then

Drapers 4 ply is Amazing!!!!!!

 

[undertheskin]

i have a suit made from drapers 4 ply and eventhough i really like the cloth i would not recommend it for odd trousers at all.
its clearly a suiting to me - weave, color homogeneity, finish are way different from fresco 3. weave is tighter, colors aren't als melange-y, cloth isn't as dry and overall appearance is more "refined" for a lack of a better term.