Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread

[double00]

Thanks. I designed a travel jacket with my tailor to fit my needs how I want. It’s not a sport coat and I don’t care if it’s shapeless, bags or anything else. I asked about the jersey knit suggestions for on purpose.

idk what the garment is ( now i'm curious if you don't mind can you describe ? ) but you could also think about something like a synchilla fleece ( which is more or less a napped knit ) , or maybe find a wool fleece that is similar if you want a natural fiber ... maybe also a terry could work here .

 

[konstantis]

Could anyone provide any informations about the fabrics in the attached photos or any similar alternatives ?

 

[JohnMRobie]

idk what the garment is ( now i'm curious if you don't mind can you describe ? ) but you could also think about something like a synchilla fleece ( which is more or less a napped knit ) , or maybe find a wool fleece that is similar if you want a natural fiber ... maybe also a terry could work here .

If you’re familiar with the Flusser slack jacket it’s adjacent to that as a starting point

But then we came up with some tweaks to make it my own with regard to the style and make and incorporate some of my tailors style into it.

We also modified the details to make it more practical for my intended use and drew some additional inspiration from a travel sport coat I use most often on short trips abroad.

 

[BlueSteel]

All the talk of green last week inspired me to order this to make a sport coat with, not sure on yeh details maybe three patch pockets 1/2 lines going to give it some thought now that I have the cloth

Looks like a heavier and more upscale version of this one from Spier & Mackay:

Green/Brown Houndstooth | SPIER & MACKAY

Spier & Mackay

www.spierandmackay.com

 

[JayDee90]

Looks like a heavier and more upscale version of this one from Spier & Mackay:

Green/Brown Houndstooth | SPIER & MACKAY

Spier & Mackay

www.spierandmackay.com

I believe @Burzan actually had the identical fox cloth made up using S&M's MTO:

 

[Concordia]

Re Flusser: https://alanflusser.com/product-profiles/the-slack-jacket

I've found a shirtmaker in London willing to make something like the unlined Teba jacket/shirt from Spain, sold from time to time by Fox.

Fox Classic Midnight Flannel Teba Jacket

The Merchant Fox Travels to Spain. Available as a made to order Delivery - 6-8 weeks Introducing our classic Midnight Flannel to our Teba range this year, made by the talented Justo Gimeno. The Teba jacket is an iconic piece of the Spanish wardrobe, light and very comfortable, it is at a...

www.themerchantfox.co.uk

Essentially, she copied the one I bought from Fox and added an inch or so on the chest.

Similar idea as the Flusser, and I now have summer and fall weights largely covered. Time now to think about winter fabrics that won't be too heavy and won't stick to shirt sleeves.

 

[JHWilliams]

Those with dinner jackets...midnight versus black? Why opt for the former? Is it more interesting, even if it reads formal? Curious how you would describe the difference or why one for you was more appealing, aesthetically.

this is Midnight blue smith woolens under the lights. I think it looks pretty darn black!

 

[bernoulli]

I had a DB in a similar fabric and donated it last year. The large-scale houndstooth looks tacky IRL and I couldn't get past the ugly contrast (of course, to my eyes).

And regarding a tax, here is my midnight blue under artificial light in the evening.

I believe @Burzan actually had the identical fox cloth made up using S&M's MTO:

 

[emptym]

@Jmr928, I second @Marshak's Ariston rec. At least, a few years ago when I had a jersey jacket made, they had a good selection.

Back to my quest for a brown tweed with overcheck, I received a few samples from the Harris Tweed Shop:

I was mainly interested in the Sumburgh. It turned out lighter and warmer than I'd prefer. Though it is very nice, as are all the swatches they sent.

But I decided to order the undyed grey/brown from Yorkshire, shown here in the middle:

I'd been wanting a cool, dark brown herringbone with a subtle blue and red overcheck for a while, but I think this will get more wear.

 

[Bespoke DJP]

@Jmr928, I second @Marshak's Ariston rec. At least, a few years ago when I had a jersey jacket made, they had a good selection.

Back to my quest for a brown tweed with overcheck, I received a few samples from the Harris Tweed Shop:
View attachment 1840848
I was mainly interested in the Sumburgh. It turned out lighter and warmer than I'd prefer. Though it is very nice, as are all the swatches they sent.

But I decided to order the undyed grey/brown from Yorkshire, shown here in the middle:
View attachment 1840850

I'd been wanting a cool, dark brown herringbone with a subtle blue and red overcheck for a while, but I think this will get more wear.

Something like this, save the windowpanes?

Best,

Dimitris


PS
Its full herringbone width is 2.4cm, a proper jacketing herringbone size!

 

[Sreezy36]

@Jmr928, I second @Marshak's Ariston rec. At least, a few years ago when I had a jersey jacket made, they had a good selection.

Back to my quest for a brown tweed with overcheck, I received a few samples from the Harris Tweed Shop:
View attachment 1840848
I was mainly interested in the Sumburgh. It turned out lighter and warmer than I'd prefer. Though it is very nice, as are all the swatches they sent.

But I decided to order the undyed grey/brown from Yorkshire, shown here in the middle:
View attachment 1840850

I'd been wanting a cool, dark brown herringbone with a subtle blue and red overcheck for a while, but I think this will get more wear.

something like this? Although it is a cashmere tweed

 

[calypso]

Hi,
does anyone here have experience with W.Bill's Donegal? I'm thinking of making a jacket out of it for my next project.
It looked and felt amazing but I was a bit surprised by how heavy it was.

 

[classicalthunde]

Hi,
does anyone here have experience with W.Bill's Donegal? I'm thinking of making a jacket out of it for my next project.
It looked and felt amazing but I was a bit surprised by how heavy it was.

Just ordered a jacket in the dark green tweed (#34623) from Hemrajani, waiting for it to come in a couple of weeks! The navy blue tweed was a close second choice.

Seems to be a nice medium ground between heavy and rugged Harris Tweeds and the lighted Shetlands, I was surprised how porous it was when I held it up to the light

 

[bdavro23]

Could anyone provide any informations about the fabrics in the attached photos or any similar alternatives ?

This has similar colors/ tone, but in a more muted pattern. I think the Houndstooth one you posted especially, is a difficult pattern to wear.

P & H GLENROYAL ALL WOOL - Harrisons

435gm / 14oz Pure Wool Tweed Jacketing & Suiting

www.harrisons1863.com

 

[MrFingers]

Hello all, considering commissioning some trousers in dugdale fine new worsted line. Specially their mid gray, light gray and cream colors. Does anyone happen to have them as well as minnis fresco? Mostly going with NFW to save some coin but if it’s inferior in quality, feel or ability to maintain its crease then I’ll go for fresco. also, are most lighter fabrics (light gray and cream) see through? Wondering if lining your the knee is enough to avoid this issue.
Thanks!