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Concordia

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Fearnought is a lovely suiting cloth (no cavalry twill, though). However, the colors were very disappointing, so I’ve only had one grey suit made up.

Dugdale Invincible has some lovely cavalry twills in multiple weights (but nothing holds a candle to LL QUCT, in my opinion.
Thinking of doing the light navy (steel blue, not quite RAF) from the Fearnought book.

QUCT is very good, but much woollier than normal CT. There is plenty of room for the other kind.
 

Sreezy36

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Here are two DBs I have from separate tailors. The green I think has a good buttoning point, and while I like that tan I think it's probably too high. Thoughts?
View attachment 1839474 View attachment 1839475

the tan DB is definitely higher with more overlap as well. I prefer the tan on you.
As far as a buttoning point I believe that it depends on a lot of variables such as: lapel shape, lapel width, gorge height, and button overlap. The button stance is something that you have to play around with and may vary depending on the cut of the garment.
 

Marshak

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Thinking of doing the light navy (steel blue, not quite RAF) from the Fearnought book.

QUCT is very good, but much woollier than normal CT. There is plenty of room for the other kind.

What is QUCT? It sounds like a SM term.
 

FT412

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All the talk of green last week inspired me to order this to make a sport coat with, not sure on yeh details maybe three patch pockets 1/2 lines going to give it some thought now that I have the cloth
 

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reidd

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Edwin Woodhouse 6ply Dark Navy for a double breasted jacket. Gold buttons or normal horns? Being made by Zizolfi for a proper Neapolitan doppio petto.

Tough decision. Gold would be great as long are you are happy to lean into the very nautical/preppy connotations. I have gold buttons on a single bested blazer and I love it but in DB, the look will be even more extreme. Not that that's a bad thing. Horn will blend in more and tone down the overall blazery effect.

Out of curiosity, what's the weight of that Woodhouse 9ply and how did you come across it?
 

camez_

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Tough decision. Gold would be great as long are you are happy to lean into the very nautical/preppy connotations. I have gold buttons on a single bested blazer and I love it but in DB, the look will be even more extreme. Not that that's a bad thing. Horn will blend in more and tone down the overall blazery effect.

Out of curiosity, what's the weight of that Woodhouse 9ply and how did you come across it?

you can buy it from taylor and lodge. it still is produced

for a proper naval db blazer i would recommend something more like cav twill / heavy weight serge
 

Crispyj

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Tough decision. Gold would be great as long are you are happy to lean into the very nautical/preppy connotations. I have gold buttons on a single bested blazer and I love it but in DB, the look will be even more extreme. Not that that's a bad thing. Horn will blend in more and tone down the overall blazery effect.

Out of curiosity, what's the weight of that Woodhouse 9ply and how did you come across it?
you can buy it from taylor and lodge. it still is produced

for a proper naval db blazer i would recommend something more like cav twill / heavy weight serge
I don't recall the T&L 6ply feeling the same as the vintage Edwin Woodhouse 6ply. Woodhouse 6ply feels probably 550-600grams? It was available through Gianluca / Zizolfi.

PXL_20220517_201600751.jpg _0040_WoolPly_BL394_C3.jpg
 

reidd

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I confirm it's the same. Edwin Woodhouse is a subbrand of T&L. Their 6ply is impressive but a bit rough compared with the one of Draper's/VBC.

Possibly. Although unless I am badly mistaken, the Edwin Woodhouse mill is not longer in operation. The brand may still exist under T&L and the product might be mostly the same, but it is certainly made in a different plant at minimum.
 

Crispyj

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T&L 6ply feels dryer than Draper's 6ply and slightly more heavy. The vintage Edwin Woodhouse 6ply feels like a 12ply compared to Drapers 6ply
 

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