Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread

[SimonC]

The lapel width would conventionally support some extravagance, but the buttoning point means they are truncated and whilst wide their overall area is insufficient. The cuffs are forgivable, but it’s the depth of the pocket flaps rather than their angle that stands out as lacking proportionality.

 

[Mr. Six]

What weight for this? Looks like a nice option!

No information on the brown and grey swatches I have. I would guess they're in the 11-12 oz range.

 

[ericgereghty]

Do y'all have particular books you seek out for Cav Twills?
Looking at W. Bill, Standeven, and various Dugdales. Preferences amongst those books?
Horribly impractical, but would be fascinating to try Dugdale's "Keeper Tweed' as a pair of trousers.

 

[te0o]

Do y'all have particular books you seek out for Cav Twills?
Looking at W. Bill, Standeven, and various Dugdales. Preferences amongst those books?
Horribly impractical, but would be fascinating to try Dugdale's "Keeper Tweed' as a pair of trousers.

Holland & Sherry Dakota bunch. Got a 13oz cav twill and it's been a good performer, nice colours there as well.

 

[brax]

linens? I also have a pair of LP trousers in “summertime” or something like that which are super light and cool on hot days

I really enjoy wool/linen blends for hot days. Leave out the silk.

 

[brax]

Do y'all have particular books you seek out for Cav Twills?
Looking at W. Bill, Standeven, and various Dugdales. Preferences amongst those books?
Horribly impractical, but would be fascinating to try Dugdale's "Keeper Tweed' as a pair of trousers.

It’s all in the name: QUCT

 

[Jnarcane]

I really enjoy wool/linen blends for hot days. Leave out the silk.

Why leave out the silk?

 

[Slickman]

What book is the current worsted middleweight/heavyweight champ?

 

[fabricateurialist]

Has anyone experience with Standeven's Explorer bunch ? specifically the "heavier" 10oz 27034 et al

I have a few Zegna High Performance ones, but am I'm looking for a high twist cloth that's not as light as 8oz, got some Fox Air samples in the mail but that wasn't it - so hit me with suggestions/pros and cons of other mills

thank you all in advance

 

[brax]

Why leave out the silk?

Add a bit of sheen that I don’t want in trousers. And also adds a bit of warmth. When DWW replicated a raw silk suiting, he left out all silk. Seems a bit incongruous but it worked.

 

[TheSuitBurnsBetter]

Has anyone experience with Standeven's Explorer bunch ? specifically the "heavier" 10oz 27034 et al

I have a few Zegna High Performance ones, but am I'm looking for a high twist cloth that's not as light as 8oz, got some Fox Air samples in the mail but that wasn't it - so hit me with suggestions/pros and cons of other mills

thank you all in advance

I have a suit in the light gray 11oz (27030) and it's a fantastic fabric. But it's pretty coarse, which takes a little getting used to. Drapes well and is very wrinkle resistant and breathable.

 

[JHWilliams]

It’s all in the name: QUCT

There is an open subscription now for London Lounge QUCT in light khaki. I have a pair in Pearl grey and they are one of the nicest cavalry twill trousers I have ever had made up.

 

[Sreezy36]

Has anyone experience with Standeven's Explorer bunch ? specifically the "heavier" 10oz 27034 et al

I have a few Zegna High Performance ones, but am I'm looking for a high twist cloth that's not as light as 8oz, got some Fox Air samples in the mail but that wasn't it - so hit me with suggestions/pros and cons of other mills

thank you all in advance

Just out of curiosity, what is it that you didn’t like about the Foxair?

 

[ericgereghty]

Holland & Sherry Dakota bunch. Got a 13oz cav twill and it's been a good performer, nice colours there as well.

Have heard good things, but likely going to opt for the beefier stuff. Will inquire when I go get sized up.

It’s all in the name: QUCT

For better or worse, pants are not what comes to mind when I say that aloud
That said, what is the weight of those? I want to say I recall them in the ~15oz range.

What book is the current worsted middleweight/heavyweight champ?

I was going to say Harrison's P&B, but I guess that one fell by the wayside. I recall someone (was it @JHWilliams ?) touting Dugdale's Fearnought book.

There is an open subscription now for London Lounge QUCT in light khaki. I have a pair in Pearl grey and they are one of the nicest cavalry twill trousers I have ever had made up.

Is the process still the same (read: arduous) getting an account set up at LL? I had one once upon a time, but I guess it fell off when they changed servers or whatever it was Michael did with the update.

 

[Marshak]

What book is the current worsted middleweight/heavyweight champ?

Answering for the heavyweight worsted range, since the offering is very limited in this area and the current trend is dominated by effeminate midweight cloths.

Dugdale's Fearnought is trendy: old fashioned sturdy cloth at 18 Oz/500 gr/m. Colors lack a bit of depth. I have a suit in the dark navy herringbone I'm very fond of.

Harrison's P&B: same beast with deeper colors but insane prices (my tailor was quoted 160 euros/m).