Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread

[Bespoke DJP]

However, I can tell you where I got my length from. Jean Manuel Moreau in Paris about a year ago, maybe he has some still there, its worth a shot. I contacted him via Instagram after inquired with other fabric enthusiasts here about said drop and their advice to talk to him was spot on. Alternatively you could try to call Lafayette Saltiel in Paris, they're Fox's agent for the french market and retain many wonderful fabrics and might have a bunch still there. Worth a shot.

You are welcome!

Dimitris

 

[lordsuperb]

Green jacket

 

[lordsuperb]

Psssst.... I'm trying to get that guy to sell me the fabric....

Don't you have something similar on the way?

 

[Crispyj]

Don't you have something similar on the way?

That's my jacket!
Quite different tbh, more green and no orange.

Excuse the t-shirt. The back is a bit snug, need to let out some when the Steed chaps visit NYC in a week or two.

 

[TheLawBeard]

That's my jacket!
Quite different tbh, more green and no orange.

Excuse the t-shirt. The back is a bit snug, need to let out some when the Steed chaps visit NYC in a week or two.
View attachment 1837679
View attachment 1837680

Hey! I got the same fabric from Steed as well! Definitely can't wait to get mine back from alterations and to have cool enough weather to really break it in.

 

[lordsuperb]

That's my jacket!
Quite different tbh, more green and no orange.

Excuse the t-shirt. The back is a bit snug, need to let out some when the Steed chaps visit NYC in a week or two.
View attachment 1837679
View attachment 1837680

Some honest feedback from a Steed customer. The pattern, lapel width, and ticket pockets are too much on this jacket. If you are going to insist on the FU lapels use a solid pattern. As it stands right now there are too many bells and whistles.

Notice how everything flows together on this jacket from Steed?

You’ll find your harmony with your tailor around coat #11.

 

[Crispyj]

Some honest feedback from a Steed customer. The pattern, lapel width, and ticket pockets are too much on this jacket. If you are going to insist on the FU lapels use a solid pattern. As it stands right now there are too many bells and whistles.

Notice how everything flows together on this jacket from Steed?
View attachment 1837767

You’ll find your harmony with your tailor around coat #11.

It's their default width? I don't recall asking for wide lapels exactly.

 

[lordsuperb]

It's their default width? I don't recall asking for wide lapels exactly.

Maybe they are making jackets with wide lapels these days. My first order was 9 years ago and the lapels were restrained. I've asked them to increase the lapel width on newer orders. However, my most recent order was a suit and had the default lapel width from 9 years ago.

Again, I am not a fan of the cloth you originally ordered but if it works for you wear it in good health. Just be aware of the stylistic choices and cloths you pick for future orders.

 

[classicalthunde]

Maybe they are making jackets with wide lapels these days. My first order was 9 years ago and the lapels were restrained. I've asked them to increase the lapel width on newer orders. However, my most recent order was a suit and had the default lapel width from 9 years ago.

Again, I am not a fan of the cloth you originally ordered but if it works for you wear it in good health. Just be aware of the stylistic choices and cloths you pick for future orders.

I've noticed a lot more pictures of bellied lapels in the past couple of years compared to some older shots (which I think is present in your 2 examples as well)

 

[bjhofkin]

Another green I think is great and wearable:

W.BILL SHETLAND TWEEDS/100% WOOL - Harrisons

390gm / 12 – 13oz 100% Pure New Wool Tweed

www.harrisons1863.com

 

[lordsuperb]

I've noticed a lot more pictures of bellied lapels in the past couple of years compared to some older shots (which I think is present in your 2 examples as well)

Lapel width and bellied lapels are two different categories.

 

[Concordia]

I remember trying to have a discussion with Edwin about slimming my lapels down just a hair. It went nowhere. He is a 'rock of eye' man, and if you're not as slim as he is, he'll make sure you have lots of stuff covering your chest.

 

[nmprisons]

I like the lapels on @Crispyj 's jacket. But I've also been thinking about having Edwin slightly increase the size of my lapels.

 

[Crispyj]

I like the lapels on @Crispyj 's jacket. But I've also been thinking about having Edwin slightly increase the size of my lapels.

I have a straight lapel jacket fitting next week. We'll see how wide that is.

 

[lordsuperb]

I remember trying to have a discussion with Edwin about slimming my lapels down just a hair. It went nowhere. He is a 'rock of eye' man, and if you're not as slim as he is, he'll make sure you have lots of stuff covering your chest.

I find most tailors inflexible to what I want in changes, simple changes at that. Those Neapolitan tailors like to make jackets short and tight. How hard is it to make a longer jacket? I had to ask Edwin to slim things down multiple times before the changes were incorporated. I’ll stick to one tailor for the time being because I start the process over again when using a new tailor.