Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread

[SteveL91]

Does anyone have any recommendations for a cloth similar to this Tollegno cashmere chestnut? Epaulet (from whom I yoinked the picture) had it available in a recent promotion, but fabric was only available for one sport coat, and it was sold before I could grab it.

 

[Concordia]

I've a bespoke one by Tofani. I'd say it's a 2 seasons suit, mainly useful in autumn and spring. It's super open weave (certainly the most airy you'll find on the market with the Drago hopsack) but also quite heavy, so difficult to wear in hard winter and high summer. A strange beast for sure but with an amazing drape and feeling, like an ultimate hopsack. Do it if you have already all the staples in your wardrobe.

View attachment 1818302

Looks to be competing in the same space as Harrison Spring Ram-- which is about 13oz but has a seriously aggressive percentage in Cheviot wool, so feels even heavier. Lovely stuff.

 

[Concordia]

Looking to have a tuxedo made for work in a restaurant, and looking for recommendations on cloth thanks

Depends on a few things, like climate you'll be working in, chances you'll get to clean/press it, and so on. Because it is for work and you may be running around a lot, consider lighter weight and breathable but durable and able to hold its shape. As strange as it may sound, that could take you to 9/10oz Fresco (Minnis) or 3-ply Finmeresco -- assuming you don't need to look as suave as every one of your guests.

 

[Concordia]

A few nice things in the Fox limited edition book. Trousers arrived from the light blue wool/linen blend (thank you, NsM!). Lighter weight than you'd think from the description, and a tad less elegant. That is, it appears to be a pale, featherweight denim. Should be nice for wearing under summer blazers, which was the main target.

Also, by a strange coincidence, I was able to see a bolt of the Grant herringbone with claret stripe. Coincidence because I was going to ask my tailor to order it for a 3-piece suit. Absolutely epic blend of colors, in just the right weight for some season other than this hellish one.

 

[The Chai]

Looking to have a tuxedo made for work in a restaurant, and looking for recommendations on cloth thanks

Bateman & Ogden - Plain Black

Bateman & Ogden, merchants of Suiting Cloth

www.batemanogden.co.uk

Bateman & Ogden - Plain Dark Navy

Bateman & Ogden, merchants of Suiting Cloth

www.batemanogden.co.uk

Would go with either. If I was gonna get a beater tux made bespoke this would be it. Has natural stretch, drapes well (335 gsm) and I find the faille weave a great surface texture for a tux. Worn this particular cloth in the summer dog days of SE Asia and it is better than most of my other tux fabrics in terms of ventilation and moisture wicking. I would not go barathea as it does not ventilate well compared to other cloths and lightweight baratheas are simply the worst imo!

 

[The_Schmidt]

I can chime in by saying that when I first saw this thread I was like "why would you have that much cloth ordered?" and now I am like "I just bought cloth for a summer suit and additional summer trousers whilst my backlog is still five items long"...

So here it goes, I only have the pictures from the books though.

Spoiler: Winter Coat

Its the 986003CP one

Spoiler: Winter Jacket

Spoiler: Winter Trousers

757602CP one and from the same book...

...757505CP - you can see the Cashmere Pure Opulence fabric from the winter jacket here as well

Spoiler: Summer Suit

Both pictures show the same cloth, but both fail to show its actual colour... it is 330g 100% linen from Maison Hellard in "Bleuet" colour

Spoiler: Summer Trousers

From the Serge & Solana book from H&S ... and again two pics of the same fabric:

...this time it is the "Moka" colour from Maison Hellard's 330g Linen

...and the worst part is, I already have a couple more cloths in my mind that I would order next. I guess my backlog will never be emtpy again.

 

[Markus W]

"why would you have that much cloth ordered?"

You can never have enough cloth!

The correct number of suits to own is n+1. While the minimum number of suits one should own is three, the correct number is n+1, where n is the number of suits currently owned. This equation may also be re-written as s-1, where s is the number of suits owned that would result in separation from your partner.
Inspired by the Velominati rules (google it.)

 

[Sreezy36]

I can chime in by saying that when I first saw this thread I was like "why would you have that much cloth ordered?" and now I am like "I just bought cloth for a summer suit and additional summer trousers whilst my backlog is still five items long"...

So here it goes, I only have the pictures from the books though.

Spoiler: Winter Coat

View attachment 1820556
Its the 986003CP one

Spoiler: Winter Jacket

View attachment 1820557

Spoiler: Winter Trousers

View attachment 1820558
757602CP one and from the same book...
View attachment 1820559
...757505CP - you can see the Cashmere Pure Opulence fabric from the winter jacket here as well

Spoiler: Summer Suit

View attachment 1820560
View attachment 1820562
Both pictures show the same cloth, but both fail to show its actual colour... it is 330g 100% linen from Maison Hellard in "Bleuet" colour

Spoiler: Summer Trousers

View attachment 1820563
From the Serge & Solana book from H&S ... and again two pics of the same fabric:
View attachment 1820564
View attachment 1820565
...this time it is the "Moka" colour from Maison Hellard's 330g Linen

...and the worst part is, I already have a couple more cloths in my mind that I would order next. I guess my backlog will never be emtpy again.

Good cloth selections.
How do you plan to spec each garment? Also, which bespoke tailoring style?

 

[The_Schmidt]

Good cloth selections.
How do you plan to spec each garment? Also, which bespoke tailoring style?

For the coat, it will be a double breasted one, not sure yet if it will be a full polo coat, but I have been enjoying post box pockets very much so there is a good chance they will reappear.

For the jacket and the trousers it will be in the same style as my most recent commission - see ongoing bespoke projects thread.

For the suit I am still undecided. It has always felt „wrong“ to me to have a suit where the jacket has patch pockets, but with the linen stuff I might cave in and just use more or less same style as for single jacket, but as a suit. It is going to be a not soooo city look anyways.

 

[Smarter_than_Casual]

Currently contemplating cloth selection for a DB Polo Coat.
I was originally thinking of going with the 640g Camelhair from Harrisons (the lighter colour of the two), but my tailor isn't able to source the fabric / from what i heard it is ridicolously expensive for Camel (about 450€ per M). Can someone confirm this?

Most other Camelhairs I found (like Standeven/Ellis Snowdonia or LP) are either to yellow/orange in colour or to light in weight (640g being the lower end of what I wanted).

Does someone here have any other suggestions?

I found this Loden too https://www.leichtfried-loden.com/produkt/bekleidung-symmetry-640-doubleface-600-5023-5023/ does someone have experience with this?

Best
Johannes

 

[bdavro23]

Currently contemplating cloth selection for a DB Polo Coat.
I was originally thinking of going with the 640g Camelhair from Harrisons (the lighter colour of the two), but my tailor isn't able to source the fabric / from what i heard it is ridicolously expensive for Camel (about 450€ per M). Can someone confirm this?

Most other Camelhairs I found (like Standeven/Ellis Snowdonia or LP) are either to yellow/orange in colour or to light in weight (640g being the lower end of what I wanted).

Does someone here have any other suggestions?

I found this Loden too https://www.leichtfried-loden.com/produkt/bekleidung-symmetry-640-doubleface-600-5023-5023/ does someone have experience with this?

Best
Johannes

That price sounds high for the Harrisons Camel hair, but I dont know what country you are in/ taxes, etc. Either way, as long as its in your budget, get the cloth you really want. Its usually not the main price driver of a commission and the price differential turns out to be small over the life of the garment.

 

[Smarter_than_Casual]

That price sounds high for the Harrisons Camel hair, but I dont know what country you are in/ taxes, etc. Either way, as long as its in your budget, get the cloth you really want. Its usually not the main price driver of a commission and the price differential turns out to be small over the life of the garment.

Thanks for the response.
I am located in Germany.

 

[Sreezy36]

Currently contemplating cloth selection for a DB Polo Coat.
I was originally thinking of going with the 640g Camelhair from Harrisons (the lighter colour of the two), but my tailor isn't able to source the fabric / from what i heard it is ridicolously expensive for Camel (about 450€ per M). Can someone confirm this?

Most other Camelhairs I found (like Standeven/Ellis Snowdonia or LP) are either to yellow/orange in colour or to light in weight (640g being the lower end of what I wanted).

Does someone here have any other suggestions?

I found this Loden too https://www.leichtfried-loden.com/produkt/bekleidung-symmetry-640-doubleface-600-5023-5023/ does someone have experience with this?

Best
Johannes

im more than likely going to do a DB camel colored topcoat for my next overcoat.

Now I’m trying to figure out the weight, composition, and the shade of camel.

I’m leaning towards 450-500 grams. Matte surface texture and camel shade dark enough to mask stains.

 

[Markus W]

Currently contemplating cloth selection for a DB Polo Coat.
I was originally thinking of going with the 640g Camelhair from Harrisons (the lighter colour of the two), but my tailor isn't able to source the fabric / from what i heard it is ridicolously expensive for Camel (about 450€ per M). Can someone confirm this?

Most other Camelhairs I found (like Standeven/Ellis Snowdonia or LP) are either to yellow/orange in colour or to light in weight (640g being the lower end of what I wanted).

Does someone here have any other suggestions?

I found this Loden too https://www.leichtfried-loden.com/produkt/bekleidung-symmetry-640-doubleface-600-5023-5023/ does someone have experience with this?

Best
Johannes

450 € is quite expensive. Do you have a fabric number? Maybe I can help you out and get it for you.

Leichtfried is a great choice. They have some very nice fabrics and you can't get wrong with them.

 

[Smarter_than_Casual]

450 € is quite expensive. Do you have a fabric number? Maybe I can help you out and get it for you.

Leichtfried is a great choice. They have some very nice fabrics and you can't get wrong with them.

Hey Man!

I was looking at the 84815 22oz Camelhair.
Could you perhaps double check the price and shoot me a DM?

Thank you very much!