Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread

[TweedyProf]

it might be helpful to list some information about how wish to use the dinner jacket.

For example: climate (tropical vs 4 seasons), season(spring/summer vs fall/winter), and formality(casual vs formal).

This may help to narrow down your potential recommendations as there are an array of cloth options.

Of course, should have mentioned this, thanks for prompt. Formal, maximizing seasons, though probably tending towards warmer seasons. Four season climate. I can't imagine moving tropical at this point!

 

[Sreezy36]

Of course, should have mentioned this, thanks for prompt. Formal, maximizing seasons, though probably tending towards warmer seasons. Four season climate. I can't imagine moving tropical at this point!

I will definitely defer to guys like @Andy57 and @The Chai. They are definitely more experienced in this regard.

A couple of cloth selections that do interest me as “wild cards” are a dark/midnight blue sharkskin (55521) and black hopsack suiting (55541) HFW/Hardy Minnis QZ/QZ2 340g super 150 all wool. Excellent feel and body. Doesn’t feel like a super 150 in terms of delicacy and fine texture. This cloth has balls. Also, the hopsack has a fine texture like a barathea. This bunch is hands down the best suiting cloth in the 320-370g range that I have ever put my hands on. It isn’t talked about that much on this thread but it is absolutely incredible cloth. If you can, try to get your hands on it.

Huddersfield Fine Worsteds

shop.hfwltd.com

 

[Andy57]

Of course, should have mentioned this, thanks for prompt. Formal, maximizing seasons, though probably tending towards warmer seasons. Four season climate. I can't imagine moving tropical at this point!

All the major mills have formal bunches. I have used Dormeuil and Harrison's. And, of course, a couple of my dinner jackets are London Lounge mohair.

Most events (even the ones you create yourself) where you would wear a dinner jacket are indoors, so seasonality is not really a major consideration. Rather, fineness of cloth is. I recommend a fine barathea in whatever color you want your dinner jacket to be.

 

[The Chai]

Of course, should have mentioned this, thanks for prompt. Formal, maximizing seasons, though probably tending towards warmer seasons. Four season climate. I can't imagine moving tropical at this point!

I'd probably go for a 10oz kid mohair blend or a 12 13 oz wool mohair. Barathea for a first dinner jacket if you want something for four seasons. I would trend towards a lighter fabric due to the fact most black tie events are indoor and you can always put an overcoat when leaving the venue. I prefer midnight over black but that's my personal preference.

 

[TweedyProf]

All the major mills have formal bunches. I have used Dormeuil and Harrison's. And, of course, a couple of my dinner jackets are London Lounge mohair.

Most events (even the ones you create yourself) where you would wear a dinner jacket are indoors, so seasonality is not really a major consideration. Rather, fineness of cloth is. I recommend a fine barathea in whatever color you want your dinner jacket to be.

I'd probably go for a 10oz kid mohair blend or a 12 13 oz wool mohair. Barathea for a first dinner jacket if you want something for four seasons. I would trend towards a lighter fabric due to the fact most black tie events are indoor and you can always put an overcoat when leaving the venue. I prefer midnight over black but that's my personal preference.

Thanks, this is really helpful!

 

[TweedyProf]

Ok, dinner jacket fabrics settled. Thanks!

New question

Summer cloths in solid green. This is a hard color to get right. I think tending towards olive is safer, but olive does not jive with my skin tone. An olive that is towards a darker green, less yellow, would be good but must stop short, I feel, of looking like a conifer shade. I think less saturated seems right for summer, and with texture or visual interest of certain mixes.

Would be open to patterns but inclined towards a solid.

wsl or a textured linen seems right. What fabrics have you used that you like?

 

[JHWilliams]

Ok, dinner jacket fabrics settled. Thanks!

New question

Summer cloths in solid green. This is a hard color to get right. I think tending towards olive is safer, but olive does not jive with my skin tone. An olive that is towards a darker green, less yellow, would be good but must stop short, I feel, of looking like a conifer shade. I think less saturated seems right for summer, and with texture or visual interest of certain mixes.

Would be open to patterns but inclined towards a solid.

wsl or a textured linen seems right. What fabrics have you used that you like?

Steven Hitchcock highly recommended Smith Woolens midnight barathea. I have commissioned a dinner suit recently and looking forward to my second fitting. The cloth is lightweight, crisp, drapes well, and is extremely comfortable. HRH Prince Charles commissioned a dinner suit from Steven in the exact same cloth. I have attached a photo.

 

[circumspice]

Ok, dinner jacket fabrics settled. Thanks!

New question

Summer cloths in solid green. This is a hard color to get right. I think tending towards olive is safer, but olive does not jive with my skin tone. An olive that is towards a darker green, less yellow, would be good but must stop short, I feel, of looking like a conifer shade. I think less saturated seems right for summer, and with texture or visual interest of certain mixes.

Would be open to patterns but inclined towards a solid.

wsl or a textured linen seems right. What fabrics have you used that you like?

Do those green solid seersuckers do anything for you?

 

[TweedyProf]

Do those green solid seersuckers do anything for you?

I like seersucker, but not sure in a jacket. Which did you have in mind?

 

[TweedyProf]

Steven Hitchcock highly recommended Smith Woolens midnight barathea. I have commissioned a dinner suit recently and looking forward to my second fitting. The cloth is lightweight, crisp, drapes well, and is extremely comfortable. HRH Prince Charles commissioned a dinner suit from Steven in the exact same cloth. I have attached a photo.

That looks very nice.

 

[Concordia]

Of course, should have mentioned this, thanks for prompt. Formal, maximizing seasons, though probably tending towards warmer seasons. Four season climate. I can't imagine moving tropical at this point!

Smiths has a nice book, which includes a lot of mohair blends. Now that Lesser's book seems to have been retired, that may be the best option from that conglomerate.

Another option, if you are going to be pushing out the boat, is Escorial. They have an (expensive) 11oz barathea that is really lovely. Not terribly porous, but should hold through most seasons. Also, their fibers are allegedly really springy, so good at shedding wrinkles.

 

[reidd]

Ok, dinner jacket fabrics settled. Thanks!

New question

Summer cloths in solid green. This is a hard color to get right. I think tending towards olive is safer, but olive does not jive with my skin tone. An olive that is towards a darker green, less yellow, would be good but must stop short, I feel, of looking like a conifer shade. I think less saturated seems right for summer, and with texture or visual interest of certain mixes.

Would be open to patterns but inclined towards a solid.

wsl or a textured linen seems right. What fabrics have you used that you like?

Fox Sport Juniper Green Basketweave

Fox Sport Juniper Green Basketweave WEIGHT: 290/320g or 10/11oz TYPE: Basketweave Jacketing The resort cloth; fitting for the golf courses of Miami to Mayfair fine dining. A colourful array of Hopsacks and Basketweave cloth, from ever classic Navy, understated Khaki green and to the more...

www.themerchantfox.co.uk

 

[camez_]

Smiths has a nice book, which includes a lot of mohair blends. Now that Lesser's book seems to have been retired, that may be the best option from that conglomerate.

Another option, if you are going to be pushing out the boat, is Escorial. They have an (expensive) 11oz barathea that is really lovely. Not terribly porous, but should hold through most seasons. Also, their fibers are allegedly really springy, so good at shedding wrinkles.

draper's has a dark green hopsack
it's great

 

[Concordia]

For a dinner suit?

 

[circumspice]

I like seersucker, but not sure in a jacket. Which did you have in mind?

Solbiati Zefiro Cotton - Hall Madden

http://hallmadden.com

hallmadden.smugmug.com

Solbiati has done one. I feel like I have seen it elsewhere, but I am striking out...