Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread

[Marshak]

Does anyone here have a recommendation or a go-to tailor to do CMT suits from a provided exemplar by mail? I do not have a local tailor I want to use but I have about five bolts of suiting I would like made up. Ideally I could send my favorite jacket by mail with the suiting and get back something similar.

Sartoria Pastena.

 

[xizenta]

Sartoria Pastena.

Thanks, I understand there is a trunk show in the US this month. Know anything about what it's like to meet at one?

 

[Marshak]

Thanks, I understand there is a trunk show in the US this month. Know anything about what it's like to meet at one?

Yes in Minneapolis. Ask @Wilson13 or @Jmr928 about details.

 

[tamimasa]

edited

 

[classicalthunde]

Anyone have any idea what this weave is? It looks and feels like oxford from afar but up close it appears to be something else.

Spoiler

View attachment 1810192
View attachment 1810194

Looks like a "barley corn" weave, which is usually found in tweeds as opposed to worsteds

https://www.richardandersonltd.com/the-new-barleycorn-bespoke-collection/

 

[classicalthunde]

Does anyone here have a recommendation or a go-to tailor to do CMT suits from a provided exemplar by mail? I do not have a local tailor I want to use but I have about five bolts of suiting I would like made up. Ideally I could send my favorite jacket by mail with the suiting and get back something similar.

I think Redmayne does a suit/jacket copying service...not quite sure if they combine that with CMT but it wouldnt hurt to ask

 

[Wilson13]

Yes in Minneapolis. Ask @Wilson13 or @Jmr928 about details.

@xizenta - I see @Jmr928 already provided some details in the other thread. I'm not an expert on trunk shows, but it is pretty typical - get measured (or in my case, a fitting), look through fabric books, etc. I would bring your best-fitting sample jacket and pants as well.

 

[bdavro23]

Does anyone here have a recommendation or a go-to tailor to do CMT suits from a provided exemplar by mail? I do not have a local tailor I want to use but I have about five bolts of suiting I would like made up. Ideally I could send my favorite jacket by mail with the suiting and get back something similar.

You could use a MTM company who uses fitting garments. Some of them even offer forward fittings or test garments so you get an idea of what the outcome will be like, albeit allowing for some tolerance for different cloths. I would go that route before having something copied, but I think there are a few guys here who have had decent results with copies, so YMMV.

Either way, I would definitely not send off all 5 bolts at once, but I assume you already know that. Best of luck and make sure to post pictures when you get your commisions back.

 

[xizenta]

Thanks everyone. Going to try your recommendation.

Question for all in this thread. What do you guys feel about suiting and jacketing material from undisclosed/unidentified mills? For example, if you bought something from a Yorkshire Fabrics or some other retailer and the only information available is the weight and the information at the edge of the fabric (Made in England, super 140s, whatever it may be).

Would you invest in making something from material with no known brandname? Or is that a dealbreaker?

 

[classicalthunde]

Thanks everyone. Going to try your recommendation.

Question for all in this thread. What do you guys feel about suiting and jacketing material from undisclosed/unidentified mills? For example, if you bought something from a Yorkshire Fabrics or some other retailer and the only information available is the weight and the information at the edge of the fabric (Made in England, super 140s, whatever it may be).

Would you invest in making something from material with no known brand name? Or is that a deal breaker?

I think it depends on two things:

1. how comfortable are you at evaluating quality cloth? if you've handled a bunch of different swatches and can compare a swatch of no-name vs. a well known reputable mill and feel that they're relatively comparable then I think it probably isnt a huge deal. although, the old adage...if you have to ask then it might not be the right choice for you

2. what percentage of the overall project is your cloth (or cloth savings going to be)? If you're buying a $3K bespoke jacket...does it really make sense to try and save $200-300 bucks? On the other hand if you do an off-shore MTM maker where the CMT cost is $1K per jacket and you need to source your own cloth then a $300 savings could be a solid percentage IF you know what your doing when it comes to procuring your own cloth.

 

[circumspice]

Thanks everyone. Going to try your recommendation.

Question for all in this thread. What do you guys feel about suiting and jacketing material from undisclosed/unidentified mills? For example, if you bought something from a Yorkshire Fabrics or some other retailer and the only information available is the weight and the information at the edge of the fabric (Made in England, super 140s, whatever it may be).

Would you invest in making something from material with no known brandname? Or is that a dealbreaker?

View attachment 1760718

This fabric is sourced from Yorkshire Fabrics. My thinking was:

Tweeds are tweeds - this feels like one.
I really, really liked the colorway - ecru, not white, dark charcoal not black and the orange overcheck. It is subtle, but I think the base pattern would be harsher if it were truly black + white.

What I probably wouldn't source from a jobber/grey market is some basic navy suiting - something where you have a near infinite array of other options from known provenance.

 

[ckessani]

I have a suit length of fox city iron grey that I no longer plan on funding. If anyone is interested pm, ill be listing it in the classifieds once I figure out where its supposed to go.

 

[camez_]

I have a suit length of fox city iron grey that I no longer plan on funding. If anyone is interested pm, ill be listing it in the classifieds once I figure out where its supposed to go.

shoot me a pm with your asking price

 

[TweedyProf]

Folks, can I get cloth suggestions for a tuxedo? Mill, etc..

 

[Sreezy36]

Folks, can I get cloth suggestions for a tuxedo? Mill, etc..

it might be helpful to list some information about how wish to use the dinner jacket.

For example: climate (tropical vs 4 seasons), season(spring/summer vs fall/winter), and formality(casual vs formal).

This may help to narrow down your potential recommendations as there are an array of cloth options.