Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread

[SimonC]

If Mahon / Hitchcock / Steed are the go-to independents for a drape cut, who are the British independents who are the spiritual successors of Huntsman / a structured military-inspired cut?

 

[classicalthunde]

If Mahon / Hitchcock / Steed are the go-to independents for a drape cut, who are the British independents who are the spiritual successors of Huntsman / a structured military-inspired cut?

Richard Anderson and Terry Haste (of Kent & Haste) both used to be head cutters at Huntsman and do a very similar structured cut

 

[Sreezy36]

I like to get suits in more "casual" fabrics made with patch pockets, so there's that separate sport coat option.

Same here. That is the value that I see in casual cloth combined with neopolitian tailoring. A relaxed casual jacket/suit that can be worn in a multitude of ways. Worn with or without a tie and paired with jeans, chinos, worsteds, and flannel. So much versatility and value in those types of garments. Especially in todays “dressed down” world. In contrast, I wouldn’t wear a more structured type of tailoring(drape cut included) in the same manner. Even if the cloth is of the rustic/casual type.

 

[Mr. Six]

Saw that one when Solito was in town and liked it a lot. If you only do one jacket, my vote is for this fabric.

The fit is … no comment, but the fabric made up pretty nice

 

[Carl@]

Dear Fabric Guru’s,

I wonder if anyone got a recommendation for an off white fabric? What I’ve noticed so far is that off white fabrics come usually in cottons, linens and flannel fabrics.

Is there anything like a high twist fabric in off white?

 

[classicalthunde]

Dear Fabric Guru’s,

I wonder if anyone got a recommendation for an off white fabric? What I’ve noticed so far is that off white fabrics come usually in cottons, linens and flannel fabrics.

Is there anything like a high twist fabric in off white?

not quite what you’re asking for on both fronts, but

Fox Bros has an oatmeal basket weave:

Fox Sport Oatmeal Basketweave

Fox Sport Oatmeal Basketweave WEIGHT: 290/320g or 10/11oz TYPE: Basketweave Jacketing The resort cloth; fitting for the golf courses of Miami to Mayfair fine dining. A colourful array of Hopsacks and Basketweave cloth, from ever classic Navy, understated Khaki green and to the more vibrant...

www.themerchantfox.co.uk

Holland and Sherry has an white wool-mohair barathea:
https://apparel.hollandandsherry.com/en/fabric/use/suits/976018-black-tie-white-solid

 

[Carl@]

not quite what you’re asking for on both fronts, but

Fox Bros has an oatmeal basket weave:

Fox Sport Oatmeal Basketweave

Fox Sport Oatmeal Basketweave WEIGHT: 290/320g or 10/11oz TYPE: Basketweave Jacketing The resort cloth; fitting for the golf courses of Miami to Mayfair fine dining. A colourful array of Hopsacks and Basketweave cloth, from ever classic Navy, understated Khaki green and to the more vibrant...

www.themerchantfox.co.uk

Holland and Sherry has an white wool-mohair barathea:
https://apparel.hollandandsherry.com/en/fabric/use/suits/976018-black-tie-white-solid

Thank you @classicalthunde. I’m looking for a cloth for a trouser in summer. Cotton and linen wrinkle too much. Don’t like that messy look on trousers.

 

[Concordia]

Years ago, I had a pair made from white barathea that is probably quite a bit more off-white than it used to be. I can't remember who sold the cloth, although that situation has almost certainly changed by now. Smith's Formal Wear bunch might be a place to look. Dugdale also has a few options.

 

[MrChris]

Gents, welcoming tips for the following;

1. Mid-grey woolen flannel suiting, around 350-400 grams (aside from the obvious ones i.e. Fox, VBC etc.)

2. Navy wool (hopsack or similar) for a sports coat, around 300-350 grams, hard wearing/ solid wrinkle resistance.

Many thanks

 

[brax]

Gents, welcoming tips for the following;

1. Mid-grey woolen flannel suiting, around 330 grams (aside from the obvious ones i.e. Fox, VBC etc.)

2. Navy wool (hopsack or similar) for a sports coat, around 300-330 grams, hard wearing/ solid wrinkle resistance.

Many thanks

2. What about one of the heavier mock lenos? You can go a bit heavier as the jacketing has such an open weave.

 

[MrChris]

2. What about one of the heavier mock lenos? You can go a bit heavier as the jacketing has such an open weave.

Thanks for the suggestion, may certainly be an alternative.
I’m intending for this SC to be my “go-to” and fairly formal, I notice some mock lenos have a too significant and casual appearance for my liking.

 

[brax]

Thanks for the suggestion, may certainly be an alternative.
I’m intending for this SC to be my “go-to” and fairly formal, I notice some mock lenos have a too significant and casual appearance for my liking.

Absolutely. Mock Leno is casual and thus makes up as a great blazer or informal jacket. But look elsewhere if you seek more formality. I have one in mind but can’t remember the name. As I used it when I had Steed do the Vox Swiss Army Suit for me, I’ll check my records tomorrow.

 

[JHWilliams]

2. What about one of the heavier mock lenos? You can go a bit heavier as the jacketing has such an open weave.

what about spring ram from Harrison’s for the blazer ?

 

[JHWilliams]

Gents, welcoming tips for the following;

1. Mid-grey woolen flannel suiting, around 330 grams (aside from the obvious ones i.e. Fox, VBC etc.)

2. Navy wool (hopsack or similar) for a sports coat, around 300-330 grams, hard wearing/ solid wrinkle resistance.

Many thanks

if you are looking for light weight flannel, it definitely won’t be hard wearing.

 

[Noirkw]

Dear Fabric Guru’s,

I wonder if anyone got a recommendation for an off white fabric? What I’ve noticed so far is that off white fabrics come usually in cottons, linens and flannel fabrics.

Is there anything like a high twist fabric in off white?

1. Fresco in Light Stone - 510222

2. Drapers Ascot 4 ply in Cream - 18049

3. Dugdale's NFW - 8965

8965 | New Fine Worsted From Dugdale Bros & Co | Cloth Merchants, High

Buy 8965 from Dugdale Bros & Co | cloth merchants, high quality cloth to the finest tailors.

shop.dugdalebros.com