Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread

[FlowableFill]

Nice. I've been eyeing that fabric for a while.

 

[JohnMRobie]

Nice. I've been eyeing that fabric for a while.

It has been at the top of my list. I did end up looking at at maybe 5 or 6 navy seersuckers total in cotton, wool, blends and really wanted a less expensive option to work since the Mare bunch isn’t inexpensive but I’ve gotta say there was just nothing else like it. I’m really excited to see how it turns out and is when it’s made up.

 

[FlowableFill]

I looked at this fabric as well as the loro piana you're using.

Grosgrain fabric for Suit by Vitale Barberis Canonico - 30053

Worsted blue fabric (cod. 30053) from the Jackets and Solaire bunch. Buy now online on Drapers Italy and create your made to measure suit.

drapersitaly.it

I liked the texture of the LP fabric more. Just have to fund the project now. It's next on my list.

 

[Markus W]

Is there a functional reason as to why makers will leave the shoulder basting in when shipping to a customer? I’ve had one jacket with and another without on more than one occasion by more than one maker. More curious than anything.

It´s for show as a sign how well made the garment is and only highly skilled artists can do something like that...
And maybe for some online retailers to prevent the dreadful "I need it once for an event and then return it" customer from ordering.

The manufacturer I´m working with let´s you choose if you want basting or not. I never order it with basting. It just bugs me to remove it.

 

[Mr. Six]

View attachment 1792254

Saw that one when Solito was in town and liked it a lot. If you only do one jacket, my vote is for this fabric.

 

[classicalthunde]

Saw that one when Solito was in town and liked it a lot. If you only do one jacket, my vote is for this fabric.

190g seems crazy light!

 

[Mr. Six]

190g seems crazy light!

The swatch felt substantial enough, but yeah, that's really light!

 

[JohnMRobie]

190g seems crazy light!

The Caccioppoli he linked to is 290G. The LP seersucker is 190 - There's really nothing else like it and the others were all between 260-300 or so.

 

[JHWilliams]

I looked into it. Nice cut, but looks less draped than Steed, and especially old A&S.

This is about as full Scholte drape as you can get. One of my fittings with Steven Hitchcock. A 720 gram estate tweed and lady sanfelice Drapers flannel

 

[Sreezy36]

This is about as full Scholte drape as you can get. One of my fittings with Steven Hitchcock. A 720 gram estate tweed and lady sanfelice Drapers flannel

those coats look like they will be extremely soft and comfortable. Lots of drape.

what cloth did you use for the chalk stripe?

 

[JHWilliams]

those coats look like they will be extremely soft and comfortable. Lots of drape.

what cloth did you use for the chalk stripe?

Drapers Lady SanFelice VBC woolen flannel.

I also commissioned this Minnis Grey Flannel. I love them both.

Steven also was fortunate to get his hands on the 250th anniversary new Fox Flannel Bunch. 10 percent cashmere 90 percent merino. I couldn’t resist. I ordered a two piece medium grey flannel from this exquisite bunch.

 

[JHWilliams]

As far as I am concerned, Mistral is a jacketing cloth. Weave is prominent and loose. Not so great for pants. The Bateman ones are of similar weave or finer?

Your run of Minnis Rangoon POW in the hands of Steven Hitchcock. Buggy lined double breasted. I’m shocked at how well it drapes for the weight.

 

[bernoulli]

All great choices. September in North Italy is a crapshoot. May be around 30oC or below 20oC. If you want to consider lightweight fabrics, Fresco by Hardy Minnis offers some beautiful navy options, from mock lenos to textured and plain fabrics: https://shop.hfwltd.com/collection/55

Scratchy as hell but I enjoy it. Not for everybody.
https://shop.hfwltd.com/media/pieces/510244.jpg

a couple of fabric books recommendations, all are mid-weight:

Holland and Sherry - Cape Horn
Smith Woollens - Finmeresco (high twist)
Smith Wollens - Botany
Harrisons - Oyster

Drapers - Ascot (high twist, has some crossover with Finmeresco)
Drapers - Five Stars
VBC - 110s Perennial
Fox Bros - Fox City

 

[SimonC]

The Caccioppoli he linked to is 290G. The LP seersucker is 190 - There's really nothing else like it and the others were all between 260-300 or so.

My recall is that LP measure and quote their fabric weights differently to everyone else; it may not actually be 190g per running metre.

 

[kid1002]

I have this pair of trousers made of Groves & Lindley calvary twill. To be quite honest I'm not 100% satisfied as it is quite bouncy and not what I was expecting. Is this a consistent quality across all calvary twills?