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Easily Amused

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Seam ripper (and patience) it is.

Didn’t know if there was a secret like snip at one end and the rest just pulls out

I think it may depend on how the basting and where the basting is tied. For some of my jackets, I just need one or two snips, and the thread removes on either end. For others, one end just disappears under the fabric after I've cut most of the length.
 

Megakurth

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I think it may depend on how the basting and where the basting is tied. For some of my jackets, I just need one or two snips, and the thread removes on either end. For others, one end just disappears under the fabric after I've cut most of the length.
Is there a functional reason as to why makers will leave the shoulder basting in when shipping to a customer? I’ve had one jacket with and another without on more than one occasion by more than one maker. More curious than anything.
 

Easily Amused

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Is there a functional reason as to why makers will leave the shoulder basting in when shipping to a customer? I’ve had one jacket with and another without on more than one occasion by more than one maker. More curious than anything.
My guess - maybe some notion about "authenticity" (whatever that may mean). Perhaps it's about - to quote a polarizing figure here - "quality, craftsmanship, and tradition..."
 
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JohnMRobie

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The next wave of projects to get done.

Funded this one as a suit and am super pumped.
E8884C95-9122-4BE7-8885-A431B6010C85.jpeg

Debating this 4-ply as a suit
7C050046-8A4F-4454-8E13-0AAD71EC3A3A.jpeg

And am debating which of these to do as a jacket or just saying F it and getting both. I love the depth of the colors on the Maison Hellard but wonder if the caccioppoli is the more versatile of the two. I rarely wear sport coats other than my navy hopsack and stick to suits so that isn’t terribly concerning but getting “enough” wear out of would be nice.
2EB64A5A-679B-47AC-8E75-2199B810510E.jpeg
E8704CBD-FB35-4002-A7E7-F67C341C7381.jpeg
 

taxgenius

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Slightly off topic question.

Just received an MTM commission. (Sartoria Carrara via NMWA) and the piece has the shoulder basting threads still in. Is there an easy method of removal of these shoulder seam basting threads?

Did you supply your own cloth?
 

garigo

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I've been invited to a wedding in northern Italy in September, and I am planning to commission my first navy suit from Jean Manuel Moreau in Paris. Ideally I would like something in a mid-weight fabric that I can wear for most occasions, except in the warmest and coldest days of the year. What are some recommendations for this purpose?
 

JohnMRobie

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I've been invited to a wedding in northern Italy in September, and I am planning to commission my first navy suit from Jean Manuel Moreau in Paris. Ideally I would like something in a mid-weight fabric that I can wear for most occasions, except in the warmest and coldest days of the year. What are some recommendations for this purpose?
Drapers 4-ply. Specifically 18060 in the Ascot bunch.
 

classicalthunde

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I've been invited to a wedding in northern Italy in September, and I am planning to commission my first navy suit from Jean Manuel Moreau in Paris. Ideally I would like something in a mid-weight fabric that I can wear for most occasions, except in the warmest and coldest days of the year. What are some recommendations for this purpose?

a couple of fabric books recommendations, all are mid-weight:

Holland and Sherry - Cape Horn
Smith Woollens - Finmeresco (high twist)
Smith Wollens - Botany
Harrisons - Oyster

Drapers - Ascot (high twist, has some crossover with Finmeresco)
Drapers - Five Stars
VBC - 110s Perennial
Fox Bros - Fox City
 

Noirkw

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Slightly off topic question.

Just received an MTM commission. (Sartoria Carrara via NMWA) and the piece has the shoulder basting threads still in. Is there an easy method of removal of these shoulder seam basting threads?

Any pics of the commission? I'm looking to try 1 as well
 

garigo

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Drapers 4-ply. Specifically 18060 in the Ascot bunch.
a couple of fabric books recommendations, all are mid-weight:

Holland and Sherry - Cape Horn
Smith Woollens - Finmeresco (high twist)
Smith Wollens - Botany
Harrisons - Oyster

Drapers - Ascot (high twist, has some crossover with Finmeresco)
Drapers - Five Stars
VBC - 110s Perennial
Fox Bros - Fox City
Thanks a lot, those sound like great recommendations! Of course I'll also listen to what JMM suggests, but that Drapers reference in particular seems really interesting.
 

classicalthunde

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Thanks a lot, those sound like great recommendations! Of course I'll also listen to what JMM suggests, but that Drapers reference in particular seems really interesting.

Drapers stuff is great, have a suit in the 5-star and 2-pairs of trousers in the 4-ply Ascot

Also have a suit in the Finmeresco 4-ply too

If they have both books (Ascot and Finmeresco), do a side by side of the navy shades you are interested in...I'm of the strong opinion that they are virtually identical but have a slightly different price point
 

FlowableFill

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The next wave of projects to get done.

Funded this one as a suit and am super pumped.
View attachment 1792251
Debating this 4-ply as a suit
View attachment 1792252
And am debating which of these to do as a jacket or just saying F it and getting both. I love the depth of the colors on the Maison Hellard but wonder if the caccioppoli is the more versatile of the two. I rarely wear sport coats other than my navy hopsack and stick to suits so that isn’t terribly concerning but getting “enough” wear out of would be nice.
View attachment 1792253 View attachment 1792254
What's the configuration on the seersucker suit?
 

JohnMRobie

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What's the configuration on the seersucker suit?
Neapolitan maker, 1/4 lined, 3R2, spalla, barchetta, patch pockets, 10.5cm lapels, 3B on sleeve, navy MOP buttons, slightly lower gorge and slightly more open quarters. 1 reverse pleat with side adjusters and cut for braces, 4.5cm turn ups, 20cm leg opening for trousers.
 

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