Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread

[bjhofkin]

Buggy lined, self lined, zero lining or moste (Neapolitan tailor-speak dialect). Typically used on summer garments.

See I thought buggy lining only applies when you're talking about *lining material*.

What I'm talking about here is basically another whole layer of the same cloth that makes up the outer part of the coat being used for the lining – thereby making the coat *heavier* rather than lighter (as with normal buggy lining).

Like, that raglan overcoat is SUPER heavy because the cloth is essentially doubled up for much of the body of the coat.

 

[zr3rs]

See I thought buggy lining only applies when you're talking about *lining material*.

What I'm talking about here is basically another whole layer of the same cloth that makes up the outer part of the coat being used for the lining – thereby making the coat *heavier* rather than lighter (as with normal buggy lining).

Like, that raglan overcoat is SUPER heavy because the cloth is essentially doubled up for much of the body of the coat.

It is actually not that much heavier, because most of the inside material would also be there in a lined garment, except the part behind the inside pockets. Typically, the inside facing extends to the middle of the inside pockets. With the heavy cloth, you can also reduce the padding over the breast canvas.
However, many do this style also for the beauty of it, because it is much more work for the tailor to neatly finish all the seams.

 

[bjhofkin]

It is actually not that much heavier, because most of the inside material would also be there in a lined garment, except the part behind the inside pockets. Typically, the inside facing extends to the middle of the inside pockets. With the heavy cloth, you can also reduce the padding over the breast canvas.
However, many do this style also for the beauty of it, because it is much more work for the tailor to neatly finish all the seams.

Thank you – very helpful.

 

[bdavro23]

This might not be the best thread for this question, but what is it called when the cloth facings sort of extend to become the lining itself, as in these photos?

View attachment 1744799

View attachment 1744800

And what are the pros cons of that method – specifically regarding overcoats? Could it be a way to make a heavier/warmer coat out of an otherwise lighter cloth?

There is usually only that much self facing on unlined garments. A less aggressive version of this that is usually lined would just have the cloth extend into where the pockets are placed. Thats sometimes called French facing.

 

[Sreezy36]

Random question for all of the cloth enthusiast in the USA and abroad…

In regards to wearing tailored clothing, what is your favorite city/cities/metropolitan area(s)?

Furthermore, what city/metro do you feel has the most ideal climate that enables one to take full advantage of a seasonally diverse wardrobe?

 

[bjhofkin]

Random question for all of the cloth enthusiast in the USA and abroad…

In regards to wearing tailored clothing, what is your favorite city/cities/metropolitan area(s)? New York, and it's not even close. Lots of seasonality, lots of walking, lots of exciting places to go. People still dress up there. Can't even think of second place, frankly.

Furthermore, what city/metro do you feel has the most ideal climate that enables one to take full advantage of a seasonally diverse wardrobe? My home city of Minneapolis! Has all the extremes a person could ever want…?

 

[lordsuperb]

Random question for all of the cloth enthusiast in the USA and abroad…

In regards to wearing tailored clothing, what is your favorite city/cities/metropolitan area(s)?

Furthermore, what city/metro do you feel has the most ideal climate that enables one to take full advantage of a seasonally diverse wardrobe?

I like dressing up when visiting Charleston, SC and New York. Also take a sports coat with me when traveling abroad.

Residents here in DC don't have an appreciation for dress but the weather is perfect for wearing tailored clothing 3 seasons out of the year. Once the summer hits tailored clothing becomes unbearable.

 

[tamimasa]

Thoughts on the fabric? Wool/silk/linen blend if the memory serves me right.

 

[wafflingwaffles]

Thinking of getting a 379 gram (13.36oz) linen for a sportcoat. I love my thick linens, all my jackets are 340-350g linens (some Irish linen 340gs seem sturdier and thicker than 350g ones).

Anyone have experience with such a thick linen? Any concerns? Thanks.

 

[dieworkwear]

Thinking of getting a 379 gram (13.36oz) linen for a sportcoat. I love my thick linens, all my jackets are 340-350g linens (some Irish linen 340gs seem sturdier and thicker than 350g ones).

Anyone have experience with such a thick linen? Any concerns? Thanks.

I have a suit made from W BIll Irish linen (380gm). I like it. Not sure if there's anything to say about it besides that it rumples more than it wrinkles and its' more densely woven than the Italian linen stuff. I like the suit so much that I'm currently getting another W BIll linen suit in a different color.

View attachment 1745248

Thoughts on the fabric? Wool/silk/linen blend if the memory serves me right.

I find that blue fabrics with a hint of purple are hard to wear. I would choose a different fabric.

 

[wafflingwaffles]

I have a suit made from W BIll Irish linen (380gm). I like it. Not sure if there's anything to say about it besides that it rumples more than it wrinkles and its' more densely woven than the Italian linen stuff. I like the suit so much that I'm currently getting another W BIll linen suit in a different color.

Thanks, Derek. That sounds fantastic. I assume that the weight never feels too overbearing/too much? (I'd assume not, since it's just a 10% difference compared to a 350g linen...)

 

[dieworkwear]

Thanks, Derek. That sounds fantastic. I assume that the weight never feels too overbearing/too much? (I'd assume not, since it's just a 10% difference compared to a 350g linen...)

I can't imagine someone noticing a difference in 30 grams. If you're OK with 350g linen, I assume you should be fine in 380g.

 

[UrbanComposition]

Hey forumites, wondering if any one has 4m of Derek’s summer tweed they’re willing to part with? If so DM me ☺️

 

[UrbanComposition]

Can anyone recommend a cotton or cotton linen blend cloth for white or ivory trousers that isn't see through?

How does the Brisbane Moss 10oz perform?

Should I stick to denim for this part of my wardrobe?

I purchased this one from Sultans Fine Fabrics and although it doesn’t keep a crease much didn’t seem as heavy as it weighs (15oz). Pretty bretheable and not very see through.

 

[Sreezy36]

Does anyone have any recommendations for a heavy weight(13oz+) serge? The only serge in that weight that I have found so far are from H&S Gostwyck Trilogy and Bateman and Ogden Apollo.
Although I like the samples of Apollo and Gostwyck Trilogy, I am curious of other options.